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Stock boost gauge reads boost while cranking

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rossb

15+ Year Contributor
375
1
Oct 9, 2007
Wilmington, North Carolina
I tried searching for this but I didn't find anything like my problem. When I go to start my car, as soon as I turn the key the stock boost gauge goes all the way up, and it wont start. So I'm thinking the ECU sees the car as being in boost(since the in dash is the ECU's guess as to the boost I'm making), and adding fuel accordingly, even though there is not enough oxygen to combust with. So it doesn't allow it to start. Does that sound logical? And if it does, is there a way to fix it? Or did my ECU take a dump on me? I already checked for spark and fuel.

Edit: Also if it keep trying to crank it the boost reading on the dash gauge slowly goes down.
 
I got it started, I removed the vacuum line from the BOV and put it back on, the boost on the gauge fell and after a few tried it cranked(was flooded really bad:coy:). It still runs very rough and idles at about 500-600 RPMS and kinda whines when rev'ed.
 
first off why don't you have an aftermarket boost gauge since the stock one doesn't read worth beans. But if you are seeing boost and the car is dunmping fuel then you'd hear a good backfire if that was so or black buff of smoke out the back. try reseting the car. take the battery neg. off for a minute and see if it will read a new start.
 
I have an after market boost gauge, but getting it started is more of a priority than installing that gauge. I dunno why taking the line off the BOV worked, but it did. And none of the vacuum lines have been messed with since it started acting up before Christmas. But even then the problem only started after it had been warmed up and driven for like 30 minutes. So I hope a disconnected/block vacuum line would have shown some signs before that. On another note, when I give it gas, it sputters a little like it is not getting the right amount of gas, but only for about 1/2 sec when I touch the gas.
 
My vote is the position of the vac lines. There should be a diagram under your hood if you don't have a manual. The only other option I could see is that your timing is WAY off. Meaning while the engine is in the combustion cycle the exhaust valves are open and blowing out, spooling the turbo hard. This would only be if it showed a couple cycles of ignition, though.
 
Do you have a wideband O2 sensor or know of someone you could borrow one from?

Nope, I don't know anyone with a wide band O2. Also how could my timing be way off explain the original problem I had, where after running for about 15-20 minutes, the RPMs would drop to about 1,500 then back up to around 3k(I was cruising in 5th at around 60 MPH). If it was timing shouldn't it have run rough the entire time? Oh and I have a Haynes manual.
 
I actually think it is the purge control valve or the charcoal canister. I tried to check it with the vacuum gun and it would not hold vacuum at all(it should hold vacuum at idle and 3,000 RPMs when under 140 degrees, according to the Haynes manual). I can also hear a gurgling type sound from that area.
 
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