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slow cranking at times

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Abe'sGST

10+ Year Contributor
734
2
Aug 27, 2011
Goldsboro, North Carolina
When i first bought my car, when i wanted to turn it on, it had a longer crank than my other eclipse did. My starter went bad this winter so i replaced it about a month ago. Car fires right up most of the time, but sometimes it has a slow crank and when it decides to turn on it feels like it's going to stall for a second. Do you guys know of anything that it can be? I tested the battery and it's a fully charged good battery.
 
When was the last time your plugs/wires were swapped?
I'm from Ontario, so this time of year, slow cranks are completely normal. The battery may have a full charge, but have you tested to see whether or not the battery has all of it's cells in working order? That will severely limit the amps put to the started on startup, thus limiting the torque put out, and causing a slow crank.
See if you can take it to some auto shop as ask them to test the battery, or if you have AAA, call them over and ask for a test.
 
When was the last time your plugs/wires were swapped?
I'm from Ontario, so this time of year, slow cranks are completely normal. The battery may have a full charge, but have you tested to see whether or not the battery has all of it's cells in working order? That will severely limit the amps put to the started on startup, thus limiting the torque put out, and causing a slow crank.
See if you can take it to some auto shop as ask them to test the battery, or if you have AAA, call them over and ask for a test.

I changed my plugs and wires a few months ago...here at work we have a battery tester and it's a good one, only guess I have is that its a 450 CCA bettery and it may need to be more CCA?
 
Test the voltage on the black/yellow stater (ign) wire thats on top of your starter. I had a very similar issue with slow cranking, it was that wire only got 7-8v vs 12v its suppose to have.
 
Test the black/yellow wire when someone is holding the key on 'start'.
 
Voltage will normally drop when amps are being pulled from the battery - doesn't stay constant.

(What I wish DSM would have done with the gauge set .. was to add a voltmeter in the cluster ,when you hit the key, the voltage drops normally until start, then swing back up to show the alternator doing its thing)

Get the battery tested, it may prove good from the beginning when you do the test, but loses current real fast - you need those high cranking amps....

..or, try another battery.
 
I'm using a Wal-mart, $32 buck battery ... been in the vehicle, along with a reman alternator install for 3 yrs with no problems. CCA's at 600A.

Course, I completely rebuilt the connectors with replacing with new battery connectors and keeping things copper and lead clean and tight....and no added mod wiring to the system-like it was when I got the car 4yrs ago.

Thing was loaded with so much crap wiring shit that I had a "hay-day" removing all of that shit and getting it back to where it could operate as a car should.
 
im pretty sure my batter is like 575 cca that could be your problem but so could alot of other thing like you got a falty starter and the motor is going bad in it
 
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