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RWD Turbo 4g63/4g64 Wideblock Hybrid

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GonePostal

20+ Year Contributor
46
0
Jul 2, 2002
Oswego,
I'm interested in a RWD turbo 4g63/4g64 hybrid project, and perhaps there are some people that are familiar with the three engines. I plan to do this in a D50/Mighty Max truck and go this route for several reasons.

Facts:
88-92 D50/Mighty Max has 4g64 6 bolt wideblock bolt pattern
Transmission accepts stronger Starion/Conquest Internals
90+ D50/Mighty Max are Multi-port Fuel Injected
*4g63T head mates with 4g64 block*
Weight ~ 2500lb
91+ Towing Capacity ~ 3500lb

Personal Preferences:
4g64 over 4g63- while the 4g64 won't rev to 9k like the 4g63, the transmission won't shift that high anyways. The added displacement and broader torque range make a much better street truck.

Stock transmission- a toyota or other transmission may be better, it also adds the complexity of modifying transmission tunnles, fabricating adaptor plates, mounts, and mating odd clutch and flywheel combinations. While some would elect to use an automatic transmission here, that is their choice, and can be accomplished by using a narrowblock bolt pattern from an 84 D50 2.0L and mopar 904 transmission.

MPI over Carbureted(89 and older)- large market availability of existing DSM parts.

What has not been answered clearly is if the narrow FWD and wide RWD 4g64 block have any differences that would keep the 4g63 head from mating. I have heard of many people that went other routes using 4g63 wideblocks and 4g64 narrowblocks, but none that specifically went this route before. If all works as planned, it may prove to be the easiest and best approach of making any RWD turbo mitsubishi.
 
I'm doing a similar project but in an '87 Conquest. I used an 2.0L '89 MM/D50 tranny with Quest internals to make up the hybrid tranny. Check out

http://www.beatingyou.com/zerog/

For more info. I've got some of my stuff posted up there and should have more in a few weeks when I turn the key ;) This is also the begining for there's a G4CS 2.4L engine in the work for this as well.
 
904 Torque Flite automatic transmissions, indeed tuff and fairly light compared to Chevy TH350/400 it'll rob power just like all V8 auto trannies. But spooling the car up on the brakes, against the converter and launching with a trans brake would be sick. mainly for the fact that that trans will take every ounce of power you toss at it. I'd go auto, it would be like a mini grandnational. I think it would be fun!
 
asian312 said:
I'm doing a similar project but in an '87 Conquest. I used an 2.0L '89 MM/D50 tranny with Quest internals to make up the hybrid tranny. Check out

http://www.beatingyou.com/zerog/

For more info. I've got some of my stuff posted up there and should have more in a few weeks when I turn the key ;) This is also the begining for there's a G4CS 2.4L engine in the work for this as well.

Great, that was exactly what I was looking for.
 
asian312 said:
I'm doing a similar project but in an '87 Conquest. I used an 2.0L '89 MM/D50 tranny with Quest internals to make up the hybrid tranny. Check out

http://www.beatingyou.com/zerog/

For more info. I've got some of my stuff posted up there and should have more in a few weeks when I turn the key ;) This is also the begining for there's a G4CS 2.4L engine in the work for this as well.


What ever happend to you? My guess is you built something totally awesome and are just so happy running around with it you cant email or something.

And (if you havent noticed my hording all the WAY TOO REDUNDANT 2.4L posts lately.. I'm working on one too. Still hoping there is somebody out there that can do it first so I dont have to make any expensive mistakes again.

asian312... how about that super detailed write up on the tranny internal swap? I'm still waiting. I never even cleaned up the mess from my attempt.
 
Good news, I bought a 93 Mighty Max for $400 Sunday. The 7 bolt engine in it crankwalked, which is bound to happen when it has 180,000 miles on it, but the rest of the truck is in decent shape. The hard part is finding the right engine for it though, since none of the local junkyards that responded had a RWD 6 bolt wide block 4g64.
 
Sorry I fell out of the loop for a while. The car just got back from the paint shop a week ago and I'm pretty much where we last talked. I've got all the parts gathered, just need time to do it. With my new job and graduation, time is really hard pressed. I'll drop by the site sometime this week.

What do you want to know about the 2.4? There are 4 variations:

4G64
G4CS
4G63 w/ G4CS crank (2.3L)
Magnus (think its a 4G64 with custom rods fixing the problems with the rod ratio)
 
I'm back! I have my 4G64 wideblock in the basement now. Got in from one of the guys on the zerog board. Traded a 120k longblock for a head, crank, block, rods, odds and ends. Still need some parts that went along with the wideblock.. arg..

Its pretty neat. From a 90 D50... 6bolt. The wideblock bolt pattern is indeed the same as the stock 88 starion tranny. The flywheel is basically the same too... uses smaller clutch and pressure plate. Might be the same as a 4G63 pressure plate.

The rods have the little oil pinhole... I heard thats the same as turbo rods.

