Stock tune setting

[gomills516]

I bought a 1995 gst and it came with a SAFC but before i even decide to use this i want to drive the car on its original setting how do i come about doing this???


Help

 

[ty92dsm]

Unplug it and pull the battery cable and you should be back to factory setting...it will be ok as long as you have stock injector which you do right?

 

[gomills516]

Unplug it and pull the battery cable and you should be back to factory setting...it will be ok as long as you have stock injector which you do right?

yes i do i have stock injectors

 

[ty92dsm]

Then you should be alright to unplug it, I would unplug the battery just to be sure

 

[gomills516]

ok and my friend turned the MBC all the way to nothing and the BOV. So im asking how much PSI should i set the boost controller??

 

[ty92dsm]

set it at 10-12psi until you get some more supporting mods. Are you running your BOV recirculated back into the intake?

 

[gomills516]

the BOV what setting Hard or Soft ??

and yes i have a pic check it out and let me know what you think

My Red GST :: DSC00983.jpg picture by gomills516 - Photobucket

 

[iBoostDSM]

When I had a Greddy RS I had to adjust it pretty soft so it wouldn't flutter. Every car is different. But my guess is that you'll need to make it quite a bit softer if it is adjusted all the way to the hard setting.

 

[Absit]

set it at 10-12psi until you get some more supporting mods.

You can run 15 PSI on a stock 2G just fine.

 

[gomills516]

You can run 15 PSI on a stock 2G just fine.

Thanks and did you check the Picks out

did i connect everything rite

 

[iBoostDSM]

I don't think your MBC is hooked up correctly. The bottom end should be coming from the wastegate and the side should connect to a boost source.

 

[Absit]

It's a mess. It should all work, but I'd completely redo it if I were you and had the $5 for some new vacuum hose, it has WAY too many T's for me.

I'd set it up like this:
BOV > IM (you have 1 T here but it looks like it's capped?)
WG > MBC > Compressor Housing Nipple (I see 2 splits on the MBC line going to the IM, looks like it shares the line with the FPR-S and possibly a boost gauge?) I'd actually just pull the MBC and go back to the BCS with the restrictor removed.
IM > FPR-S and boost gauge (here's a good place for a T)

Vacuum hose is cheap, and searching for vacuum leaks is a headache, especially with so many connectors and splits. It'll look nicer, be easier to diagnose, and less prone to leak/blow off. Zip tie your connections when you're done.

 

[gomills516]

It's a mess. It should all work, but I'd completely redo it if I were you and had the $5 for some new vacuum hose, it has WAY too many T's for me.

I'd set it up like this:
BOV > IM (you have 1 T here but it looks like it's capped?)
WG > MBC > Compressor Housing Nipple (I see 2 splits on the MBC line going to the IM, looks like it shares the line with the FPR-S and possibly a boost gauge?) I'd actually just pull the MBC and go back to the BCS with the restrictor removed.
IM > FPR-S and boost gauge (here's a good place for a T)

Vacuum hose is cheap, and searching for vacuum leaks is a headache, especially with so many connectors and splits. It'll look nicer, be easier to diagnose, and less prone to leak/blow off. Zip tie your connections when you're done.

Thank you Broo thats what i been looking for