Straight 40 Weight oil to help burning oil problem?

[Spoolin4Ever]

OK, so this 90 NT Auto car we have smokes and burns oil (bad rings, worn valve seals).

There's no way in hell I'm going to rebuild the engine, as the car is not what I consider a real long term keeper. But I have enough money into it, where I want to drive it for another year before selling it off real cheap.

I normally just ad Lucas Oil Treatment to it.

But I was also considering switching to a straight 40 weight oil, I heard somehwere it might help make the additive work better.

With an engine with 210,000 miles on it, that's pretty worn, loose tolerances, anyone think maybe a straight 40 weight might help?

Supposedly the multi weight oil when it's cold, and you first put in the additive, some of the additive goes out the exhaust before it can get to doing it's job or something.

Just looking for the "ultimate bandaid" for the burning oil problem.

 

[grpracing]

I've had better luck with the 20-50 but the straight 40w should help. I'd recommend a cheap helper for the rings to help things along. Get a bottle of trans fluid and pull your plugs. Pour a little of the oil; into each of the cylinders and turn the motor over allowing the trans fluid to help cut the rings back in a little. It will help bring the compression back up a little and re seat the rings.then add your additive to the oil after an oil change and see how it takes to that. We use this method on older tractor motors to help give them some life cause it isn't cheap to rebuild an old model A motor anymore but I have used this method on allot of old oil burners and we just brought a Neon back to life using this method. It had compression as low as 65 lbs and one cyl with 100 and now it is back to 130 = or - 5 lbs across the board.

 

[matt87]

Woah, that works? How much oil do you use in each and how does it help im confused?

Ive always used the engine restore oil addative which was good on my 200k mile probe and my winter beaters but doesnt help near as much as what your talking about. I must try this next time.

 

[Evil1gDsm]

I agree, but don't that is only a bandaid to the problem!!

 

[Mist3r Spool]

Woah, that works? How much oil do you use in each and how does it help im confused?

Ive always used the engine restore oil addative which was good on my 200k mile probe and my winter beaters but doesnt help near as much as what your talking about. I must try this next time.

I've tried those things as well but the truth is that there are NO mechanics in a bottle of fluid...but it would be nice. Instead of investing money into fluids (which may add up quite a bit in your case) you could just set it aside for the parts you need and just fix the problem yourself/pay someone to fix it.

 

[grpracing]

Woah, that works? How much oil do you use in each and how does it help im confused?

Ive always used the engine restore oil addative which was good on my 200k mile probe and my winter beaters but doesnt help near as much as what your talking about. I must try this next time.

You really dont have to use much per cylinder. The trans fluid is more abrasive and helps take the glaze off to allow the rings to re-seat. It is not a perfect fix but if you need to get more miles out of it without being one of those smoke machines this trick works quite well. You shouldnt need a full quart for all 4 cyls.

 

[grpracing]

I agree, but don't that is only a bandaid to the problem!!

I agree that it is a bandaid but #1 that is what the post was asking for and #2 the cost of a quart of tranny fluid is not going to kill anyone. I am a certified mechanic and not a shade tree. I would rather pull a motor and do it right but desperate times call for desperate acts.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

Yeah I want the bandaid fix, I already know the long term fix: rebuild the engine (no shit sherlock).

Nope, this is one of 3 cars we own. And it's at the bottom of the ladder. I have about $2000 into this car; it's an NT Auto. I am not sinking $1000-$2000 into the engine!

It works fine as a commuter, it's reliable, has new brakes, and part of the money I have into it was a Tbelt job, including all the other stuff (Waterpump, etc..).

I just want to know the tried and true best way to stretch out the life it has in it. I want to sell it, but I can only get about $1000 for it right now, so I may drive it for another year, then sell for $1000 at that time.

So no way I want to throw big money into it.

Yeah I was thinking 20W50 but winter is coming.

I just topped off the 10W30 with some Lucas, and the oil was changed recently, so I'm gonna wait till the next oil change and try the tranny fluid trick right beofre I change the oil next time. Sounds cool if it will help.

I'm sure the rings are coated quite a bit.

When you put the tranny fluid in, you just turn it over with the plugs still out? Or start it and drive or not.

Thanks.

 

[grpracing]

Just turn it over with the plugs out for a little while and then clean it out and change the oil. I usually turn them over for 3 to 4 minutes and then let it sit for a few to cool the starter and hit it one more time. It breaks up the crap on the rings and cuts them back in. Should help for the ring side blowby and give you some added life to the motor.

 

[wolf20043]

Actually.........the bandaid will fix it, but by the time you want to sell it in a year I dont think you will get the $1000 you are looking for. I pick up cars people use band aids on all day every day for $100 cause the band aid does give out. Unless you are going to toss another bandaid on it and take some poor sucker that dont know better. Just My 2 cents worth.
Mike

 

[grpracing]

I do agree. It would be pretty crappy to get a car that has been doctored to sell.Its one thing to try to get your moneys worth.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

Yeah I'm having second thoughts. I don't want to screw anyone.

As far as getting my money back, well I'm in about 2K. But we did drive it for about a year, so I guess I should just sell it for 1K and be happy with that.

Right now it kinda crappy trying to start it in the morning (getting cold out), partially because I added a whole quart of Lucas, even though it already had some thickener in it. So the oil is thick in the cold morning. Plus low compression.

THis stuff works good when the car is warm/hot, but when cold it sucks.

But it smokes when the car is heated up and been drivin a while, especially if you let it idle for quite a while. That's why I added more lucas. I went to shoe it to someone, and I had been driving it about a half hour, then got in some really heavy traffic and so it idled alot. Started smoking bad.

Guess I'm trying to decide what oil mix to put in it and what to sell it for.

 

[grpracing]

I still think you should do the bandaid to get you thru but when we are talking about when you sell it just be honest about it needing work. the trans oil will help it run and not smoke as much. It wont hurt what is already bad but you just cant try to play it off to someone else is being in fine order. Thats all we were saying.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

I hear ya. Well I would have to wait till the next oil change to do it. I just changed it recently and am tired of putting money into it, tired of having it around too

And I just sold the car for $1200.

I think they did ok compared to what else is here in that price range. Cause it has tbelt done, new tires and brakes, new alternator, fuel filter, plugs, oil and battery.

Umm other things done since i have owned it: valve cover gasket, ecu rebuilt.

Added an aftermakrket deck, AMFMCD, it only had am fm cassetee with broken radio when i bought it.

It still starts everytime and can eaily go over 100 on the highway, handles good, etc..

 

[grpracing]

Well thats kool. Now ytou dont have to worry about rebuilding that motor either.