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rust on 2gen?

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lancerevoluvr said:
i had rust on the passenger side shock tower on my 95 GS-T, was just surface rust though, i sanded it down and painted over with black and a clear coat, never came back, now i have 95 talon AWD and the driver side shock tower is in need of some repair, luckily none is structural, just cosmetic damage, evidently there is a place where road salt and water can get in between these panels and sit there....or else the guy before me never washe dthe thing completely after the winter. he lived in western maryland too! mountains!

Same thing here. I guess moisture and salt get trapped between the two layers of metal somehow and rot it out. I have seen it on a handful of 2Gs here in the NE over the past year.

Another place to look in on the trunk lid at the very rear of the car. The small 1.5" piece that bends down to meet the tail lights. Look on the inside bend of that piece.
 
I believe that they stopped galvanizing DSM bodies sometime in ’95. So 96+ cars tend to have the most rust. I used to think that it was a firm switch between ’95 and ’96 model year, but I have seen a couple of ’95 cars with some serious rust. One had a ~2” diameter RUST THROUGH hole in the upper strut support area!

It is a real shame that a typical ’97 DSM will have more rust than a nearly worthless ’90 shell :(.

But then again, people who live south of the snow belt, have no idea what we are talking about :)
 
not really, its to early to tell for 2nd gens, My 90 has not one sorce of rust and look where I live, snow,salt and more snow..... sometimes.

I think you'll be easily safe for the duration of owning your car, just wash it regularly

Been a looong time since then. ROFL:D
 
Wow, bringing this one back. Was wondering why I was reading throught the thread & guys were saying haven't seen any 2g's rust, then I saw the thread was started in 03!

I think the common rust areas have now been figured out in these cars but to CharlieJr22, if you want it fixed properly & the repair to last the longest possible, the answer is always to cut out the damaged area & then to butt weld a replacement piece of clean metal. You can always just grind down the rust till you see clean metal but this type of repair doesn't typically last as long vs replacing the metal because alot of the time you might miss some rust. Replacing metal is usually best left to a good body shop if its in a critical spot (like exterior body) that you don't want to be able to tell the spot has been repaired. If a good body guy is doing the repair basically any sort of rust can be repaired & no one would ever be able to tell its been repaired (& will be done without the use of alot of bondo either)
 
Anyone else having water build up in the spare tire area where the washer reservoir is? I can't seem to pin point if it's leaking from too much rain, washer reservoir or the holes near the hatch are clogged.
 
If your worried about rust, just buy it from somebody in the southern states. My GST has zero rust, but sun damaged paint because of the sun.
 
I've got a 95 Talon TSI AWD. I have a big rust hole on both front wheel wells. And the bottom bolts for the front quarter panels have rusted and broke off. I'm almost certain it came from the previous owner driving thru water because I do not have the original engine. I had planned on using fiberglass jelly and either window screen or rat wire to fill the holes. Not 100% sure on any other trouble spots. Haven't noticed anymore on mine....Yet.
 
not really, its to early to tell for 2nd gens, My 90 has not one sorce of rust and look where I live, snow,salt and more snow..... sometimes.

I think you'll be easily safe for the duration of owning your car, just wash it regularly


Where abouts in Edmonton are you? LOL Im west end.
 
Wow, bringing this one back. Was wondering why I was reading throught the thread & guys were saying haven't seen any 2g's rust, then I saw the thread was started in 03!

I think the common rust areas have now been figured out in these cars but to CharlieJr22, if you want it fixed properly & the repair to last the longest possible, the answer is always to cut out the damaged area & then to butt weld a replacement piece of clean metal. You can always just grind down the rust till you see clean metal but this type of repair doesn't typically last as long vs replacing the metal because alot of the time you might miss some rust. Replacing metal is usually best left to a good body shop if its in a critical spot (like exterior body) that you don't want to be able to tell the spot has been repaired. If a good body guy is doing the repair basically any sort of rust can be repaired & no one would ever be able to tell its been repaired (& will be done without the use of alot of bondo either)

Wow thanks a bunch. This helps me a lot. :D
 
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