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Stuttering/Misfiring

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tsunari

20+ Year Contributor
1,030
34
Feb 12, 2003
Jessup, Maryland
Couldn't really find much on my particular problem, so here goes:

Go out at lunch to run some erands (it's freaking cold outside), get in the car,
let her warm up a bit and start to drive off easy. Get about 1/4 mile
down the road and the engine starts to studder as if it's misfiring AND I get a CEL.

So I pull-over, pop the hood (still idling . . .) can't see anything that has disconnected
itself . . . so I shut the engine off and proceed to unplug & re-plug different connectors
(spark plug wires @ the coil pack, MAF plug, coil ignitor plug, etc . . .)

Start her back up and all is well (CEL is still on though . . . no worries, I'll check it when I get home . . .) drive for another 30-60 seconds and the studdering comes back. Pull over, shut off, wait 30 sec, restart. . . everything is fine (for the next 60 seconds or so).

So by this time I'm a bit aggravated and REALLY didn't want to, but decide to pull the negative side to the battery (lost the CEL code . . .), wait 30 seconds, hook everything back up and all is well!

Guess my question is W-T-F ? Any ideas? Wish I had my code reader in the car at the time . . .
 
There is no way around the misfire you are haveing unless you disable the (check for misfire) on your dsmlink. You have a 6-bolt swap and your useing a 2g ecu. It happened to me all the time but I just did the pot mod. Just set your dsm link up to not check for misfires and you'll be fine.Theres nothing else you can do.
 
Flybiyou said:
There is no way around the misfire you are haveing unless you disable the (check for misfire) on your dsmlink. You have a 6-bolt swap and your useing a 2g ecu. It happened to me all the time but I just did the pot mod. Just set your dsm link up to not check for misfires and you'll be fine.Theres nothing else you can do.

I'll give that a try, but it's just strange that I've been running for a little over 6months with the 6-bolt and now (perhaps because the weather is cold?) I've had it happen twice within the past month or two . . .

Coincidence? Or something in the setup has changed to induce random misfires . . . (or the apparent detection of misfires)?

I know clicking the check-box on dsmlink is the easy way out . . . but if we can test/figure out this problem, I'd much rather do that :D

THX for all of the ideas/responses- keep em comin'!
 
First, I would try cleaning it and replacing the O-ring. Ohm it out before you waste the $.29 on an o-ring though...
But yes. Sounds like your CAS is going bad.
 
ddavisaf said:
First, I would try cleaning it and replacing the O-ring. Ohm it out before you waste the $.29 on an o-ring though...
But yes. Sounds like your CAS is going bad.

Alright. . . will test out the CAS- there a VFAQ or HOWTO somewhere that details how to test out the CAS?

Once again- you ppl are great :D
 
ddavisaf said:
97... left side of the valve cover right?

if you are referring to the stock CAS? Yeah . . . it's over on the passenger side.
 
hum.. then it seems this post is leading towards CAS problem
but mine are just stock
all out stock 7bolt and stock everything except for UICP, Greddy BOV, ApexI intake filer
and HKS TT
where is the problems with mine?
I've already changed ingnition coil, plug wires, and spark plug,
but i do have leaking down pipe? could this be the problem?
 
Opps I thought you tested your CAS already sorry. Swap it out and you should be ok then if that dosent work we can start all over again.
 
Flybiyou said:
Opps I thought you tested your CAS already sorry. Swap it out and you should be ok then if that dosent work we can start all over again.


But my question remains . . . how do you test the CAS? I have yet to find anything telling how to do this.
 
tsunari said:
But my question remains . . . how do you test the CAS? I have yet to find anything telling how to do this.

Spend the $80 and buy a new one and if it doesn't fix your problem return it for your money back.
 
I would drive my car hot or cold weather and after 30 minutes it would start missing until it would finally shut down completely. Replaced the computer. Replaced the coils and wires. Could never find the cause. Till the neck broke off my radiator. Got a 120 cheapo replacement. The temperature on the gauge was identical. Right in the middle.

The lower half of my original radiator was rotted toast. I noticed that full heat was cooler than the 1/2 setting. It has stopped missing and shutting down on me for the las 8K miles. I reccomend checking the condition of your radiator.
 
gsx-box said:
I would drive my car hot or cold weather and after 30 minutes it would start missing until it would finally shut down completely. Replaced the computer. Replaced the coils and wires. Could never find the cause. Till the neck broke off my radiator. Got a 120 cheapo replacement. The temperature on the gauge was identical. Right in the middle.

The lower half of my original radiator was rotted toast. I noticed that full heat was cooler than the 1/2 setting. It has stopped missing and shutting down on me for the las 8K miles. I reccomend checking the condition of your radiator.

Interesting idea . . . When it first happened to me, had the stock radiator in. Now I have a Koyo and it has done it once with that one too. . .

