Stock Head Gasket or Metal Head Gasket

[Ryan G.]

If it is MLS (and it is) it will take up .004" The 4G63 block is iron, not aluminum or steel that will war easily. If you had the head checked and/or planed if it needed it, use the MLS gasket. There are NO disadvantages to using it, only positives. I would use the MLS, torque your ARP's in 3 steps to 85ft/lbs and go. My machinist looked at three blocks for me one needed bored out, one had spun bearings, and the third had blown the head gasket (got these all for cheap $)...NONE had any deck problems

 

[Awdboost]

I always thought the stock one was metal.. So I should be any different from a HKS one and a Stock one. But I could be wrong.

 

[Tevenor]

I put metal 4-layer on both of my cars, even the stockish 92. I wouldn't reuse the stock HG but I would the 4-layer metal Mitsu gasket.

I don't think either is a bad choice. Both will hold up to the abuse you plan on putting it through so go with whatever you feel the most comfortable with. I felt more comfortable with the 4-layer.

 

[GSTspeedracer]

I've heard.....
Aluminum Head....
Cast Iron Block.....
Stock OEM Head Gasket......

cause adding a metal head gasket ( copper usually ), this would be adding yet another different type metal that has different heating charactersitcs.........then the first two......head and block.
But, at a certain point in a build up of a motor ( don't know ) I think you have to go to a full metal gasket. I've heard over and over it's very hard to get them to the correct tolarences for heating and shrinking.

Go all out and get it Decked and O ringed and then you'll have no problems with a gasket.

 

[g96nt]

someone mentioned this..but if you've had the head "rebuilt"
it Usually involves seals, baking, and a planing.

if this is the case.. use the mitsu 4-layer.. which will take into account the shaving of your head.

paper gaskets are fine, and have been proven to be, but the planing/shaving.. poses An issue.

now.... you have a 2g.. let's make sure that you get some ARP's or at *LEAST* new stretch-bolts.

the headgasket may be Able to hold 26Psi.... but With factory head bolts, your Asking to lift the head off the block at, or Around 22psi.
this will make Short work of the best headgasket

 

[larryd]

well i do have ARPs.. but im still stuck on OEM head gasket or the 4 layer Mitsu gasket?!?!?!

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

Since its related to this post I might ask..could the bad head studs be the reason for blowing a head gasket and is it a common problem on the 2g? I just blew my HG and have no clue to why really..bu this could be a reason.....

Is it necessary to change them if you thinking of going say 300+ WHP?

I am also int he decission on whhat to get..metal or OEM gasket..My head will be decked with a very good machine so it will be no problem with that..but..do I need a metal gasket for a mildly tunde engine like mine?

 

[larryd]

answers are yes and yes

 

[g96nt]

well, larry.. i think it comes down To this.....

why not do it right the *FIRST* Time?

get the 4-layer, and use your ARP's
this way....a) when you decide to go up a bit... you're safe.
b) if you ever have an "accident" you will have to worry about one less thing "breaking".

if you have The opprutunity to upgrade.. why not?

 

[larryd]

well thats what i was thinking as well, and I already have the 4 layer and the ARPs but other people are telling me not to do it

 

[AWDkitkat]

do what you want. i seems like you have your mind made up anyway

 

[Tevenor]

Its your car. You make the decision. Everyone else can only give you their opinions. In the end, you are the dipsh!t that will be doing the work, so do what you think is right. Its really simple.

 

[SPEEDY]

I would go with the stock hg and arp studs, since the oem hg is good for 450hp, you shouldn't worry at all, unless your planning on replacing the stock rods, and really start cranking the boost up, cause the stock rods are only good up to about the 400hp mark.

 

[GVR-4]

Larry, I've been keeping up with some of your posts, so I know what point you're at. If I were in your shoes, I would use the OEM headgasket. You've got the ARP studs. That's all I would do if I were in your situation.

dp

 

[DMS-WhiteGSX]

bah, forget everything i've said.. just use the OEM, and get your car on the road!

 

[DSM Performer]

my headgasket is an HKS 1.2MM metal one. Rated at 190,000 PSI. thats a serious HEadGasket. if its apart you might as well replace it with a good gasket, this way you dot have to go and replace it in the future, you said you already have the metal one, so just use it. If your future plans change, you wont be worried about blowing the gasket.

 

[larryd]

my question is this.. since the block wasnt decked.. if it was warped.. would i have a better chance of it sealing with the OEM or the OEM Metal Gasket both using ARP head studs.. Id rather use the metal one since I already bought it but if my results would be better with OEM then ill fork out the cash for OEM, not a biggy

 

[IPT]

If the block is warped good luck getting it to seal at all!! The shop that did my HG tryed three times to get the HG to seal before they desided to pull the block and get it decked. Most cars do not need to be decked from what I have been told.

 

[larryd]

so if its warped im screwed either way. makes sense

 

[IPT]

Yupp...

 

[larryd]

on that notion though, when most people blow their head gaskets do they all take the block out of the car to have it decked?

 

[AWDkitkat]

no the dsm block is damn hard to warp unlike a honda

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

Well I found the gasket here in Sweden for 62$..is a stock one but I need to get it fixed this weelend so I cant wait for a metalone from USA..Maybe I will rebuild the engine some this winter and then I will put in ARP and metals..for now..I need to get it runing..so I will go for stocks right now..Thanx fotr all the help though guys!!!

 

[JET]

Alright, for the second time. The problem is not usually the block warping, it is the block not being machined perfectly flat from the factory. A metal head gasket will not form to the block as well as a stock one will because it has the stiff metal in the middle. You run a risk of blowing out a metal gasket easier if you don't have the block decked. Some blocks will be near nominal and won't have a problem, but if you block is near the high end of the flatness tolerance you aren't going to get a metal head gasket to seal up.

 

[Formz]

I've never once heard of anyone having a problem putting the metal HG on their car. ESPECIALLY with ARP studs. And remember this:

ARP Studs with their moly lube: 85 ftlbs
ARP Studs with 10w30 oil: 100ft lbs.

Throw the metal one in there, put the arp hardware in, and never look back.

BTW.. a tip for everyone, NEVER USE COPPER HEAD GASKETS ON A STOCK BLOCK. THE BLOCK NEEDS TO BE O-RINGED FIRST. End of lesson.