Starting problems + RPM problems

[agoodman86]

I have a 95 Dodge Avenger with a 420a.

When I crank the engine, cold or hot, it always takes an extra couple of turnovers to fire up. It takes just an extra second or two but it's noticeable.

Also, I have recently noticed the majority of time I try to accelerate (especially when it's in 2nd gear and up, I have an automatic), the RPMs will rise to around 2500 or so and then drop down to 2200 and work it's way back up. Acceleration is bogged and fairly slow.

We've put in new spark plugs, new wires and a new fuel filter.

Any ideas? Your help is much appreciated!

 

[DarkStarMenace]

Make sure the CEL isn't on. Check you intake system, meaning air filter to TB. Make sure there aren't any obstructions. It could be a trans issue too, but they generally set a code. Is it sluggish when you try to start?

 

[psycho]

My car would do the same, I replaced the battery with an optima red top and it took half the time it normally does to start. Actually scared me because it started so quick. I would look into a new battery first if it's an older one.

The second part is your torque convertor locking up. It's normal.

Also, you have a private message.

 

[agoodman86]

Thanks for your answers.

After I posted the topic yesterday, I went to work on my car. It's not throwing a check engine light, but I DID finally figure out how to check the errors it has by turning the ignition on-off-on-off and on again. Unfortunately I left the error codes it threw at the shop and won't be able to post them until tomorrow.

Until then, here's an update on my situation:

Two of the codes I remember were 1) Bad EGR and 2) IAC bad or Vacuum Leak.

I replaced the EGR with a brand new one and in the process found a vacuum leak in a hose from the EGR to the back of the motor. I replaced it also.

Now my car fires right up almost instantly (scary at first actually, like the previous post said)

I have not had a chance to check the codes since then but like I said I'll post them first thing tomorrow. My RPM problem and sluggishness is still happening. I also noticed that when I try to rev my car up to say, for example, 2k and hold it there, the RPMs fluctuate up and down about 100-200 as I hold the pedal perfectly still.


NEW: I got home from work today, cut my car off for 5-10 minutes, came back out to the car to start it and it wouldn't start! No dash lights, nothing. I jump started it, it was a little sluggish to turn over but fired right up. Let it run for 10 minutes, turned it off, turned the ignition on - lights worked - but when I went to crank it it died instantly.

It refuses to start now unless I get jumped off by another vehicle.

Thanks guys.

 

[DarkStarMenace]

I would get a voltmeter and test the battery. Make sure you get 12 volts with the car off. Then check when the key is turned to ACC, not starting the car. Then turn your headlights on and take a measure. These will fluctuate for a moment but you should still be near 12 volts. Then get a measure when cranking the car to see how much of draw it takes. Usually if your below 10 volts while cranking, your battery is on its way out or may need a charge overnight.
The other thing you wanna check is the charging of the battery. When the car is running, make sure all your accessories are running. Your stereo, a/c, headlights. These are the things that provide the right amount of load on the system. Keep the car above 2k RPM's. This is when you wanna take a measure. If you can, measure the output of the alternator and then compare that to the reading of the battery on the same test. If there isn't a change, then all the wiring is good. You should see at least 13 volts when the alternator is charging.
Another option is taking it to Autozone so they could do the same test on their R2D2 machine. They can check your starting, charging and battery on this machine. I would call before to make sure their unit is working if you go that route. Hope this helps.