Solid motor mount issues.

[16g-2ndgen]

Well, I have full poly inserts in my car. I have had issues with somewhat bad vibrations and just recently in my TSi fwd I had two trans to block bolts BREAK, chipping off a part of my upper block and breaking off the front dog ear. I have ross pistons/eagle rods and I had everything balanced, and the BSEK installed. I have been getting told that the reason that the bolts are backing out/backed out and shatterd was because of my motor mounts and the fact that I have the BSEK. First I looked to see if my dowelpins have gave out, and I know that those would cause bolts to break because they prevent most of the shear and trans movement. But they were intact. Has anyone ever heard of trans bolts just breaking? It was the back one and the top one closest to the firewall. I am having everything fixed as we speak I just dont want to go through this again. I would remove the inserts but it is a fwd car that fully build with a 60 trim and I will have wheel hop like a MOFO. This is the 3rd time this car has broken a dog ear off the block because of this problem. I just want to know what is causing this and how I can approach to fix this. Swapping blocks gets old. .

 

[eagle_talon90]

I've bin running solid motor mounts on my FWD with a built up 2.3l motor for a few years now and its been fine, no problems at all. I as well have the BSEK too!

 

[PIMking]

I had/have the poly inserts and about every bolt has viberated loose or fell out (axle bolts that hold on the Drivers axle to the block.) So I put in stockers on the top ones. The one next to the timing belt and the one that hold the trans to the body.

I left the front and rear mount in.

I only had the chance to see what it was like with the stock mount next to the Timing belt and the vibrations were almost gone!

So I got tired of how loud it was in the car and not being able to see out of my mirrors.

It also broke one of my trans to motor bolts viberated one more out causing my trans to be about 1/4 of an inch away from the block.

It also caused some of my manifold bolts to come loose too.

I hate those damn things.

 

[PIMking]

I would drop your trans to check out the clutch just incase. Mine had chips all over the pressure plate fingers so a new clutch is on its way.

 

[16g-2ndgen]

I would drop your trans to check out the clutch just incase. Mine had chips all over the pressure plate fingers so a new clutch is on its way.

I broke the bolt that goes into the back of the transmission, and the top bolt also. In result i have snapped off the front dog ear, and sheared off the top part of the block where the bolt goes. Pretty narly. I had to pull the trans/motor. Im lucky i didnt destroy my new clutch and my input shaft. Im going to install stock mounts besides the top right one.

EDIT: I have recieved a PM from a very helpful member on here that showed me a trick that has worked in the past with him that helps prevent the bolts from backing out. If anyone has any problems with it I can foward the message to you. Thanks for the help EPA nightmare!

 

[PIMking]

Fwd that off to me.

I have used lock tite + lock washers = nothing.

I didn't like the vibrating noise either

 

[Weapon-X]

Nord-Lock washers work great for bolts that are persistant with backing off.

Nord-Lock - Maximum security for bolted joints - Home

It starts adding up price-wi$e, but well worth it in the long run.

 

[Redfwdsm]

only time ive ever seen bolts on a mitsu tranny fail where in this kids car i know his bolts broke and he spun the trany..
yeah i know your all like WTF well im guessing he didnt bolt the tranny to the mount but the mount was in there

 

[16g-2ndgen]

Nord-Lock washers work great for bolts that are persistant with backing off.

Nord-Lock - Maximum security for bolted joints - Home

It starts adding up price-wi$e, but well worth it in the long run.

Those sure do look pricy, but hell might as well look into those. Im sure it would be cheaper to get something like that other than replacing blocks/machine work/bearings/rings/gaskets!