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SUPER UPGRADE....2 problems.

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dr1ftx3

15+ Year Contributor
398
3
Jul 4, 2005
Hoffman Estates, Illinois
Hey guys I just got these parts installed in my car today:

190lph walbro
580cc injectors
AEM wideband
SAFC II
Apex turbo timer
Ported e3 16g
Evo mani
big fmic

And the car was fully tuned by Devo Tuning, who currently holds the record for fastest evo.

My 2 questions are. Why does it take 3-4 turns for my car to start as opposed to the barely even one turn before the upgrade. And why is my car dying out after I'm under full boost and let the rpms drop. (Yes my bov is recirculated) Any help is appreciated. -Pete
 
dr1ftx3 said:
Hey guys I just got these parts installed in my car today:
My 2 questions are. Why does it take 3-4 turns for my car to start as opposed to the barely even one turn before the upgrade. And why is my car dying out after I'm under full boost and let the rpms drop. (Yes my bov is recirculated) Any help is appreciated. -Pete

For some reason, the aftermarket fuel pressure regulators don't hold pressure in the fuel rail after the car has been shut off for a few minutes. One way to solve this is to wire your fuel pump relay to a 12V ignition source, such as the fuel pump check connector on the firewall (what I did). As for the stalling problem, your base fuel pressure could be off, but that's just one idea. If you have a gage on your regulator it's very easy to set.

-Don
 
Wow, sorry, I misread your mod list. I'm not sure if a 190 on stock wiring would cause your problems or not. You don't have any leaks in your fuel system, do you? When I swapped my fuel pump I had a hell of a time getting the fitting underneath the car to seal up well. Just another thought.
 
dr1ftx3 said:
I'm almost positive I have no leaks because my car ran perfectly fine for a year before I got upgraded.

In your initial post you mentioned that you recently upgraded to a 190lph fuel pump and larger injectors. When installing those you broke apart the fuel system in multiple locations, which is why I suggested checking for leaks. Because the car was tuned by a reputable shop, I doubt your problem has to do with your AFC settings, but I would recommend doing a boost leak test if you haven't already.
 
I'd recommend an aftermarket afpr even with a 190 pump. I know plenty of people running 190 pumps on stock fpr's, but i've also seen stock fpr's overrun by a 190 pump. The bogging down you are describing would be consistant with a build up of fuel pressure after rippin on it, and the stock fpr not being able to let enough fuel through the return fast enough, which would cause rich conditions, which wouild cause the brief bogging you describe. My advice: try an afpr
 
So i'm basically an idiot for buying a 190? I figured I'd save some money by getting the 190 because most people say a afpr isn't necesarry with it. So I really should have just gotten a 255 in the first place? But you are totally right, I am running a little on the rich side and it is bogging down soooooo could I solve it by getting the afpr and sticking with the 190?
 
possibly. You could always get a filter mount fuel pressure gauge, and change your fuel filter while you're at it. Thats a little cheaper than buying a fpr, and it will give you an idea of if you need one or not. But it's never a bad idea to have a good fpr.
 
I have an aeromotive fpr (set 43.5psi) and my car will do the same thing when letting the rpms drop. I can't let the car out of gear if the rpms are above 2200 or it will stall and die.
 
Interesting, so you have an afpr and you still bog down...Well it seems like I can prevent the car from stalling out if I tap the gas a little while the rpms drop down. A little inconvenient but I might as well just live with it. Any ideas why the car doesn't start up right away? Could it be because I have like a whole bunch of stuff hooked to my battery? Headunit,600 watt amp+sub,wideband and boost gauges,turbo timer,safc....Any way to boost my battery power? (silly question)
 
I dont know about all the stuff being hooked up to the battery causing it to take forever because my 94 1.8 was fine when I had alot hooked up to it but i has a similar problem with the kill out when its cold. About the "Battery Boost" there is nothing you can do for that but make sure you have no dead cells and that the battery fluid is where its supposed to be or buy a new battery.
 
I see some people relating their startup issues to injectors. But my car was just tuned to 0 knock through every gear so I don't really want to mess with my fuel %'s. Starting to think I should just live with it.
 
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