S-AFC II tuning question... please help!

[Hondahunter_666]

I was looking at my S-AFCII that's in my newly bought 1991 Eagle Talon TSi and was checking out the correction factors for the fuel, and noticed they were all positive, and none negative. What would you all recommend for settings on my car with the following modlist:

Super 16G turbo, 550cc injectors, 3" mandrel bent intake pipe, Ported and polished head with 3 ang. grind, RRFPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump.

If anyone could give me some decent settings to try on the safc I would appreciate it because I realized just how rich the car is running when it's getting like 21 miles to the gallon freeway driving and I can almost watch the gas guage go down as fast as the boost guage goes up. I did some reasearch and noticed that everyone who had some corrections on their S-AFC were all going negative numbers rather than positive.... Please HELP!!!!

 

[spyderturbo007]

I hope you got a logger of some sort with the car. If not, that is the first thing you need to get. Go to www.pocketlogger.com. Well worth the investment. I don't feel comfortable giving you a basline adjustment without you have some type of feedback device.....i.e a logger. All cars are different and each require a different tune. This is based on actual injector flow, age of sensors, etc.

Side Note: The reason for the negative adjustment on the SAFC is the following. The ECU does not know that you have installed larger injectors and continues to open them for the same amount of time that it would the stock injectors (IPW = Injector Pulse Width). With larger injectors, more fuel is injected in the same amount of time compared to the stock injectors. The ECU will then receive feedback from the O2 sensor indicated a rich mixture. It will then cut the IPW trying to bring the air/fuel mixture back to the ECU's target. With larger injectors the ECU will continue to do this until it "corrects" the problem or the limits of the fuel trims are reached. If the limits of the FT's are reached, the ECU will then generate a DTC resulting in a CEL.

Others may disagree with my decision to not provide you with a baseline setting for the SAFC. I would suggest that you set the SAFC back to zero across the board and buy yourself a logger. You never know, you really might not have 550's and end up running really lean and banjack your motor.

 

[Hondahunter_666]

I actually do have a TMO datalogger in there, but that dang thing requires the use of a laptop to view and I just don't have one. But, setting those all back to zero would be okay? I mean if that will lean it back out a little bit in the lower rpm's then that's what I need because the thing is already at +10 correction at 1300 rpm's. I'll try that and let ya know what happens...

 

[karbon]

Sell the TMO and use the cash to get a pocketlogger, then head over to ebay and get a crappy PDA. A Palm iiic works GREAT for me, plus if you ever upgrade to DSMLink or something like that, it's the perfect PDA for it.
It's near impossible to recommend a baseline as every setup and car is different. Check out the AFC settings on www.roadraceengineering.com if you don't feel like doing your homework.

 

[DSMTalonAWD51]

yes go to roadraceengineering.com
If you have an air/fuel guage they have a method for tuning your lo's which works almost as good as a logger, and will get you your gas mileage back for daily driving. I just wounnt trust tuning your hi's without a logger.

 

[Hondahunter_666]

Well I managed to screw around with it and reduce a lot of the knock, got it back down to about 7-10 counts under full throttle, and 0-1 at idle, but still not quite there.. I wish I just had that laptop right now dangit. The guy I bought the car off of is going to trade me an old school laptop for my 1st gen S-AFC so I think I'll be good to go