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SBR 3500 fells like ACT 2900lbs....

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I-luv-em-all

15+ Year Contributor
602
5
May 25, 2004
Regina,
I just got my car back from a complete motor rebuild, and of course new SBR 3500 clutch and a resurfaced flywheel.

The mechanic working their was wondering about that clutch, because he said he stalled 3 times getting out of the garage :confused: . Then when I got in I was like whoa, that is not right.

I read that sbr 3500 review, and the first post the guy said his grandma could drive it, their is no way in hell my grandma could drive my car. It engages right off the floor and when it does it shakes everything/rattles everything, unless you let it out suuuuuper slow and have the revs around 2500.

I need some urgent help here, I need to break in my motor but don't want to drive like it's a left leg workout.
 
First thing you're going to want to do is adjust it. It shouldn't be engaging right off the floor. And I'm not sure what the issue is with the heavy feel. It should feel about the same as a stock clutch. Mine feels lighter than the ACT 2100 I had previously. So I'd say adjust it first and see how it feels then.
 
Maybe the flywheel isn't stepped correctly after the resurface? That situation seems strange I never had anything similar to that after installing mine. :dsm:
 
I-luv-em-all said:
Thanks for the link, my clutch might not be to heavy but since it grabs right off the floor it just may seem that way. I'll go and see if I can adjust it.
Do the adjustment! It sort of work for me but I have to do it again (My pedal is worm out and I want to change it first)
A tip: Is kind of hard getting under the steering wheel, so I removed the driver seat and I fit really comfortable. After that it is easy to work. It take some time taking the seat out, but it is worth at the end and no Headache. Try it.
Good luck
 
titogs95 said:
Do the adjustment! It sort of work for me but I have to do it again (My pedal is worm out and I want to change it first)
A tip: Is kind of hard getting under the steering wheel, so I removed the driver seat and I fit really comfortable. After that it is easy to work. It take some time taking the seat out, but it is worth at the end and no Headache. Try it.
Good luck
Hey thanks for the reply. When I tried to adjust it, my head pushed in the gas peddle to WOT and the seat was all the way back, and I still couldn't get it. I'll try taking out the seat.
 
I am pretty used to the clutch now, so I'm not too worried about adjusting it right away.

But my motor/tranny shakes when I let out the clutch from a stop. And sometimes when I put it in gear while I am still coasting it makes a clanking noise. From 3rd to 4th to 5th up shifting/downshifting is pretty much normal. The place that installed my motor won't be able to look at it till Monday. Do you think it is still wise to drive it in that condition? Because I still want to break in that new motor. Any thoughts, suggestions?
 
I-luv-em-all said:
I am pretty used to the clutch now, so I'm not too worried about adjusting it right away.

Make yourself worried about it.

It's not fully disengaging, so you're going to prematurely burn up your clutch disk like that.
 
Dont mean to hijack your thread, but im having the same shaking problem as you. Now you say it can and most likely be caused by loose tranny bolts? well on my tranny the front ear for the mount is busted off and i dont reeally know off hand where the rear mount is coud someone elaborate as to why that would cause it to shake violently?
 
suicidal2af said:
Make yourself worried about it.

It's not fully disengaging, so you're going to prematurely burn up your clutch disk like that.

I hope you read this quote!
 
I-luv-em-all said:
So if I adjust it the shaking will go away???

Yes, you are having clutch engagement problems that will result in premature clutch disc failure.

I noticed at the beginning of this thread that you had a shop do your motor and new clutch. It is a real pain getting to the clutch pedal adjustment on the end of master cylinder rod. There should have been absolutely no shutter, stalling, or clutch engagement right off the floor issue, when you picked the car up from the shop that did the work. It should be the shop's responsibility to do the adjustment once they installed the new clutch.

If you look at many threads in this forum a lot of people are having clutch engagement problems. They have ranged from master/slave cylinder problems, warnout clutch pedal assemblies, broken clutch forks, and or warn out fulcrums, etc., all ending up with results similar to what you're experiencing with your car.

If this is a task that you don't want to do yourself I would take the car back to the shop and have them do the adjustment... very soon :D
 
my pedal vibrates a little when its in gear and i rev or shift at about 6k rpm. i run the sbr3500 and I have had it for about 10k miles. AMS (very reputable shop) installed my clutch. shifts like butter and grabs like a no other. i love it except for the vibration i get.
 
My sbr3500 has started engaging right off the floor too, and I get vibrations going from 1st occassionally. Will an extended slave rod address the 'engaging off the floor' issue? I dont mean to hijack this at all. Im just having the same issues that I hope we can both solve.
 
Everyone has been have some sort of clutch engagement problem on this forum including me. In my case it was a warnout clutch assembly pedal (a real pain in the a$$ to fix). Some people have been extending their master and/or slave cylinder rods, shimming the clutch fork fulcrum (pivot ball), and bleeding and re-bleeding their clutch system.
In my case I extended the master cylinder rod as a temp fix which lasted 8 races. I eventually had to change the whole clutch pedal assembly because this is a real common problem with a 1G car after a lot of years of shifting. One guy extended his rod with a short lived success only to find the clutch fork broke in half two days later. There are only so many components in our exterior clutch engagement systems (which I have already discussed). You then have an interior fulcrum, clutch fork, throw out bearing, pressure plate, disc, and flywheel. There is no quick fix, it's just a matter of checking that each component is working.
 
fastasleep said:
Good advice. I guess tearing it down and checking things off the list is the only way to go about finding the exact problem and addressing it.


Thank you :thumb:

Greg
 
spades_gsx said:
my pedal vibrates a little when its in gear and i rev or shift at about 6k rpm. i run the sbr3500 and I have had it for about 10k miles. AMS (very reputable shop) installed my clutch. shifts like butter and grabs like a no other. i love it except for the vibration i get.
Nothing vibrates on my car. When I up shift everthing is fine. But starting from a stop my motor just shakes like their is no motor mounts at all or something. And if I am driving at say, 75 kms and let off the gas sometimes I can hear a rattling coming from the clutch/tranny area. All of these symptoms where non existent will my stock clutch.
 
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