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Runns WHAYYYYY TO RICH !!!

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Marceldsm

10+ Year Contributor
321
3
Jan 13, 2010
Montreal, QC, Canada
1991 talon tsi fwd

the engine its a dsm cyclone engine

no egr valve
no cat
1g sensor
fmc

cel on ( check engine) wideband says 10 to1 !!!!!!!

Trayd to tune whit safc and even a maf-t whit gm sensor no luck

i have no idea what injectors i have a both the car for 800$ and it need a clutch

the ting is im running so rich im spiting gas ( black smoke) out the tail pipe

tanks in advance guys
 
There is no H in Way, do you have a set of stock injectors you can put into the car, also have you checked for any boost leaks, sounds more or less a boost leak if your car is pretty much stock.
 
10:1 is where many wideband controllers stop reading on the rich end.
From the factory you can see as rich as 9.3:1 at WOT but if you have aftermarket injectors you could be a lot richer than that if the car isn't tuned.

It seems that you have monkeyed with both the MAFT and SAFC but you don't know what the size of the are injectors your running. Not a good idea.

Find out what the CEL is for. Go look at the injectors and see what size they are. Take pictures if you can't tell. The factory injectors have the flow rate stamped in the side of the plastic part of their body below where the electrical connector is. Aftermarket will have some sort of identifying part number.

A "new" used car always requires a lot of investigation to figure out what hack jobs have been done and cheap ones even more so.
 
10:1 is where many wideband controllers stop reading on the rich end.
From the factory you can see as rich as 9.3:1 at WOT but if you have aftermarket injectors you could be a lot richer than that if the car isn't tuned.

It seems that you have monkeyed with both the MAFT and SAFC but you don't know what the size of the are injectors your running. Not a good idea.

Find out what the CEL is for. Go look at the injectors and see what size they are. Take pictures if you can't tell. The factory injectors have the flow rate stamped in the side of the plastic part of their body below where the electrical connector is. Aftermarket will have some sort of identifying part number.

A "new" used car always requires a lot of investigation to figure out what hack jobs have been done and cheap ones even more so.

first of tanks guys

il take some pictures of the injectos as sonn as posible

how do you check for the cell code cose i dont see no obd1 port and on Hanis manual dosont sai anyting about iy

il test the o2 see whats going on

tanks

there is no h in way, do you have a set of stock injectors you can put into the car, also have you checked for any boost leaks, sounds more or less a boost leak if your car is pretty much stock.

the pipeing that i have its complete garbage yes it is nicely welded but the part that connects the maf t to the trotle body us garbaje
 
how do you check for the cell code cose i dont see no obd1 port and on Hanis manual dosont sai anyting about iy

je n'ai pas mon Haynes avec moi, mais c'est la, cherce plus, pres du milieu. ta besion d'un voltmetre analogue, le port diagnostique est au dessous du dash au gauche du volant.

ECU Code Checking

utilise cet page aussi

je souviens de toi de montrealracing
 
je n'ai pas mon Haynes avec moi, mais c'est la, cherce plus, pres du milieu. ta besion d'un voltmetre analogue, le port diagnostique est au dessous du dash au gauche du volant.

ECU Code Checking

utilise cet page aussi

je souviens de toi de montrealracing

:thumb:

The DLC port is normally attached to the fuse box next your your left foot.
Instructions for reading the code are posted here and on the VFAQ site.

il tray to se if i can find it

and il use the multimeter if not il get a test light


there is no scaner that compatible whit these port right ??!!
 
there is no scaner that compatible whit these port right ??!!

There are dataloggers that support the Mitsubishi MUT protocol like MMCd, Pocketlogger, TMO.

It's so simple to read the error codes normally that I haven't looked for any scanners. An analog voltmeter, 12v LED, or Piezo Buzzer connected between pins 1 and 12 will let you count the output pulses for the codes.
 
i had the same problem on mine 98Tsi. i replaced the egr (make sure all of the lines are hooked up right also coming from the egr), O2 sensors, cat, and fuel regulator before it ran right. turns out it was the fuel regulator that was bad and i changed everything else for no reason haha if you pull codes on it it will more than likely read a fuel trim problem and my first check would b the regulator...
hope this helps
 
i had the same problem on mine 98Tsi. i replaced the egr (make sure all of the lines are hooked up right also coming from the egr), O2 sensors, cat, and fuel regulator before it ran right. turns out it was the fuel regulator that was bad and i changed everything else for no reason haha if you pull codes on it it will more than likely read a fuel trim problem and my first check would b the regulator...
hope this helps

the ting is i dont have a egr valve
no cat


im tinking
ecu
o2
maf
injectors
boost leek
fuel pressure regulator


il keep you guys updaited

il chech the ecu tomorow
 
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