The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Burning oil, help???

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

MadrussianSVT

10+ Year Contributor
95
0
Jun 9, 2011
Minneapolis, Minnesota
I noticed on the dyno that at wot my car does put out mixture of what appears black and bluish smoke, not much but it is visible. Tuner told me that most likely its the valve-train, something to do with the valves.... So today my car set at idle for about 20 min or so and when I came back to it it was putting out good amount of bluish smoke. As I revved it a bit it was putting out more bluish smoke. Once I started to drive I notices that amount of smoke significantly reduced and was not noticeable, even when I parked afterwards in idle it was putting out barely any smoke, but once it sat for a bit it started doing same thing.
Before I start tearing stuff apart is there any easier steps to identify the problem? Is there any easy fix? I really don't have time to take motor apart and I hoping its something valve related.
Another thing is that I think my car runs very rich at the moment, I constantly smell fuel. I smell fuel at idle, during the shifts and as soon as I let go of gas. Could this be related? What is the worst thing that can happen from running rich for a prolonged period of time?
thanx guys for any info, I really need it.
 
Sounds to me like a blown head gasket. The black and blue smoke is probably a mixture of antifreeze and oil leaking into the piston chamber. Is there something else we should know?

There no smoke at the start up and once car is moving there is no smoke. I don't think it's coolant, it's burning oil and smoke is bluish.
 
Sounds to me like a blown head gasket. The black and blue smoke is probably a mixture of antifreeze and oil leaking into the piston chamber. Is there something else we should know?

^^^ Well, your username says it all...:|

I would be looking at the valve stem seals as a possible culprit, along with maybe a tired turbo. Pull the air intake off of the turbo inlet and check the turbo for shaft play. A little up and down is acceptable, but there should be no in and out shaft play.

Do you have your bov recirculated, or is it vented to the atmosphere?
 
Just gonna say it. These are the typical colors of smoke that will be produced in any Gasoline powered car and what they represent.

Black= running rich
Blue= burning oil
Blue grey= burning oil
Grey= burning oil or possibly water
White= water

Sounds to me like a blown head gasket. The black and blue smoke is probably a mixture of antifreeze and oil leaking into the piston chamber. Is there something else we should know?
 
Last edited:
^^^ Well, your username says it all...:|

I would be looking at the valve stem seals as a possible culprit, along with maybe a tired turbo. Pull the air intake off of the turbo inlet and check the turbo for shaft play. A little up and down is acceptable, but there should be no in and out shaft play.

Do you have your bov recirculated, or is it vented to the atmosphere?

^ This is common sense. Learn it. Use it.

A basic concept is that Leaking valves will produce smoke at startup, low RPM idle, and will clear up during regular driving. Piston rings cause your vehicle to smoke full time, even while driving. A Blown Turbo will produce smoke at different intervals depending on how bad it is.

I would first check the turbo and intake system. Make sure that your intercooler is clear of oil buildup, that you have a minimal amount of oil in your intake, and check the turbo as Grave suggested. We want to eliminate the possibility of a blown turbo. Check shaft play. Check thrust.

Secondly, check your PCV system. This can and will lead to odd symptoms in your vehicle if it is malfunctioning. The check-valve on the rear side of the valve cover is usually the culprit.

Third, go ahead and perform a compression and leakdown test. These go hand in hand with any DSMer looking to diagnose an issue with their vehicle. This will tell you about your rings, the condition of your combustion chamber, and how well your valves are sealing.

Finally, do a boost leak test. This is a must in any situation. You're going to find some, I promise.
 
^ This is common sense. Learn it. Use it.

A basic concept is that Leaking valves will produce smoke at startup, low RPM idle, and will clear up during regular driving. Piston rings cause your vehicle to smoke full time, even while driving. A Blown Turbo will produce smoke at different intervals depending on how bad it is.

I would first check the turbo and intake system. Make sure that your intercooler is clear of oil buildup, that you have a minimal amount of oil in your intake, and check the turbo as Grave suggested. We want to eliminate the possibility of a blown turbo. Check shaft play. Check thrust.

Secondly, check your PCV system. This can and will lead to odd symptoms in your vehicle if it is malfunctioning. The check-valve on the rear side of the valve cover is usually the culprit.

Third, go ahead and perform a compression and leakdown test. These go hand in hand with any DSMer looking to diagnose an issue with their vehicle. This will tell you about your rings, the condition of your combustion chamber, and how well your valves are sealing.

Finally, do a boost leak test. This is a must in any situation. You're going to find some, I promise.

Ok guys, a lot of useful info, thanks to all of you! Turbo is a turbonetics (5? Trim) and about a year old, I will check it out this weekend. From everything read on this site I think that it's valve stem seals as well, no how hard would it be to replace them, do I have to get the cam out and redo timing after I'm done? How much would it cost to just get the shop do the work?
 
Ok guys, a lot of useful info, thanks to all of you! Turbo is a turbonetics (5? Trim) and about a year old, I will check it out this weekend. From everything read on this site I think that it's valve stem seals as well, no how hard would it be to replace them, do I have to get the cam out and redo timing after I'm done? How much would it cost to just get the shop do the work?

It's going to require removing the cams. There are ways to avoid doing a timing job, but I don't recommend them. If you are unfamiliar as to how to do this, I would recommend sending the head off to be serviced to going to shop who is familiar with these vehicles.
 
I decided to look for a replacement head that is already built and just swapping it out over time, I think it would be way cheaper.
 
you sure your rings are good? i seen car smoke blue with the rings fried...just make sure you done all the said tests before you can conclude what your problem actually is..
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top