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Serious issue...I hope not.

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Anachrome

Proven Member
39
4
Oct 8, 2014
Mulberry, Indiana
Today, I drove 2 hours to purchase a 1990 Eagle Talon Tsi Awd.
before I looked at the car, I knew the following:

Had a new clutch, just needed bled.
asthetic issues
no power steering.

The seller lived in an extremely urban area, and I wasn't able to get up past 30 in our test drive due to stop signs, etc.
I knew the clutch had an issue simply because it went straight to the floor. Anyways he wanted 1500 for it, and I was like nope.jpg. Ended up getting it for 1080. What a steal right?
Nope.
On the way home, I filled up with premium just because I know turbos love them some premium. As I was filling up the filler neck was slightly leaking...Yay.
As I went on, I "assumed" that the slow take offs were due to the clutch issue, and I didn't think anything of it. Once I got to 60, whatever, it was a fairly simple ride. My buddy was leading in my car. However when he'd pull away, I'd try to accelerate and as I would accelerate the car would rev....think about it...and then I'd feel something bump underneath me and I'd start to go.

After 2 grueling hours of no PS, a bad clutch, and the rain. I got home. Parked it, and headed to work. After work my friend came over and we decided we'd park it at my dads so I could do the power steering pump swap. It came with a bunch of random parts, including a "new PS pump" and another clutch from a laser RS.
After letting her warm up for about 8 minutes or so, I back up, and theres a slight incline from the driveway to the road. I couldn't get up the incline. After my friend pushed me up that incline, I popped it into second, and just tried to go. It was midnight, (ie an hour ago) so I kept the revs low-ish, but I still went about 5mph. I stopped, put it in first, and was able to get to 15 or 20, at about 5k. I went into second, kept the speed. went for 3rd, and hit 35, where I was able to go no faster. after a bit, I went for 4th, and started slowing down. peaked at about 7k revs for a bit, trying to get it to go, downshifting to first, my buddy stopped me. The intake was cherry hot, and smoking. Needless to say, we let her cool down for about 20m, and tried again. After I got back to 25, I didn't get anywhere, so I parked it. 50 minutes later, and I made it 3.5 miles. How was I able to drive 89 miles one way, at speeds around 55-70, and yet now I can't get out of a simple incline.


My concerns:
My buddy was able to smell burnt clutch from his car. My thoughts: The clutch isn't disengaging, and I'm just burning the hell out of it.
Could this also be a transfer case/transmission issue?

Some information about the car:
158k miles
rebuilt head within the last 8ishk miles, as 2 previous owners before tried to freeboost 30psi in it. After rebuilding the head, the shop he frequented threatened to cut him off of rebuilds if he didn't remove manual boost controller. The most recent owner then put it back on, and ran it at 15psi.
Its got an aftermarket air intake
"new clutch just needs bled"
And I've got an extra ps pump that is supposed to be good, along with a second clutch and pressure plate.

Guys, I've been lurking here as I've wanted an AWD for the winter, to save wear and tear on my Scion TC, and after finding this one, I figured it'd be fairly solid. I assumed the slow starts were from the clutch. Would a clutch hurt the ability to go anywhere, that badly? Or could it be a tranmission/transfer case issue. I appreciate any and all help.
 
My friendly backyard mechanic ( dad), messed with things with me, and he said it was 100% a toast clutch. Recommendations on replacement clutches:
Looking for a solid stage 2 that isn't really really expensive. And I'm probably going to just grab an aluminum flywheel while I'm in there.

After bleeding the clutch, (which is a real bi***), it didn't really change anything, and the pedal is still spongey. So today, I'm getting down and dirty with pulling the transaxle and getting everything ready to pull the clutch. Also, any special tools I might need to align the clutch/flywheel?
 
