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Runs poorly when warm

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Viper588

15+ Year Contributor
131
1
Oct 4, 2006
manalapan, New Jersey
Hey guys I've been having an issue with a car I purchased a few months ago. Problem is that it runs great untill it warms up then instantly the o2 sits at .0 and runs like crap. I've replace MAF, O2, swapped entire intake/throttle body/coil pack from another spyder and no change, also replace CTS, and checked timing and compression. If I unplug the MAF car runs great, just rich. I haven't been able to make any progress progress other than discovering that when it starts to run like crap if I take off the air filter and block 75% of the MAF it idles great. It revs a little bit then chokes I'm assuming because I have the intake blocked. Does this point to a specific problem? I tried to search but didnt really know how to describe it so I wasn't able to find anything. Thanks!
 
Hey guys I've been having an issue with a car I purchased a few months ago. Problem is that it runs great untill it warms up then instantly the o2 sits at .0 and runs like crap. I've replace MAF, O2, swapped entire intake/throttle body/coil pack from another spyder and no change, also replace CTS, and checked timing and compression. If I unplug the MAF car runs great, just rich. I haven't been able to make any progress progress other than discovering that when it starts to run like crap if I take off the air filter and block 75% of the MAF it idles great. It revs a little bit then chokes I'm assuming because I have the intake blocked. Does this point to a specific problem? I tried to search but didnt really know how to describe it so I wasn't able to find anything. Thanks!

What does "run like crap" mean? more detail please.
 
What does "run like crap" mean? more detail please.
Here is a video to show, the rpms will bounce and it will just bog when you give it any gas. If you feather the gas for a while you can get the rpm to above 2500 it revs MUCH better

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Swap maf with a known good one. Check o2 grounds. A bad sensor willvmake it run bad
I replaced with 3 from working cars no chance with any of them

Did you replace the 2 wire CTS? The ECU uses this one (not the 1 wire one).
i dont remember for sure but im pretty sure it wad two wire. i will double check tomorrow morning! thank you for the suggestion. The car was purchase with front end damage and "no other issues" but has a restock 4g64 so i actually dont know for sure it ever ran properly other than the person i purchased it from saying it did. I did test drive the car but the tire was rubbing the fender pretty badly from the front end damage so it was a short test drive
 

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Just wanted to post the solution, i fixed it today and passed inspection an hour later. It ended up being a problem with the fuel module? next to the drivers right leg mounted behind the plastic cover next tot the radio. I followed someones guide on how to bypass the module and splice the wires together to test it. Car runs great after the splice although he says i will lose 1-2 MPG with it like that so i plan to find a new module somewhere.
 
Do u mind talking about the splice on the fuel module.? I'm having idle problems and can't find a solution yet
 
Do u mind talking about the splice on the fuel module.? I'm having idle problems and can't find a solution yet

Here is a link to the solution i followed.

http://www.justanswer.com/mitsubishi/7vv7a-mitsubishi-eclipse-spyder-gs-99-eclipse-spyder-2-4.html

Basically cut the plug(leave some length of wire so you can re connect if need/want to later) connect pin 1(black wire red stripe) to pin 3 (black wire blue stripe) and then connect pin 4 (black wire white stripe) to pin 5(black wire)
 
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