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Starting problem after engine wash

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AWD_turbo

Probationary Member
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Oct 7, 2004
Dorr, Michigan
I made the mistake of washing my engine with degreaser yesterday. The car will not stay started. It will try to start for a second but then quits trying. While trying to start it the tach will jump up and down befor I even try to turn the motor over. I am also having the ECU relay clicking and have had some others from the fuse box click.

This tells me its the transistor, coil pack, CAS, ECU and thats all I can think of.

I checked the ECU for burns or leakage, Its good. I checked the coil pack where the plug wires plug in and that reads fine, however the conector I am having some problems geting a corect reading and I am not geting good readings from the transistor.

My question is if i am getting some sort of spark and fuel because it dose kick over for a second what whould couse this to act the way it is?

Thanks for any help and yeah I realize I am an IDIOT.

Dan
 
Yeah I tryed to cover the sensor as much as I could but I do have a 95 but I guess its almost imposible to keep every drop off of it. ok, does anyone know how I can test this with a continuity tester or some sort of resistance? Also if it dose turn out to be the cam angle sensor or crank angle sensor is it posible to swap for a 1g style CAS, do I have the slot on my cam for it? Thanks guys.

Dan
 
1g CAS went on. But now I have a problem with spark timing. It will not fire at all. It will start to here some firing but then the motor will bind up and the starter cant turn the motor over and I will have to wait till probably pressure to releve and I can try again. I am stumped. The only thing I can think of is the ECU did get fried because I dont know if a bad ecu will always have a burn mark or leak. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks alot.
 
1g CAS went on. But now I have a problem with spark timing. It will not fire at all. It will start to here some firing but then the motor will bind up and the starter cant turn the motor over and I will have to wait till probably pressure to releve and I can try again. I am stumped. The only thing I can think of is the ECU did get fried because I dont know if a bad ecu will always have a burn mark or leak. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks alot.

Did you put the cam angle sensor on 180 degrees off?
 
Ok, thats what i figured. I just never read any one straight answer about it. How would you know if it's off? I've read some people do it 180 and it makes no difference. Makes me wonder if maybe thats why i had to adjust soooo far to get it in time again.
 
No I made sure the timing marks on CAS were matched, I thought that too so I went back threw it and everything and I am sure I got the sensor on right. What else do you guys think it could be?
 
Ok, thats what i figured. I just never read any one straight answer about it. How would you know if it's off? I've read some people do it 180 and it makes no difference. Makes me wonder if maybe thats why i had to adjust soooo far to get it in time again.

Well if you are trying to get it to start and it is firing 180 degrees off it is going to be fighting the piston traveling up.

I don't think I have ever heard of someone doing it backwards and actually having it run correctly. I suppose its possible on different models though.
 
Ill try turning the timing marks on the sensor 180 and see what happens. that would be realy weird if it work but its a good idea. I checked the spark earlyer and its good.
 
OP, is it almost like dead battery style not firing? Because you could have gotten your alt messed up, or your maf.

Doesn't explain the binding though. Unless the battery voltage drops too low to give the starter power, but then he would have to charge it and try again. I assume by the way his post was that he doesn't charge it.

What marks on the cas did you line up?
 
No I have not need to charge it. My buddy watched the motor as I turned it over and he said it would turn over then spring back the other direction. I lined the two lines on the CAS, the one on the axle and one on the casting.
 
I Just found out on RRE the the custom wire harness made by them should be routed away from noise making devices such as coil and other things like that. If worst comes to worst I will check the timming belt but I dont see how I could have jumped from what I was doing.
 
Yeah I know. Im not going to throw that idea out the window. I'm just thinking It should at least run, just like crap. Thats what keeps telling me It most likly is not the case. But I will check it if dosent run from the other thing we came up with.
 
Moved the routing of the ISC wire harness and checked all timing, It all looks perfect. still no start. I am planing on checking the ISC then I guess I will have to buy a non-eprom ECU and see if thats it, unless any one out there knows how to test an ECU. thanks.

Dan
 
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