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Spyder GS Hesitation

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Viper588

15+ Year Contributor
131
1
Oct 4, 2006
manalapan, New Jersey
Ok so ive had the car for a while but stopped using it because i couldn't find the issue and didnt need the car at the time. So the background is i purchased the car and about 3 days later the issue started where once it got to operating temp the car would idle like crap. If i disconnected the maf the car would run great with poor gas mileage. I fixed a few things the biggest culprit being large exhaust leaks pre O2. The car will now idle ok with a very slight hesitation every once in a while but not really noticeable. When you begin to give it gas it will kinda bog down unless you feather the pedal a little and then bogs hard when you try and let the clutch up for first, once i get rolling in first and get to 1800 RPM the engine revs great without any problems and there are no issues in any other gears. While accelerating everything is fine and no hesitation but when trying to keep the speed steady and cruise there is a constant hesitation every few seconds. Im kinda stuck as to what to check next but somewhere in the process so far i have tried different MAF, coil, plugs, wires, swapped entire intake and throttle bodys, O2, ECU, and prob some other stuff im forgetting. If you have any suggestions id appreciate it! thank you!

Edit- I forgot to add that i do not get any CEL's while this is happening
 
Last edited:
I agree with checking for vacuum leaks. It might sound strange, but IMO a standard boost leak test (low pressure, leak-tester attached to throttle body) is a great way to find vacuum leaks.

What plugs/wires did you use? I would suggest nothing but NGK BKR5ES-11 plugs gapped to about .040" and whatever OEM wires you can afford, but preferably NGK wires. What brand/type O2 sensor did you install? Also, I assume it was the Front (right behind the oil pan) O2 sensor you replaced?

Lastly, when you swapped throttle bodies, did the you install your old Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) onto the new body? If so, try disconnecting the TPS plug and and go for a cruise around the block. If the car runs better without it, test the TPS and replace if necessary.
 
I agree with checking for vacuum leaks. It might sound strange, but IMO a standard boost leak test (low pressure, leak-tester attached to throttle body) is a great way to find vacuum leaks.

What plugs/wires did you use? I would suggest nothing but NGK BKR5ES-11 plugs gapped to about .040" and whatever OEM wires you can afford, but preferably NGK wires. What brand/type O2 sensor did you install? Also, I assume it was the Front (right behind the oil pan) O2 sensor you replaced?

Lastly, when you swapped throttle bodies, did the you install your old Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) onto the new body? If so, try disconnecting the TPS plug and and go for a cruise around the block. If the car runs better without it, test the TPS and replace if necessary.

Thank you for the suggestions! Ive tried a few different plugs out of desperation and i believe i used denso plugs? but i considering switching them back to the stock ones cause the first time i tried to pull the boot off the spark plug it separated. I did replace the front/upstream O2, i used a bosch "universal" type O2 where i cut the plu off the old O2 and used it, does this matter? I swapped the whole unit with all of the sensors still on it. I did end up solveing the problem today though i posted in the original thread but here is the resolution. Thank you for the response!

"Just wanted to post the solution, i fixed it today and passed inspection an hour later. It ended up being a problem with the fuel module? next to the drivers right leg mounted behind the plastic cover next tot the radio. I followed someones guide on how to bypass the module and splice the wires together to test it. Car runs great after the splice although he says i will lose 1-2 MPG with it like that so i plan to find a new module somewhere."
 
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