Stuttering, not building boost, help identifying a part.

[JCHemenway]

Hello i have a 1998 eagle talon tsi FWD with a 6bolt swap and stock 14b turbo. some stuff on her is rigged a little but shes a work in progress and i bought her that way, only owned her for about 3 days now. When i bought the car i was told it was running at 15psi ( maxed the stock boost gauge out No problem) however when i hooked up a autometer gauge it was only reading at about 9psi max. When i drove her home she boosted fine and was very audible. Day 2 i got on her a little and on about the 4th pull i grabbed 1st then 2nd and on 3rd she fell on her nose and sputtered and wouldnt rev past 4k with boost. If i eased her and didnt build boost it was fine ( also only did this under a load and in neutral she was fine). Got home and was freaking out . Checked all the normal stuff, Shaft play, wastegate actuator was working, when i checked vacuum lines i found a line running from the Intake manifold to the back of the intake to a small sensor with a little nipple on it, looks like it should be bolted somewhere or onto something ( not with a hose just dangling on it) however since they were in the same area together and that hose wasnt hooked up i put it on the sensor. To my suprise i was able to boost to max and seemed to run fine until i gave her WOT, Then she sputtered and wouldnt go past whatever RPM it was at when it started sputtering. I am now not building boost as much or as fast. only around 6psi. What happened? Also might add that now i hear what sounds like air fluttering back out of the breather, The BOV is doing its job to some extent because thats still pretty audible. I am thinking maybe Boost leak? The only other thing i feel i should add is that i hooked up my A/F and says im running lean, never anything else just lean. I hooked it up correctly i think . I ran the wires to pin 76 on the ecu which is what the tutorial said. Im going to post some pictures and please if you see anything wrong say what you want about it not my any of my handy work. i just want my car to run right.

 

[JCHemenway]

Here are the pics sorry I had to create a reply message to add them. My phone wouldn't let me edit my post

 

[Cornfed4G64]

did you check all the couplers to the intercooler? Did you hear a pop right before the sputtering accured? Id check couplers but odds are you have a sognificant boost leak!

*** edit after seeing pics

RECIRC YOUR BOV! That can cause a ton of issues and probablty the fluttering sound you were hearing. Your car is gonna perform way better with it recirc. So do that first then report back

 

[knochgoon24]

That sensor is the MDP sensor. It is to check to see if the EGR is working properly. It normally mounts to the top of the manifold, but since you have a 6-bolt swap, you don't have that spot.

 

[JCHemenway]

The sputtering only occurs when there's high boost and im at wot..... The first time it happened however there were no sounds at all just got to about 5k and wouldnt go farther. Got home checked vacuum lines and found that one that was half way connected to that mdb sensor. Put it back on and now it runs OK except at wot. As for the BOV getting recirculated I'm in the works of getting dsm link so that shouldn't be an issue till then correct? What can I do with that sensor. Unplug it? Is it necessary.

 

[bryanwheat]

Dsmlink won't allow you to vent the bov unless you are running the v3 with a gm maf. Is the hole in the intake pipe even plugged where the bov recirc tube connects, it looks like it isn't. That will make the car run lean. Also you should do a boost leak test and check the spark plugs to see what plugs are in there. You can actually unplug the mdp sensor and not run it. The car will run fine.

 

[Cornfed4G64]

Replace your plugs and wires. Make sure to use NGK bpr6es and gap them to 26. Link will not correct the BOV problem youll need additional stuff like stated above

 

[JCHemenway]

Thanks alot for the fast replys. The hole on the Intake pipe for the BOV recirculation has a pop cap in it with epoxy (assume all the professionals do that ). The plugs in it are autolites and plug wires are bosch. I'm taking a trip to autozone today for both of these. I've heard to get ngk like 100 times are cars must love them. They work well in my dirtbikes and atvs. I will see if I have any boost leaks today. I'll also see if there are any stock bovs on craigslist or something in my area. Thanks alot for the info guys. I'll keep ya posted if anything works or I discover any additional problems.

 

[Cornfed4G64]

just be sure to get the NGK BPR6ES not the plugs that they suggest. Also the NGK wires will work fine to.

 

[bryanwheat]

Thanks alot for the fast replys. The hole on the Intake pipe for the BOV recirculation has a pop cap in it with epoxy (assume all the professionals do that ). The plugs in it are autolites and plug wires are bosch. I'm taking a trip to autozone today for both of these. I've heard to get ngk like 100 times are cars must love them. They work well in my dirtbikes and atvs. I will see if I have any boost leaks today. I'll also see if there are any stock bovs on craigslist or something in my area. Thanks alot for the info guys. I'll keep ya posted if anything works or I discover any additional problems.

A stock 2g bov will not work with that setup, they are junk anyways. Look for a 1g bov with the flange and have the flange welded to the pipe.

 

[Cmax907]

Extreme psi sells an adapter for that reason. its called a brake booster.

 

[JCHemenway]

Ok so i changed my Plugs and wires, Haven't checked for boost leaks yet because I dont have the money to buy the materials at the moment. Kinda trying to save for a wideband. Car definetley runs better now and dont sputter anymore. Im also trying to get a 1g BOV or get set up with a gm maf, also goin to be changing the Transmission Gear oil here in a few. I found the Fill plug for it but cant find the bottom 24mm drain Nut ( i looked everywhere).Thnx for all your Help i really apreciate it.

