The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Stock intake vs FMIC

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

EagleTalonTim

15+ Year Contributor
830
13
Jan 10, 2007
Brighton, Tennessee
Ok, here is the deal. I just got done installing my FMIC from Punishment Racing which was an upgrade from a bone stock intake on my 1g. I went for a drive expecting something to be different and nothing was! It sounds the same and pulls the same just like as if I still have my stock intake on. Is this normal? Why does everyone praise the FMIC when I can tell no difference at all?
 
A front mount at stock boost levels isn't going to do much. What it allows you to do is turn up the boost, without blowing hot air into the engine, causing knock.
 
How much many boost are you running? Most people upgrade to a front mount in order to increase the amount of boost they can run because the stock system tends to heat soak easily and can't continue to cool very well as the boost level is increased.
 
Whats your wideband readings? (assuming you have one because you should) You shouldnt be knocking on 93 at 20psi on an E3 if you're tuned
 
Don't have one yet :( Too expensive :p The shops around here want 300 for the wideband and to install the bung...Not install the wiring since i can do that myself. I watch my IDC and timing for now. I have to sell a few more shift boxes before I can get a Wideband.

If my fuel pressure is too high, would that cause knock at higher boost levels? I have been having a hard time adjusting my fuel pressure since my pressure gauge is off by at least 5psi. Is their an easier way to tune it?
 
You're probably just running lean/rich causing the knock. I'd most likely say alittle lean but its tough to say without a wideband. I'd say just keep the boost around 18 where it doesnt knock until you afford a wideband. You can get one now for ~200$, not sure why they would charge you 100$ to weld a bung in ;). Without it, even monitoring the other stuff is really "hunting blind" esp. because you have a chip so knowing your AFR's is impossible
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top