Taking out A/c and A/c plumbing

[Spector5]

Was wondering if there is anything I need to block off? The compressor and rubber hoses are coming out, however, before I get to carried away. I noticed that the A/c lines bolt into the backside of the block! So is that something that will need to be blocked off or can I just pull the lines? I can't get close enough to look to see whats left exposed if I did leave it open!

 

[95TalonOwner]

Not sure about the line bolting to the block, but you will need a spacer if you remove the a/c compressor and belt tensioner because the belt tensioner acts as a spacer for the intermediate shaft bearing on awd's.

 

[Spector5]

Alrighty, I'll have to take a look at it. Is that something I should be able to easily fabricate up?

 

[bryanwheat]

Not sure about the line bolting to the block, but you will need a spacer if you remove the a/c compressor and belt tensioner because the belt tensioner acts as a spacer for the intermediate shaft bearing on awd's.

No, the tensioner has nothing to do with the intermediate shaft. The mount bracket on the other hand does.

 

[95TalonOwner]

No, the tensioner has nothing to do with the intermediate shaft. The mount bracket on the other hand does.

Ahh yes my mistake, the mounting bracket for the a/c compressor.

 

[Spector5]

No, the tensioner has nothing to do with the intermediate shaft. The mount bracket on the other hand does.

So with that said, I should beable to remove the compressed but just leave the bracket alone? Also, should I be clear to cut the compressor belt? Or does the belt run or operate other parts? Sprry I ask but my cars in another town over so I pretty much have to ask the obvious questions because I'm not able to just go out to the car and look!

 

[97gsxIA]

You're clear to cut it. I recommend having a "Take no prisoners" attitude when it comes to ripping this pig out. its a real PITA.

Remember to have the A/c system drained prior to taking it out, Or do what most people do and just snip a line or loosen a bolt and let the gases leak out. DONT BREATHE them... I did the cut then duck-and-cover method.

Just follow the lines and remove everything thats associated with the A/c

Leave the bracket on the block

 

[Spector5]

You're clear to cut it. I recommend having a "Take no prisoners" attitude when it comes to ripping this pig out. its a real PITA.

Remember to have the A/c system drained prior to taking it out, Or do what most people do and just snip a line or loosen a bolt and let the gases leak out. DONT BREATHE them... I did the cut then duck-and-cover method.

Just follow the lines and remove everything thats associated with the A/c

Leave the bracket on the block

Thanks! System should already be drained. I had to pull part of a a/c line to fit my fmic piping, so I had to also pull the a/c fan. Will this cause overheating issues in the future or is the fan strictly for the a/c alone?

 

[mattasi]

You don't need the A/C fan hooked up and working. The car shouldn't overheat without the A/C fan. I drove around with out that fan for like a year...With that said, I took out my A/C fan and put a SPAL fan in there and connected it to a relay and then into a switch inside the car. So after the car gets to full temp, I just flip the switch and forget about it untill I get out of the car and turn it off.

 

[97gsxIA]

Removing the a/c should actually benefit the cooling of your motor with or without the A/C fan. fans are always good to get air running through the rad, but the a/c fan only turns on when you have defrost/a/c running so whats the point, really? Shit, I almost removed the a/c fan before i deleted the a/c just because my jpipe/LICP doesnt it like it being there (because I'm the idiot who bought the jpipe that's angled towards the exhaust mani/drivers side.)

 

[bryanwheat]

On a 1g i would leave the rad fan because you can turn it on manually with the ac button. If it ever starts to warm up that extra fan will help out a lot.

 

[gusu]

The whole coolant being bad to breath is total BS. I know A LOT of people who work in appliance repair who vent that shit to the atmosphere all the time and after 35+ years of them doing it are perfectly healthy even at 65-70 years of age. That is both R-12 and R-134a.

The ONLY thing you need to be worried about is R-12 when you combust it the result is Phosgene. Which is terrible byproduct that was used during World War II as a chemical weapon.

Another reason for the push for R-134a was it was cheaper for large corporations to produce so there was a little political motivation from a few large corporations to help it along in the direction it took.

The crap you read about the chlorine in R-12 depleting the atmosphere has a lot more research that shows it to be false than true but you have a hard time getting that information here in the United States.
So if you vent it, don't be retarded and keep flames away from it. Unless you are suicidal and want to leave your family a fat check from a "accidental" death insurance claim.

The research that got R-12 banned was by a guy who later came around saying he was wrong, but it did not matter because this was during the time of "Let's scare the crap out of people by telling them about global warming with a document we got by having 2500 random people (some of which sued to get their name removed) with mostly medical degrees and no relevant research to sign" phase.

R-12 however is very heavy and if in a small space with you below the gas.... like you venting it while laying on the floor. It can suffocate you if you are stupid enough to choose to sit there long enough because it is pushing all of the oxygen away from the area you are dumb enough to stay in.

 

[97gsxIA]

I'm not one for breathing foreign gasses anyhow, I'm sure you could say that its bubble mint flavored and I'd still back away from the gases after i leak it out of a line