1G Stupid M/T Trans Removal Question

[CrackedDSM]

Stupid question: do I HAVE to pull the axles to slide the transmission back enough to access the pivot ball? My plan/idea is to pull the passenger axle from the hub, and just unbolt the drivers side half shaft from the block and let it flop/slide back.

I’m not even trying to hide the fact I’m lazy and don’t wanna have to fully drop the trans to fix my “should’ve done it before you bolted everything together” mistake. Lol. I don’t want to perform surgery through the fork hole like Jack M from Jacks Transmission said you could do, but I don’t want to fully drop and disassemble it either.

I’m gonna try it either way. Unless someone has firsthand guru knowledge and says it’s impossible. In which case we’re gonna find out just how little needs to be disconnected before a trans will drop.


Feel free to roast me…but plz halp too. Lol.

 

[bastarddsm]

Use a cherry picker, get a loop welded to a bolt that threads into the boss in the top of the trans. Trans on jacks ruins clutch discs. Leave the driver side axle in the hub, but you have to unbolt the carrier off the block. You have to be careful because you can easily f*** the seal, and you have to start it in at the right time putting it back in. Have to remove the passenger side axle. There is not enough room to slide the trans back and shim the pivot ball. Diff hits the k member. Should be able to drop the trans in 45min or less. It's not hard. Probably take your UICP off. Take upper trans mount completely off the car in 1 piece. Unbolt from trans and body.

All that said, you are wasting your time. Shimming the pivot ball won't help.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Use a cherry picker, get a loop welded to a bolt that threads into the boss in the top of the trans. Trans on jacks ruins clutch discs. Leave the driver side axle in the hub, but you have to unbolt the carrier off the block. You have to be careful because you can easily f*** the seal, and you have to start it in at the right time putting it back in. Have to remove the passenger side axle. There is not enough room to slide the trans back and shim the pivot ball. Diff hits the k member. Should be able to drop the trans in 45min or less. It's not hard. Probably take your UICP off. Take upper trans mount completely off the car in 1 piece. Unbolt from trans and body.

All that said, you are wasting your time. Shimming the pivot ball won't help.

I’ll bite, why won’t it help?

 

[bastarddsm]

Because that is not the problem. It is a self adjusting clutch for starters. Secondly it's a simple geometry problem. To get the most travel out from the least travel in the fork should start and end at the same angle. So that the slave is as close to perpendicular to the fork as possible and the fork is as perpendicular to the input shaft as possible. But if you look at it, it's easy to see that it can't get far enough off to have hardly any effect. Worst case the angle could get to 10 maybe 15*. Take the cos of that - it's 96%. That 4% could cause a little drag I guess, but if it does that just means it's not going to be anywhere even close to releasing at any rpm.

EVERY HEAVIER THAN STOCK CLUTCH EVER NEEDS MORE THAN STOCK TOB TRAVEL TO RELEASE - STOCK THEY WERE MARGINAL.

Here is how I fix it:
#1 blueprint/measure/inspect the clutch. Determine how much TOB travel to release - and if it's even possible - It's probably not. I know you have a SBC, but an ACT 2600 and a sprung hub disc will almost not work unless you run a deeper than stock step - but that causes other issues. In my experience you need to be able to get at least 0.050" of clearance between the disc and the flywheel without the fingers touching the disc.

#2 drill a big hole in the bottom of the bellhousing so you can measure release clearance.

#3 measure it, and devise a way to make the TOB move far enough to get there.

#4 never run a sprung hub disc in a performance application.

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I shift that at almost 10k I think 1-2 on the pass was 9700. It's got a single disc clutch and a beat ass old 90 trans with old used parts and bangged up sliders in it. It's also got an old worn pivot ball and fork. Can't remember where the step height is, but does it matter when the pressure plate has been ground a few times? Oh and this ones a N/T trans so it has ball bearings so no preload to help it shift either. Those are about 250ms shifts pedal up down back up.

 

[pauleyman]

Stupid question: do I HAVE to pull the axles to slide the transmission back enough to access the pivot ball? My plan/idea is to pull the passenger axle from the hub, and just unbolt the drivers side half shaft from the block and let it flop/slide back.

I’m not even trying to hide the fact I’m lazy and don’t wanna have to fully drop the trans to fix my “should’ve done it before you bolted everything together” mistake. Lol. I don’t want to perform surgery through the fork hole like Jack M from Jacks Transmission said you could do, but I don’t want to fully drop and disassemble it either.

I’m gonna try it either way. Unless someone has firsthand guru knowledge and says it’s impossible. In which case we’re gonna find out just how little needs to be disconnected before a trans will drop.


Feel free to roast me…but plz halp too. Lol.

I would undo the passenger control arm. When I drop a trans I don't pull the axle from the hub. I drop the control arm and undo the knuckle from the strut. In your case you only need to move out some. Undo control arm should allow knuckle enough movement to take axle with it. Whether you disconnect at trans will be determined by how much you need to pull away.