 

[98zx23369]

is that exhaust piping? and that j pipe looks sketchy

 

[JCHemenway]

Yeah thats what i thought when i seen it, definetly exhaust piping, but it has the proper bends and dont look half bad. I plan on going all aluminum piping in about a week anyhow. I figure getting rid of the pipes and clamps and silicon couplers that are on there and getting new properly fitted ones would be a good thing.

dumb question i know it sounds dumb but what pipe would be my j-pipe? I assume its in the shape of a J otherwise it should be called something else. Why sketchy?

 

[98zx23369]

the j pipe is the pipe that's bolted to the turbo, and it looks sketchy, could just be the picture.

 

[JCHemenway]

Ok so i got my Boost leak tester and Found i had a couple huge boost leaks. The system wouldnt even presurise. Got those big ones fixed but still have air leaking around My TB Like right where the 3 vacuum ports are, I assume its just a gasket but now after fixing the other ones i noticed that at higher rpms my Boost increases to about 15psi, it was running a solid 9 before so i guess them boost leaks made some huge improvements however is this a safe level to run my motor on. She is mechanicaly sound and is bone stock except for some gauges and FMIC and new manifold, Oh and i have my BOV recurculated now (i just got the adapter for the HKS type BOV i have).

 

[etay89]

Ok so i got my Boost leak tester and Found i had a couple huge boost leaks. The system wouldnt even presurise. Got those big ones fixed but still have air leaking around My TB Like right where the 3 vacuum ports are, I assume its just a gasket but now after fixing the other ones i noticed that at higher rpms my Boost increases to about 15psi, it was running a solid 9 before so i guess them boost leaks made some huge improvements however is this a safe level to run my motor on. She is mechanicaly sound and is bone stock except for some gauges and FMIC and new manifold, Oh and i have my BOV recurculated now (i just got the adapter for the HKS type BOV i have).

Good. As far as the throttle body is concerned, plug/cap off any holes first. If that doesn't fix it, then replace the gasket (if there is one).

Cornfed4g64, wouldn't NGK BPR7ES also work for the OP? Yeah, it's a step colder, but it shouldn't really matter though, right?

 

[CrawlinZX14]

those nipples your talking about leaking now are for the EGR system. If you do not have to pass emissions then pull the vac lines and cap them off. Makes it much easier. And get an egr block off plate if you go that route if its not already done. WTF is all over the top of your exhaust mani? Last time I saw white powder like that the mani was cracked. Unless charlie sheen was working on your car last, that doesnt look normal at all.

did you straiten out the lean condition? What you could be experiencing is knock at the WOT and its retarding timing to keep your engine from going BOOM. Thus the reason you feel like its falling flat on its face.

 

[JCHemenway]

Ive got the WOT situation taken care of with the Boost leaks. I assume i was just sucking in air all over the damn place and causing it to lose power at WOT. The leaks now though are not from the intake nipple but from where the TB connects to the intake ( i dont even know what that gasket would be called) basiclaly on the right side of my Throttle Butterfly. Its just spraying air out of that spot which unfortuanatly brings be to my next and newest problem . Ever Since i fixed the big boost leaks by my FMIC and discovered this new one by the TB my car wont start for shit. she will sputter then die, sputter then die, sputter then increase RPM then die, sputter increase rpm play with throttle and it trys to stay running then dies. Then i get lucky enough with my Throttle Timing/Foot response and get it up to about 4-5k revs and magically starts to even herself out. So long as she dont sit for more than 4hrs she will start fine everytime and runs/idles like a champ. I should add that when i bring the revs up to that range my lights and everything electrical will get bright and act normal, but before the hiogher revs they will be dim or windshield wipers for examlpe even on high would be slow. Can my TPS or mabye my alternator cause this. BTW thanks for all your guys help. I should also mention that when i get her magically started she is spraying whiteish blue smoke but only for about 4mins. compression test was fine and i dont think valve guide seals would make it not start at all.

 

[solson1041]

With the TB, you may have leaking shaft seals, I know it took me FOREVER to resolve that problem on my car. If gaskets don't solve it, know that the shaft of the butterfly must be sealed and they do go.

Just a heads up, cause I know I woulda appreciated it when it happened .

 

[1995 brian]

X2 with the wires and plugs ngk. And try to recirculate your bov. My car was doing the same thing like around 4th and 5th gear at high rpms just replaced the plugs to oem and some ngk wires and runs perfectly fine now.

 

[JCHemenway]

Not quite sure what to do about this boost leak i got at the TB. Its leaking right in the middle of the TB base gasket. I bought a new gasket and even put some Sealant on there and its still leaking. Is it possible my TB is warped or the base of the intake is warped? Its causing me some big issues, i cant pressurise the system for more than 10secs to 15psi with this leak.

 

[knochgoon24]

I normally don't use it there, but try some RTV.

You may also want to check both flanges with a straight edge to see if either is warped.

 

[Cornfed4G64]

Good. As far as the throttle body is concerned, plug/cap off any holes first. If that doesn't fix it, then replace the gasket (if there is one).

Cornfed4g64, wouldn't NGK BPR7ES also work for the OP? Yeah, it's a step colder, but it shouldn't really matter though, right?

BPR6es are fine for a stock setup. BPR7es would work to but I didn't switch to them untill I was above 350 awhp

 

[Str8Tune]

Take a metal straight edge and some feeler gauges pull your TB off and test to see if its warped.