Shut off the car came back and it wouldn't start just cranks over.

[whiteboyz]

Shut off the car came back and it wouldn't start just cranks over. and the funny thing is everything works as in the lights etc. but the windows and sunroof wont shut... so my car is chillen at a not so good place with the windows wide open. and it just wont start just cranks and cranks and cranks. this is confusing the hell out of me. if any one has any suggestions that would be great. thank you

 

[Sam@RRE]

Something to do with the ignition. You can't roll the windows up or down unless the key is in the "on" position. The ECU wont turn on unless its in the "on" position. The key going to "on' position is what turns on the MPI relay. So leads me to believe there is something wrong with your ignition switch. When you turn the key past on into the start position it powers up the starter, but the ECU is not on, thus car wont start. You can get it to start by jumping the switch sides of the MPI relay (bolted to the center console near where the passengers left knee/calf would be (depending on how tall your passenger is). The MPI relay is two relays put together so you will have to jump both the fuel pump part of the relay and the ecu part of the relay.

 

[DeadsEvolution1]

Fuse blown for the windows??? As for the not starting you have a few possibilities. You need to check to see if you are getting fuel. Easiest way is to unbolt the 2 10mm bolt and crank the car over make sure fuel is comes out, check your transistor plug that goes to the coils and make sure it's plugged in, arc the spark plug wires on the valve cover for spark, and next check your timing marks make sure it's aligned right. Good luck

If not use a friend AAA membership

 

[gorf]

doesn't say in your profile....

Do you have a SAFC? I had the same problem, only way I could get it to start was to bypass the safc. The plug inside of the safc came loose.

 

[t25fury]

im not the greatest in the electrical area of cars but if its cranking that rules out the starter, battery, and maybe the alternator.
id recommend checking your distributor and maybe your fuses

there are no distributors on these cars,to the op, a basic rule of thumb is you need spark, fuel and compression for an engine to run(oxygen is a given),remove any spark plug from the head and ground the tip on any metal part of the car(valve cover will work) keep the spark plug cable conntected,have someone try and start the car, watch for arcing(grab the plug by the rubber boot or it will wake you up!) if its arcing,the you have spark.To check for fuel(be carefull with this procedure)remove the fuel return hose from the fuel pressure regulator,have someone turn the ignition key to the "on" position,if fuel squirts out then you have fuel. I assume the car was running before this happened so your compression should be ok, i second the notion that you have a fuel related issue(probably your fuel pump is out)

*edit* fooey , Deads beat me to it

 

[whiteboyz]

doesn't say in your profile....

Do you have a SAFC? I had the same problem, only way I could get it to start was to bypass the safc. The plug inside of the safc came loose.

there was once an safc in the car from the previuse owner, but the only thing left was the harness and all the cut and spliced wires going to the ecu. but the harness is no longer hooked up to the ecu. and we have all thewiring sorted out to theecu. as we used diagrams from alldata.

 

[whiteboyz]

Something to do with the ignition. You can't roll the windows up or down unless the key is in the "on" position. The ECU wont turn on unless its in the "on" position. The key going to "on' position is what turns on the MPI relay. So leads me to believe there is something wrong with your ignition switch. When you turn the key past on into the start position it powers up the starter, but the ECU is not on, thus car wont start. You can get it to start by jumping the switch sides of the MPI relay (bolted to the center console near where the passengers left knee/calf would be (depending on how tall your passenger is). The MPI relay is two relays put together so you will have to jump both the fuel pump part of the relay and the ecu part of the relay.

Wow that is alot hehe, so this could cause no spark or fuel ? hmm i will have to look for it in the a.m.. thank you very much. i will try this and see if it works. this car has been nothing but a pain in the rear since i got it. a big ol money pit. but i love it.

 

[Sam@RRE]

Chances of blowing a fuse for your windows and no spark and fuel at the same time are 1 in a million. ECU and power windows have nothing to do with each other. You can pull your ecu out of the car and still roll your windows up.

Check this and return with results. Turn your key to the on position. Watch for the CEL light to come on for 5 or so seconds and shut off. If the ECU is getting power, then it will do this. If it doesn't then you aren't getting power to the ECU due to ignition switch (electrical part inside the key mechanism that turns the car on) probably a bad contact. Or MPI relay (not too sure if it is in junction with the windows)

Also you don't need to take off the 10mm bolts to check for fuel in the rail, just take off the return line and crank for a second.

Im almost 100% positive its the ignition switch.

1: no fuel AND spark. If it was a crank or cam sensor, you will still have either fuel or spark.

