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Spark plug wire choices

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Lucas03es

10+ Year Contributor
285
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Jul 28, 2009
Las Vegas, Nevada
So I have three sets of wires sitting here in front of me, and I am trying to determine which set would be optimum.

ACCEL 8mm thundersport 150 ohm/ft.
Standard NGK ME64
VISION Power Core 10.2mm

Now, I have done some searching and I have read that the NGK and the ACCEL wires are both good, but I haven't read anything on the vision wires.

Also, I have a set of BPR6EIX iridium NGK's here with like 200 miles on them. Would it be okay to run these on my new motor, or should I go for a set of coppers? I have searched, and I can't find a definite yes or no answer to run these plugs. I appreciate any and all input, thanks guys!
 
Run the NGK wires, everything i have read they work the best. And id spring for a set of NGK V powers, or good ol' coppers. Ive seen where the iriduims actually create misfires.
 
Okay well then the general consensus is to run the NGK wires, and I will pick up a set of coppers for my build. I will hold on to the ACCELs for a backup set, and I might just sell or junk the Vision set. I appreciate the help guys
 
I use the exact same set of the Accel's actually replacing my previous NGK set (less ohms too which is better), kept misfiring and was determined to be the problem, 2 of them. Never had an issue since. Also run BPR7ES plugs, probably the best u can use with good amounts of boost (gapped accordingly).
 
Should I run 6 or 7 heat range plugs to break in the motor? Its a garrett hybrid t3/t4 and it will be running off wastegate pressure for break in
 
Should I run 6 or 7 heat range plugs to break in the motor? Its a garrett hybrid t3/t4 and it will be running off wastegate pressure for break in

Personally, i would stick with 7's and dont worry about "break in", break it in the way its gonna be driven or it will be nothing but problems down the road. When i built my motor (forged everything) and drove it the first time, I drove it a few minutes till it warmed up then went full boost (23psi at the time) all the way to 8500rpm a few times, it seats the piston rings better and properly making a tighter seal and will help them perform at top notch longer, less prone to leaks or blowby. I have yet to have any issues and thats how ive done my "break in" after every build. I'd go on explaining how or why it works better but you'd get bored reading.
 
Personally, i would stick with 7's and dont worry about "break in", break it in the way its gonna be driven or it will be nothing but problems down the road. When i built my motor (forged everything) and drove it the first time, I drove it a few minutes till it warmed up then went full boost (23psi at the time) all the way to 8500rpm a few times, it seats the piston rings better and properly making a tighter seal and will help them perform at top notch longer, less prone to leaks or blowby. I have yet to have any issues and thats how ive done my "break in" after every build. I'd go on explaining how or why it works better but you'd get bored reading.

My brother works on air planes. And when they do complete rebuilds or get new engines in them (flat 6cyls, etc, no jet engines) They break them in, by running them 100 rpm under redline (normally around 2900rpm), run it for abour 20 minutes, shut it down, then 10 minutes later. Start it back up again another 100rpms under redline. Till that motor stops burning oil. And then they hold up for a very very long flight time. They run those motors on up to 22% leak down sometimes.

Just though you guys would get a laugh out of that.

On a related note, I think im going NGK7s,from my ngk6s, cause my spark plugs always look like lean conditions. But its defiantly not that lean. Thats a sign to go to a colder plug right, from my understanding. And i still get a little stumbling.
 
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