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Spark Plugs for 4G63T? [Merged 12-28-2021]

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TsiRacer93

Probationary Member
15
0
Aug 9, 2002
yea so my cars got like 100,000 miles on it, what are some good plugs to be using? i was thinkin bosh 4s but someone told me they would be bad for my car..
 
Strm Trpr said:
When I bought my car, I pulled these BPR6EKN out.
I can think of a couple ways to gap them, but I'm sure someone will tell me that they either can't be gapped, or are already gapped from NGK.

How do those run?
Do you use them?

I ran them for 6 months or so, then I switched to BPR6ES. Didn't notice any difference between them. For me, the BPR6ES is easier to find and cheaper, so I go with them.

I checked the gap on the BPR6EKN just like any other plug--slide the gauge between the tip and projector. Since the spark is "horizontal" instead of "vertical", the gauge needs to be close to parallel with the plug instead of perpendicular. Anyway, they are already gapped to the turbo engine's specs from NGK (0.029"-0.032"), but I always check to be sure. Although, it might indeed be a bi*** to try to change the gap.
 
Just to clear this up because there still seems to be some confusion about it. Stock DSM plugs are BPR6ES. Running more boost as was mentioned means that stepping up to a BPR7ES plug(a range colder than a 6 is necessary).
 
SHicksRUS said:
Just to clear this up because there still seems to be some confusion about it. Stock DSM plugs are BPR6ES. Running more boost as was mentioned means that stepping up to a BPR7ES plug(a range colder than a 6 is necessary).

In my Hanyes manual, BPR6EKN are listed as the sparkplug for the 4g63 2.0L turbo engine...... Your other comment is correct, the 7's are one heat range cooler....
 
Interestingly, I used to run BPR7ES, but they're hard to find and last time I needed plugs I just picked up the commonly available BP7ES. That may be when my strange knock problems started ocurring. I'll be changing them again this winter, we'll have to see... Appears now that you want to make sure to get a resistor plug, but I still have experiments to perform to confirm that... :)
 
Defiant said:
The resistor plug is for radio interference. Shouldn't have any effect on knocking at all.
and most plug wires also have protection against radio interference as well. i run bp7es with no radio interference problems
 
Since we seem to be straying quite off-topic, I'll chime in. :D Is there any advantage to running the non-resistor plugs?

And trying to get back on topic, I ran the BPR6EIX for several months and did notice smoother idle and stuff.
 
Im just wondering if anyone else has run into this. I am in the middle of doing an EVO 3 swap in 96 GST. Well we have the 2 engines sitting side by side on engine stands doing some compare and contrast. Well I pulled the spark plugs out the EVO engine and there was a very noticable difference. Every plug Ive seen for the 4g63 has been 13/16th. Well the plugs in the EVO engine were 5/8 and the only indicator number on the NGK R plug was a big blue 7. I figure this is referring to the heat range. There is also a small etched number R6004-7. Has anyone seen these? I tried to do a cross reference and the new number came up as R 7233-7. Everything Ive seen on that refers to an MR2. Can someone please help me I will post pictures in a couple days.
 
BPR7ES

are the ngk you should use, he only size difference is in the hex on the plug, were changing plugs on my friends 2g, and noticed that we had to use a different socket for the factory plug to get out and a larger one to get it in, i think the larger one to get it in was the 13/16
 
hmmm.... seems some people know about spark plugs here, while im here i might as well ask... is it ok to run bpr7es in my 2g turbo, if the boost setting is stock? i always figured the 6's were one range colder but never bothered to check and deserve a slap in the face for it.... I already have the 7's infront of me... if i did use the 7's should i still gap them at .028~.032?
 
Hey guys, when I went to pick up some plugs I had two options on the NGK's standard and V-Power, the standards hold the model number 6ES whereas the Vpowers are 6EY's...and is the .032 gap correct for 4g63 turbo's? The service manual states this is correct, but didn't know if you guys had any tips on it.


Josh :talon:
 
Defiant said:
7s are colder that 6s. You may have fouling issues on a stock setup with 7s. ....
I know people running 8's at 15-17 psi with no fouling/misfiring issues.

Jake
 
save you money and go with standard plugs... yeah I know... the more expensive plugs last longer... but do you really want to keep them in there that long...

0.028 - 0.032 will work for a 4G63
 
Hey I just my car's acting funny since I changed my spark plugs. So I guess it must be them. Was wondering why when I floor my pedal, my car goes up to around 4k rpm, then it loses power for like a fraction of a second going down to maybe 3.7k rpm then goes back up again. And it happens for a couple of times before I have to shift. It has to be my spark plugs. Oh I noticed the gap for my old spark plugs are very close together and these new ones are wider. Is that the problem? Oh btw I drive a 2g gsx. Could anybody help me out? Thanks!
 
talon1987 said:
did you gap the plugs to spec .28

Yeah that sounds like the problem.

BergayaJS - Spark plug gap must be set before they are installed. You cannot simply take them out of the box and throw them in. They have to be gapped correctly. .028 just like talon1987 said. You can get a spark plug gapper from Autozone for .99. :thumb:
 
I had the same problem, I also needed to install new, properly gapped spark plugs. Also, check the plug wires and boots. If these are bad a similar problem would result. Just another idea.

--Kyle :talon:
 
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