Sounds like a Subaru, won't stay running

[BurrowZ]

Made a new thread because I did a little more work and research and made new discoveries.

LONG story short: Car won't run after head swap. Starts but won't run.

I believe it is the injectors not firing. I am getting spark (yes I checked, so don't waste my time by asking) and timing is dead on. I checked that for the 4th time this morning.

Pulled the fuel rail off the head and rotated my 1G CAS by hand. The injectors seemed to fire intermittently. It was tough to tell because they would not stay in the rail and the pressure kept pushing them out, resulting in fuel sprays everywhere.

Things tested and known to be working:
-Resistor pack
-Injectors (brand new)
-ECU (which is a 95 eprom, spark plugs swapped properly)

There is only one known issue with the car and that is that my battery does not hold a charge very long so when I try to start it I keep a battery charger running @40 amps on it. I'm stumped and honestly will a new battery be my solution? It ran fine and battery was fine 4 months ago the last time the car ran.

 

[DSM1G90]

.... what?

....don't worry about it.....you're doing fine.

 

[BurrowZ]

Alright I couldn't wait till morning so I quickly went out did it. Removed my intake manifold, took off the washer, put the manifold back on (yes I even checked the other side for a washer) and tightened her up.. it honestly doesn't seem to run any better.. it started up a little smoother than it did before, so I changed my spark plug wires around a bit but it seemed to run best at 3214.

Craig - attached is the log you requested. I hope it helps a little bit

 

[johnovision27]

Could you post another log without stepping on the throttle? Its kind of hard to see whats going on when you're constantly revving the motor. Unless it's doing that on it's own, in which case you have bigger fish to fry...

Off the bat, it looks like your ISC is doing something a little funky. Try following some steps in this video (not mine, but have used it to solve a bunch of idle issues)

Tuning 101 - tuning with the car off - YouTube

Be sure to watch the 102 and "extra credit" one aswell.

Post another log and we'll see whats going on.

 

[BurrowZ]

Could you post another log without stepping on the throttle? Its kind of hard to see whats going on when you're constantly revving the motor. Unless it's doing that on it's own, in which case you have bigger fish to fry...

Off the bat, it looks like your ISC is doing something a little funky. Try following some steps in this video (not mine, but have used it to solve a bunch of idle issues)

Tuning 101 - tuning with the car off - YouTube

Be sure to watch the 102 and "extra credit" one aswell.

Post another log and we'll see whats going on.

I will do that for sure in the morning. The only reason I kept hitting the throttle was to keep it alive.. I will watch the video. Thanks!

 

[johnovision27]

Post one of it stalling if you could. I just couldn't find a point where I could see the fuel flow, airflow, ICS, etc.

Just noticed your timing is off. Base setting to 5 deg across the map on the timing tab. Might not make that much of a difference, just trying to eliminate options.

Did it run fine before the head swap??

 

[BurrowZ]

Post one of it stalling if you could. I just couldn't find a point where I could see the fuel flow, airflow, ICS, etc.

Just noticed your timing is off. Base setting to 5 deg across the map on the timing tab. Might not make that much of a difference, just trying to eliminate options.

Did it run fine before the head swap??

Yeah it ran great with no problems, just had an exhaust leak because of a bunch of broken exhaust manifold studs which the EZ out broke off inside, so I needed a new head. Thought I bought a 2g head but it was a 1g so I needed to get a bunch of other necessary things.

So it also has a 1g Intake manifold, 1g TB, 1g Turbo water pipe and now a 1g CAS after I first suspected my CAS and CPS to be at fault.

Here's the log of it stalling.. I held the throttle as steady as I could this time just to keep it alive. It's super shaky, like it's running on two cylinders.

 

[BurrowZ]

I am still having this problem.

Small update, I got it running slightly but it was running somewhat rich. I used the safc to remove fuel as I was too lazy to go upstairs to get my laptop. Drove it around for a bit and it seemed fine, did a launch and all of a sudden my wideband read ---, super lean. And it STILL says lean, no matter how much fuel I add. So I figured it was just a bad sensor. Well, went to pull it out again and heard a whirring noise. It was my timing belt loose. Checked my timing and the belt was just slipping like nuts, so I just went ahead and pulled the head, valves seated fine, I did the "water test". None leaked.

Put the head back on and replaced all the gaskets (except for the head gasket.. which had 2 miles on it.. is that bad? It saw three heat cycles), I am fairly sure I have absolutely no leaks around my IM or EM.

Now whenever I start it it just runs what I believe to be lean. It misfires constantly and revs sluggishly while still misfiring, however it seems to make it to 4k just fine which is my launch limiter.

I have my stock boost gauge set to knock and it starts to rise at 2k rpms. I don't smell fuel which is why I believe it to be lean. What could cause this? Walbro was new last year. I am no longer using an AFPR since I did the fuel siphon mod.

What else could this be? I will try to get a log up ASAP. I really need this running before winter!

Here's a log. Strange I usually have to keep my foot on the throttle, but this time it kept itself alive (idk why it reads 4% throtpos..) when I do step on the gas you can tell. Smells really rich to me now.