2G Smoke issue

[Travis K]

Sorry guys I have read a lot on here and there are a couple different ways I think this could go so just asking for opinions I have a 99 gst the car has a fresh stock turbo rebuilt by boost labs and has been running great when the car is in park and revved when the rpms start to come down I get white smoke doesn't smell like coolant or oil but smells rich like exhaust at normal idle it's fine driving is fine boosting is fine only setting in park when revved not losing coolant not loosing oil the previous owner installed an hks blow off and didn't recirculate it I am order the adapter and hose could that be the issue I'm just stumped on why it's only in park when revved not at idle or during normal or hard driving conditions the turbo is still good no play and no smoke when spooling or after could this also maybe be a pvc issue

 

[spyderdrifter]

Since the BOV isn't recirculated, do you still have the oem MAF? I would check the PCV system as well to make sure there isn't a clog somewhere.

 

[Travis K]

Since the BOV isn't recirculated, do you still have the oem MAF? I would check the PCV system as well to make sure there isn't a clog somewhere.

Yes it is the oem MAF I've ordered the adapter and hose to recirculate it but have driven it for a couple months without issue smoke just started about a week ago

 

[DogWhistle]

Is this when arriving at your destination, or on start-up?

 

[Travis K]

Is this when arriving at your destination, or on start-up?

Doesn't matter I can drive for as long as I want come home put it in park rev it and still have smoke but it will do it at startup too

 

[Patchez_]

first of all it is going to run a little more rich in park rather than moving down the street because when you are moving you are putting a load on the motor in park there is no load which can cause more unburned fuel when reved. you could also have some valve slop or worn valve stem seals excessive crank case pressures from poor rings bad PCV or all of that. why the turbo replacement did one die on that motor or an upgrade\update? is the stock oil line being used or was it upgraded?

 

[Travis K]

first of all it is going to run a little more rich in park rather than moving down the street because when you are moving you are putting a load on the motor in park there is no load which can cause more unburned fuel when reved. you could also have some valve slop or worn valve stem seals excessive crank case pressures from poor rings bad PCV or all of that. why the turbo replacement did one die on that motor or an upgrade\update? is the stock oil line being used or was it upgraded?

The old on one was shot

 

[Travis K]

first of all it is going to run a little more rich in park rather than moving down the street because when you are moving you are putting a load on the motor in park there is no load which can cause more unburned fuel when reved. you could also have some valve slop or worn valve stem seals excessive crank case pressures from poor rings bad PCV or all of that. why the turbo replacement did one die on that motor or an upgrade\update? is the stock oil line being used or was it upgraded?

The old on one was shot stock oil line as well

 

[Patchez_]

i blew a stock turbo on my talon and it took me allot of flushing to get all of the metal out of the motor. so i ran it after replacing the turbo knowing that i had made all of the tolerances in the motor and oil pump allot more than they were stock and it lasted me 8 months but towards the end you could hear the bottom end when it was cold just a little (not lifter tick) one day took it out and spun a rod bearing so now i got allot of parts and most are trashed. moral of the story smaller turbos usually damage the engine when blown and if you dont at least replace the oil pump when you change a blown turbo your rings and lower end take more of a beating over time afterword. i would consider a complete rebuild or better used motor if i were in your shoes, when i changed my turbo i upgraded to the big t28 and left boost stock i changed the turbo due to shaft play, cracked waste gate housing and smoke at idle and down the road. ive seen cars smoke at startup due to valve stem seals leaking or fuel pressure regulators leaking into the intake after car is turned off. could also still have oil in your intake, inter cooler or exhaust. one way to get an idea of engine health is to leakdown, do a compression test and check crankshaft end play. the end play will tell you more with a standard transmission car with out having to completely disassemble the engine .005 to .007 is the tolerance and .009 is the max before hitting the crank trigger the spec is .003

 

[4g63popo]

Have you taken your intercooler out and cleaned it.. It can take a long while to burn oil out of one normal driving after a blown turbo.

 

[Travis K]

Have you taken your intercooler out and cleaned it.. It can take a long while to burn oil out of one normal driving after a blown turbo.

No I haven't definitely probably should do that I did notice when I took the air intake apart I had a very small trace of oil in it looke like it came from the hose that runs from the side of the valve cover pulled the hose definitely seemed like there was a little oil getting in it would that be pvc related

 

[Travis K]

i blew a stock turbo on my talon and it took me allot of flushing to get all of the metal out of the motor. so i ran it after replacing the turbo knowing that i had made all of the tolerances in the motor and oil pump allot more than they were stock and it lasted me 8 months but towards the end you could hear the bottom end when it was cold just a little (not lifter tick) one day took it out and spun a rod bearing so now i got allot of parts and most are trashed. moral of the story smaller turbos usually damage the engine when blown and if you dont at least replace the oil pump when you change a blown turbo your rings and lower end take more of a beating over time afterword. i would consider a complete rebuild or better used motor if i were in your shoes, when i changed my turbo i upgraded to the big t28 and left boost stock i changed the turbo due to shaft play, cracked waste gate housing and smoke at idle and down the road. ive seen cars smoke at startup due to valve stem seals leaking or fuel pressure regulators leaking into the intake after car is turned off. could also still have oil in your intake, inter cooler or exhaust. one way to get an idea of engine health is to leakdown, do a compression test and check crankshaft end play. the end play will tell you more with a standard transmission car with out having to completely disassemble the engine .005 to .007 is the tolerance and .009 is the max before hitting the crank trigger the spec is .003

Mine just blew a seal I didn't notice any metal when I had everything torn apart and the turbo itself wasn't damaged other than the seals it just got oil everywhere after the rebuild everything was fine I took the air intake apart yesterday noticed a very small amount of oil in it looke like it trickled down from the hose that runs from the side of the valve cover and that hose has some oily residue could it be a sticking pcv valve

 

[PlanZero]

No I haven't definitely probably should do that I did notice when I took the air intake apart I had a very small trace of oil in it looke like it came from the hose that runs from the side of the valve cover pulled the hose definitely seemed like there was a little oil getting in it would that be pvc related

Yes you should have a catch can or at least an inline fuel filter between the valve cover and intake. Some people used to put a little breather filter on the vc and just seal the nipple on the intake, but nowadays we know better.

 

[Travis K]

Yes you should have a catch can or at least an inline fuel filter between the valve cover and intake. Some people used to put a little breather filter on the vc and just seal the nipple on the intake, but nowadays we know better.

Yeah I knew the breather filter idea was bad from searching around on here definitely looking at doing a catch can setup