Takes forever to start

[Burntz]

Like the title says, car takes FOREVER to get running. From searching, I've come up with the coolant temp sensor as a probable culprit? It never did this before, then I fix the timing and get all new belts on, and its a PITA to start now. It does warm up SUPER fast though. As in, I drove it a block to the gas station with it being completely cold, and it was at warm operating temperature. It doesn't overheat though.

2nd Issue: Car will randomly misfire between 2-3 if I hold it steady. I put a new TPS on, is calibrating it essential?

Also, the car will boost when I free rev it in P or N, but won't boost under load? It just feels like it won't go over 3k rpm, one time it kinda randomly jumped to 4 then jumped back down under 3. Boost leak test the car? The boost gauge never reads, not even when it obviously boosts while free revving.

Anddd the auto is slipping/catching/slipping/catching in reverse, and shifted even when I had it in L. What the fk?

 

[kneipperk]

#1 have you tried using any starter fluid to start it? when my ect sensor went out i had to use a can of throttlebody cleaner to get it started every morning. when you car is warm up to operating temp if you shut it off will it start right up again?

#2 the throttle position sensor should be adjusted!!!!


#3 i dont know whats up with the tranny, sorry dude


oh yeah, boost leak test!

 

[Burntz]

Yes once its been started it will start right back up. Ill have to grab some starter fluid, thanks

 

[1fast97gsx]

It sounds to me like you may need to check your timing if you had your belt off / replaced. ECT is a possibility but if that's the case you would probably get a CEL. ECT is easy to test. TPS DOES need to be adjusted.

 

[Burntz]

Every belt is new, and properly timed and tensioned. It runs good, just takes forever to get it to start.

 

[DeadsEvolution1]

The no reving past 3k and 4k rpms is usually a CAS set improperly or not functioning correctly. The Cas controls fuel, spark, and the actuation of the fuel injectors. So test out your CAS. The Coolant temp sensor could be the problem too but since you said about the reving issue and what not I would lean more towards the CAS. Also since you did redo your timing the base timing needs to be set with a timing light so be sure to do that.

 

[tscook3]

Check the CAS. Good luck figuring it out.

 

[moi1463]

For youre starting problem, the most logical thing i can think of is the fuel pump, because it will be hard to start if the pump is going out. It's easy to restart because once the fuel pump finally kicks in, the fuel pressure is already there, therefore it will fire right back up, but if you let it sit for a while and let the fuel pressure drop( like over night) then that happens. But that is only one of many things it could be. One way i used to test the fuel pump is that have someone crank it and hit the fuel tank with a rod, stick of some sort in the general area of the pump, if it starts right up after a few smacks, then it is. Remember not to hit it too hard and damage something else. GL

 

[DeadsEvolution1]

I have to say that it's not always a fuel pump issue. I have a brand new Walbro fuel pump in my car and it was hard to start until I got a new CAS than I have no problems

 

[talon913]

sounds like a coolent temp sensor my old laser used to do the same.especially in the winter morning i had to pump the gas while it tried to start then hold it for a sec for it to idle i changed my coolent temp sensor and it fixed the problem

 

[Burntz]

It doesn't have a CAS, as its a 96. I changed the cam position sensor while re-doing the timing belt. When doing initial testing before I got it running, we tested the pump, and it was getting proper voltage, and supplying fuel fine. The car used to start up fine, then I get it running right (balance shaft belt shredded), and now its hard to start, but runs fine (basically) once its started .

The weather here is cold, and my garage has no electricity, so I've barely been working on it . In the middle of changing the rear pads (btw, screw in pistons or press in? I thought screw in..), but Ill pull the TB and calibrate the TPS and replace the CTS and see what I find out