T-bolt clamps are the best!! I wouldn't use anything else! You can get like 10-20 pack on Amazon for a good price and they are very good clamps. I get mine that way and havnt had a single issue with them! Like these and zinc coated so they won't rust!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H3...qid=1412885485&sr=8-25&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Dead on with that statement man! Same here.[DOUBLEPOST=1413165274][/DOUBLEPOST]
Question for anyone who can answer!
I have a 98 GSX and when I go from a stop to a go, my clutch isn't grabbing onto first gear. if you hold the gear stick there, it grinds. sometimes it will smoothly go into gear but other times it won't. I'm not sure what the issue is with it. :( I've had ppl recommend adjusting the clutch pedal. some say possible throw out bearing. Any suggestions???? I also had another question. I was looking in the hood and took my spark plug cover off, and there seems to be oil in that area. Is it possible that the gasket valve covers need to be replaced?
Sorry that I'm posting on your post. I can't post my own since I just joined and this group sounds really helpful!!!
I had that oil problem. It was the seal in the oil cap gone bad. Got a new one and no more oil.
 
^^ or alittle trick I've learned that works! Remove the old gasket out of the oil cap carefully. Then take some grey or black rtv and make a bead around the whole inside of the oil cap. Then simple install the old oil seal back in (I like to flip it over and use the other side) doesn't really matter just me LOL. Then isntall like normal, you might want to wait 10-20 min for the rtv to set alittle. Be sure not to use to much your just using it to push the gasket against the valve cover and seal again! I've actually done it to all my caps and havnt had a issue yet, it makes it seal nice and tight! ;)

Also it could be the seals for the the spark plug tubes are dry rot and pushing oil. Best to get a new gasket kit or try to tighten all the valve cover bolts again. Make sure they are all torque to spec! IF you do the valve cover make sure to get the half moon seal, it doesn't always come with the valve cover gasket kit.

And for your clutch issue, start with adjustment check, fluid check, bleed the clutch, inspect master and slave cylinders for leakage, and remove inspection cover and see what it looks like. If it continues and non of that helps you may need to remove the trans and inspect further
 
Last edited:
about halfway done with transaxle removal. I went ahead and just bought a oem clutch replacement at a local autoparts store. It'll do for now. I did buy a lightweight flywheel, for 250+ ship for her. I woulda went further on the transaxle removal but my dad didn't have the 1 1/4 socket to remove the half shaft holding bolt. So she'll have to wait until this weekend. Feeling better about wrenching on something myself. The last project I worked on, was my 1986 ninja 1000r.

I figure this winter, I'll hoard parts, and next spring probably end up looking for a donor body. The car has a lot of underbody rust I started noticing as I got under her. Trying to stick jackstands on the jack point for the tire, caved it in. So we're a bit rusty, LOL.
 
Can't escape the rust here! I have cancer on both of the towers, 2/3 of my eclipses both of which were from this area had it. My First DSM from Cali did not, and I would have never parted with it if it wasn't for the military.
Think I broke 3 bolts in total removing the drivers ground effect piece, drivers quarter panel, and mud flap. I think the cheapest metal ever created was used on our cars! I plan on finding a shell from down south/west and swapping everything, cheaper then fixing the rust.
 
Dead on with that statement man! Same here.[DOUBLEPOST=1413165274][/DOUBLEPOST]
I had that oil problem. It was the seal in the oil cap gone bad. Got a new one and no more oil.
okay, perfect. thank you for the suggestion.[DOUBLEPOST=1413405234][/DOUBLEPOST]
^^ or alittle trick I've learned that works! Remove the old gasket out of the oil cap carefully. Then take some grey or black rtv and make a bead around the whole inside of the oil cap. Then simple install the old oil seal back in (I like to flip it over and use the other side) doesn't really matter just me LOL. Then isntall like normal, you might want to wait 10-20 min for the rtv to set alittle. Be sure not to use to much your just using it to push the gasket against the valve cover and seal again! I've actually done it to all my caps and havnt had a issue yet, it makes it seal nice and tight! ;)

Also it could be the seals for the the spark plug tubes are dry rot and pushing oil. Best to get a new gasket kit or try to tighten all the valve cover bolts again. Make sure they are all torque to spec! IF you do the valve cover make sure to get the half moon seal, it doesn't always come with the valve cover gasket kit.

And for your clutch issue, start with adjustment check, fluid check, bleed the clutch, inspect master and slave cylinders for leakage, and remove inspection cover and see what it looks like. If it continues and non of that helps you may need to remove the trans and inspect further
oh okay. Well, I get those things checked and go from there. thank you!
 
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