2: power windows down roll up or down, on BOTH sides at the same time. Its either A- fuse (rare unless a window motor jams or shorts) or B- ignition switch not on(forgot to put your key in or switch broken)

3: The fuel pump test will confirm it (mention above about disconnecting fuel return line) If you crank it with the line off, it should spray fuel all over the place (pump turned on). The pump is a simple circuit also, MPI relay sends power to pump. Chances of both relays in the MPI relay unit burning out at the same time is slim to none. SO if the pump turns on, then its an MPI relay (highly doubt it) if not, ignition switch. The ECU triggers the fuel pump portion of the MPI relay.


Obviously you wont get either fuel or spark when the ECU is not turning on. Otherwise all the 1G guys with dead ECU's or dead MPI relay will push start their cars and home without an ECU

 

[whiteboyz]

I pulled the return line off and tried to start it and no fuel came out. so then i did the check cell light with the key on and nothing..no cell light. so then i started to wiggle it and the ignition switch is very loose all floppy. so i think you are right. is there anyway to bypass the ignition switch?(probably a dumb question) advance auto had to order the switch. so i should get it tomorrow. oh i ave another question my bud's said i am missing the manifold differential pressure switch.. what is that and is it bad to run with out one? and thank you very very much.

 

[Sam@RRE]

You can bypass the ignition switch. At first I wasn't going to post this because really I'm giving out info on how to hot wire a 2G.
But there is a tone of more missing info, with this people can start the car but wont be able to drive it (steering wheel lock)

Since you have a key you can drive it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Here you have a diagram of the ignition switch connector. This is looking into the female side of the connector on the ignition switch (or back side of the male connector comming from the car harness)

In order to get the ignition to turn on, you need to run a jumper from:
+12V pin#1 to pin#2
+12V pin#1 to pin#4
and
+12V pin#1 to pin#6

Or you can connect #2,4,6 together and connect all of them to one side of a toggle, and then other side of the switch connect to pin1 and be all cool guy pilot man race car with a toggle ignition.

This will simulate having the key in the on posistion. At this point you should be able to roll your windows up and down again.
Turn the key to start and the car should start.

Step 2: Call the police and report your car stolen
Step 3: Drive....Drive fast. I want to see you on breaking news.
Step 4: Run out of gas, they get you guns drawn, and find out you are the owner of the car.

 

[whiteboyz]

Yeah, that would be fun. ok I'm gonna give it a try, and thank you soooo very much. i will let you know how it all works out. oh and did you see where i posted about the mdp sensor? just wondering about it. i added it in my last post. thank you

ok here is my delema, i unpluged the harness coming from the ignition switch, and there is only 5wires. there isnt nothing in the #1 spot as showed in your diagram. hmm i hate my car.there is a blue wire and 4 other wires and that is it. i looked around and didnt see another wire laying around. since there is nothing in #1 could i just hook it to a constant 12v source or no? say the battery? thanks ~Brian

 

[Sam@RRE]

You must be looking at it backwards. There is only supposed to be 5 wires. Pin#3 has nothing in it. Also, make sure that you leave the connectors connected to each other when you jump it, otherwise it wont work. (you can jump it and reconnect it also)

 

[whiteboyz]

dude you are the man. you were 100% right. i can not thank you enough.

 

[Sam@RRE]

you're welcome. So it started up and its good? Now call the police and run!!

 

[whiteboyz]

Yes it does.
now i just have to figure out what a manifold difrential pressure sensor is and if it is ok not to have one, as mine is missing .

 

[JusMX141]

It should be right in the center on top of the intake manifold on your car.

...and why is it missing?

 

[whiteboyz]

ye it's not there, just the hole for it is there, and dont know why it's missing. it was there last week. . the bolts are gone as well. but i dont know what it does, do i really need it?

 

[Sam@RRE]

You dont need it. Its just there to check to see if your EGR still works. Its just an emissions part, has nothing to do with fuel control or anything. But you do need to plug that hole.

 

[JusMX141]

ye it's not there, just the hole for it is there, and dont know why it's missing. it was there last week. . the bolts are gone as well. but i dont know what it does, do i really need it?

Ummm, yeah you need it...to fill the hole in the manifold more than anything else.

Of all the parts for someone to possibly steal from your car, the MDP sensor would be last on my list of suggestions. People are strange.

 

[whiteboyz]

You dont need it. Its just there to check to see if your EGR still works. Its just an emissions part, has nothing to do with fuel control or anything. But you do need to plug that hole.

oooo ok, i got my egr blocked off. so now i got to plug that hole up .... damn people..