As for the 'buy a new one' method for testing . . . that's not really going to help. This is an intermittent problem that I can not seem to reproduce at will. If I could reproduce it fairly easy, then I would agree that this would be a good method for troubleshooting . . .

Is there no way to test the cas with a multimeter?
 
my car does the same thing.... when im driving if i hold the gas steady it will cut out and act like its running on 3 cylinders. i have to then shut the car off and turn the key back on and it runs fine. the problem does not happen when im constantly on and of the gas. Help me!!! it first happened when i put the 1g head on the car....so is my cas bad? computer take a shit? i dont know... and the car idles at like 3k when its warm. ps car is a 95 tsi awd auto.
 
I have somewhat of the same issue on my 2g. When the car is cold it fires right up and runs great. It seems though that after I shut the car off and turn it back on a couple minutes later it bearly wants to run and struggles around 400 rpms. This lasts for about 20 seconds and then it all of a sudden jumps right up to 750rpms and everything is fine.:toobad:
 
well i recently acquired another 93-94 CAS (black-top), so I may see if I can get it cleaned-up and swapped out this weekend . . . see if anything changes. Will let you all know the results.
 
boosteddsm18 said:
my car does the same thing.... when im driving if i hold the gas steady it will cut out and act like its running on 3 cylinders. i have to then shut the car off and turn the key back on and it runs fine. the problem does not happen when im constantly on and of the gas. Help me!!! it first happened when i put the 1g head on the car....so is my cas bad? computer take a shit? i dont know... and the car idles at like 3k when its warm. ps car is a 95 tsi awd auto.

Same to mine!!!! I was 2 hours from home, coming back up from los angeles when it started doing it. I would pull over, then shut the car off, turn it back on, then it would "reset it." I would then be good for a bit. I have read the cel on my logger before and it was the good ol "random misfires" code. Anyways..It starting getting bad, worse, then it would not go back to normal anymore. Ahhhh!!!!!!! I had to get it towed late night, stayed in a hotel, then went to this shop in the morning...

...by the way...I have recently put in new NGK wires, bpr7es plugs, seafoamed the engine, and my coil pack resistance is on the money....back to the story :)

...so they tested it and said my first two injectors were not getting the voltage needed. (they did say compression was great and no valves bent, whew!!) I was running on only two cylinders. WHAT!!!!? They said it was the wires leading up to them, or the ECU. I did ask Road Race about the problem while I was down in LA a couple of days ago, and they said that the ECU had been going bad very often and pulling random misfires on people. So thats what i'm about to do. I'm gonna take another ecu and try it out. I will let everyone know if that worked...tomorrow evening when I get back (hopefully with my car running noraml again!)


I f*ckin love :dsm:
 
Awesome . . . let us know how it goes! I haven't gotten around to swapping out the CAS just yet . . .

marq95gst said:
Same to mine!!!! I was 2 hours from home, coming back up from los angeles when it started doing it. I would pull over, then shut the car off, turn it back on, then it would "reset it." I would then be good for a bit. I have read the cel on my logger before and it was the good ol "random misfires" code. Anyways..It starting getting bad, worse, then it would not go back to normal anymore. Ahhhh!!!!!!! I had to get it towed late night, stayed in a hotel, then went to this shop in the morning...

...by the way...I have recently put in new NGK wires, bpr7es plugs, seafoamed the engine, and my coil pack resistance is on the money....back to the story :)

...so they tested it and said my first two injectors were not getting the voltage needed. (they did say compression was great and no valves bent, whew!!) I was running on only two cylinders. WHAT!!!!? They said it was the wires leading up to them, or the ECU. I did ask Road Race about the problem while I was down in LA a couple of days ago, and they said that the ECU had been going bad very often and pulling random misfires on people. So thats what i'm about to do. I'm gonna take another ecu and try it out. I will let everyone know if that worked...tomorrow evening when I get back (hopefully with my car running noraml again!)


I f*ckin love :dsm:
 
tsunari said:
Awesome . . . let us know how it goes! I haven't gotten around to swapping out the CAS just yet . . .


Wasn't the ecu. Swapped it with another and the same two cylinders are not going. There is spark in my wires. But now the problem is isolated to the wires between the ecu and the injectors themselves. Maybe a bad ground? We'll see. And I don't have a CAS (1995 gst), so that rules that out...

..Will keep you posted!!!!

Yo amo mi :dsm:
 
Yeah yeah. . . I'm a bastard for not updating this thread . . . thanks to 'bhop' though, I've been kindly reminded ;)

Never actually got around to swapping the CAS out . . . only thing I really did was replace the coilpack with another used one (ohmed out the same as the original one) and never really saw the problem again. But the weather is warming up now and this problem only seemed to happen in the colder months so who knows . . . If it crops up again or I find a difinitive answer, will definitely try an remember that I started this thread already :D
 
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