Stroker Questions... Planning next years build

[Fitzi722]

Ok, I have seen quite a bit of talk about strokers on this forum and I am thinking about making the jump next summer, but I want to ask a few directed questions before I do anything.

First and foremost here is my mod list: The DSM Registry Ver2
(I believe my mod list in my profile here is current too, but I know the dsmregistry profile is current)

As far as goals I would like to get around low-to-mid 400's, and I know I will need to get a new turbo for that to happen.

MAP DSM Stroker Kit - Modern Automotive Performance
That is the kit I was looking at for the stroker kit. Probably looking at going 0.020 bore with the Wiseco pistons. Anyone with any experience with kits like this or similar? I would appreciate feedback on setups like this, or suggestions as to what would be better.

So, the head that is on the car now was built over the winter. Valves are OEM, springs and retainers are Manley, Crower 272/272 cams (Adjustable Cam Gears will be ordered as soon as I get my next paycheck). No porting or anything like that. Still a stock intake mani. Should I be looking at upgrades for the head if I get this stroker kit? Basically I am wondering if the head will be a bottleneck for horsepower with this setup.

Lastly comes the turbo. I am assuming I will need something fairly big for this type of setup. I don't want to get into a huge debate over "what's the best turbo", I am more looking for guidance as to the type of turbos I will want to look at. I like to autoX too, so quick spool up would be nice, but it's not a deal breaker.

If anyone has any feedback I will really appreciate it.

 

[Calan]

Your head will be fine as it is, and for 400-450whp, an HX35 or possibly a 20g would be a good fit.

If money isn't an issue, the FP HT68A seems to be making a lot of noise lately for good power and fast spool.

 

[Absit]

What fuel are you going to be using?

 

[Fitzi722]

Thanks for the turbo advice calan!

As for fuel I'd like to stay on pump gas if possible.

 

[Absit]

I'd go with the HX35 or 68HTA then, but I'd go with a lower duration intake cam. I don't know the lift of the Crower cams off the top of my head either, but you'll want some high lift to go with that stroke.

 

[Calan]

I'm still running the FP2's (basically 272's) from when I was a 2.0l. They are nice cams, but I would prefer some different profile cams that can take advantage of the extra stroke as Absit mentioned. I stayed with what I had until the beehives go in.

You should be fine with the 272's though, for that power level anyway.

 

[Fitzi722]

I like the 272's for the setup I have now, and they have less than 400 miles on them so I'd like to keep them if I could, but am willing to go to something else if it would be beneficial.

What would constitute a "stroker" cam?

EDIT: just re-read both posts. So high lift- low duration is what I should be looking for?

 

[Calan]

I like the 272's for the setup I have now, and they have less than 400 miles on them so I'd like to keep them if I could, but am willing to go to something else if it would be beneficial.

What would constitute a "stroker" cam?

EDIT: just re-read both posts. So high lift- low duration is what I should be looking for?

"Stroker" cams have a more squared-off profile, and are designed to maximize airflow a little better with the stroked motor. FP used to sell them, but I don't know if they are still available or not. The last I heard they were going to discontinue them, but I'm sure other vendors still offer something similar.

If you're made of money, you could always toss a set of Kelfords in it.

You'll be fine with your 272's.

 

[Fitzi722]

I'll probably stick with the 272's. Maybe if a money tree grows in my lawn I'll get the Kelfords

I've got some good info for the motor now, but I just thought about my tranny and drivetrain. Should I be looking at upgrades in these areas?

 

[crusada]

YES you should sir tranny and drive train is gonna be big to. Ive seen strokers blow a shep tranny apart.

 

[DSM_munky_man]

Imma be watching this, I am bout to do the same thing. My tuner and SIM (pple doing my head and stroker block) Suggetsted the 275's that SIM offers with there head build, you can also by them seperate from them as well.

 

[Fitzi722]

What's the Tranny and Drivetrain "Upgrade Path" for cars like this?

 

[Absit]

Auto or manual?

 

[Fitzi722]

Manual

 

[Calan]

What's the Tranny and Drivetrain "Upgrade Path" for cars like this?

Upgraded tranny builds usually include new brass and bearings, double synchros for 2nd and 3rd, stronger shift forks, a 4-spider or welded center diff, etc. All of the major tranny shops offer "staged" builds with varying levels of performance and cost. Check out Shep, Jack's Transmissions, or TRE for some ideas.

Note: The manual tranny in a DSM (or possibly the transfer case) is usually the weakest link once you start making power; even built ones break if you launch improperly or make gobs of torque. Do a lot of research before just sinking your hard-earned cash into the latest and greatest stage 2368123 manual transmission rebuild.

A stronger clutch is a must (especially with a stroker), and there are TONS of threads on this subject. The ACT 2600 is a popular and proven choice, but do some research.

You also want to make sure your axles/CV joints and driveshaft carrier bearings are in good shape. As for stronger parts, OEM 4-bolt rear axles and rear diff are the norm (for those that don't already have them), and you can always sink as much money as you can find into better driveshafts and axles if you wish.

And don't forget lubrication. There is a lot of debate on this subject, but you can't really go wrong with Redline HSP in the transfer case and rear diff, and MT90 in the tranny.

 

[phunny]

I'd definitely be building the tranny and get a warranty . Torque owns these things