The main caps are not girdled or linked in anyway. Dont know if its worth the trouble to put 1G caps on it and line bore it. Any opinions would be great.

The oil pan is hardly baffled at all. Need a turbo one for sure.

All in all.. its going to be way expensive and stressful. But a 2.4 in a starion with a stock transmission setup will be pretty neat. It'll make my current 4G63 starion look wimpy.
 
Nice to see projects like these, a little outside the box. I finally completed my 1990 Dodge D50 4G63 head swap, turbo install, LSD rear end, and ECU & associated wiring. Here are a few pic's of the final product. I've found out recently the stock truck clutch was not designed for boost, so to help fund it's replacement I have some parts on Ebay here that might help you with your project.

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Front Mounted Water Outlet - Not the most effecient, but what could I do?!
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Jay
 
Good to hear. Right now I'm currently in the middle of swapping out the 93 7 bolt engine in my truck and dropping in a 90 6 bolt. I'm holding off the head swap for a later date, I just want to get this running.

Tonight I took off the front cover of the 6 bolt and eliminated the balance shafts. I highly suggest this to anyone that has the engine out of the car.

You have to knock out and reposition the two front shaft bearings, so the oil feed holes are blocked off. To get the far bearing out, just reverse the front shaft and knock it out with a hammer. To remove the other bearing, I used a half inch impact socket about 1.25". Just knock them back in so the feed holes no longer line up.

You also have to make a stub shaft to replace the rear shaft in the oil pump. Take the rear shaft and cut it to make a small stub shaft that connects to the oil pump. You'll have to plug up the end of the shaft with some JB weld since it's hallow, but be sure not to also plug the small feed holes the lubricate the shaft when turning in the pump. The last thing you have to do is to remove the front shaft seal and plug the hole with a freeze plug. Also make sure to plug the hole where the tensioner use to be. When you eliminate the balance shafts, there are two less things to worry about in your engine, and more power as well.

I also have to replace the timing belt components tomorrow, anyone what parts are the same as the 4G63?

Update: I got the 4g64 timing belt parts, the belt, tensioner, front cover and oil cooler gaskets from Hyundai. It's the same as a 91 Sonata 2.4L SOHC, and only cost me $40. The 4g64 front cover is for all pratical purposes identical to the 4g63 front cover, just swap on the 4g63 sprockets, pulleys, tensioner, belt, and head.

Oh, and just a little footnote: When installing a new throwout bearing, don't install the clutch fork backwards like I did, because you can't punch out the pins like that. Now I have to either cut the pins or cut the clutch fork, because they won't drill out.
 
Its great to see some other people doing this. Im fixing to start on an 87 conquest with an auto tranny. It will probaly use a longrod 2.4 and deffently an auto tranny. There is an adapter out for the turbo 400, but im also looking into the TQflight tranny. Polk Performance is in the middle of building his, he will be great in helping me when I get started.

I also looked into the D50 (still may not be out of the question, looks like one hell of a sleeper/street bruser). Keep up the good work guys and keep posting more info.
 
yeah im thinking of working on one of these trucks, because i do land surveying for a living and i need to haul around equipment and always wanted a truck... my talon doesnt exactly work for my job :p so i was wondering if i bought one of these trucks what steps would i need to do to convert it to have a 1g head and a 14b turbo setup...kinda like poorboyj's truck which btw i really like :) so i was wondering if anyone could tell me the steps they took concerns they have...thanks!
~jol
 
Just a warning to anyone considering the head swap: the lower deck height of the 4g63 head raises the compression ration to about 11-12:1 which is not streetable on pump gas. To correct this, use custom rods and pistons. Not cheap, but it will be done right.
 
GonePostal said:
Just a warning to anyone considering the head swap: the lower deck height of the 4g63 head raises the compression ration to about 11-12:1 which is not streetable on pump gas. To correct this, use custom rods and pistons. Not cheap, but it will be done right.

This is incorrect. The smaller cylinder head volume increases the compression ratio. Wiseco makes shelf pistons that will correct this for ~$400. You can use stock rods, since they are the same part (& part number) as turbo DSM rods, which have gone 500+ hp.

Jay
 
Poorboyj have you had your motor running yet? just wondering about front mount thermostat went, i'm still waiting for for a couple of parts and some machining to be done. I am making a tubular exhaust manifold an having the turbo mount above the manifold cause as i explained i have no room being RHD the td05h just misses now with the steering box and exhaust! I have purchased a holset hx35 just waiting on the bulleye housing to start the manifold. Mods to date:
4g64/4g63 vr4 head
ported/1mm oversize valves
crower springs and ret'
Wiseco's
Clevites
1G Moded/polished/shotpeened rods, full floating.
ARP everything
Cometic 87mm h/gasket
balance shaft removal
1600cc bosch inj'
Extrude honed Cyclone mani'
2 X 450 bosch fuel pumps
264/272 cams
3" exhaust
600x300x75 Fmic 3" in & out
Standalone ECU
2600lb clutch

Should be on the dyno in a month! see how we go.
Malpassi FPR
 
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