running rich ok?

[purekoryo]

I found an sc300 with 1jzgte swap and wanted to buy it, but currently it is untuned and is running rich. During idle it flucuates between 9-10 afr and cruising about 10afr with occasional 11afr. Would the rings wash out if driven like this for about 250 miles? I asked the seller to bring some extra plugs so that it can be swapped out every 100 miles while driving it back. I don't even know if that is necessary.

or I should ask, has anyone ever driven the car like this for couple hundred miles and been ok?

thanks

 

[toofast82]

Is there any tuning device/fuel regulator you could lean it out with? That's pretty rich not under boost

 

[purekoryo]

Is there any tuning device/fuel regulator you could lean it out with? That's pretty rich not under boost

yeah, but the guy does not know how to se the safc. He doesn't have an adjustable either.

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

Well if it has a SAFC just lean it out yourself.

 

[purekoryo]

now he is saying that the safc may not be hooked up correctly. eitherway the car will have to be driven for about 200 miles with it running rich. I was just wondering if anyone ran it like this for this long with ill effects.

Well if it has a SAFC just lean it out yourself.

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

Many cars run rich from the factory but only under wot. For it to be that rich while cruising can be harmful, I would just trailer the car.

 

[toofast82]

theres only like 6 wires to the safc. Check it over with him to verify its correct and lean is out yourself. Or just trailer the car. Its not worth messing up.

 

[lacroixdp]

I found an sc300 with 1jzgte swap and wanted to buy it, but currently it is untuned and is running rich. During idle it flucuates between 9-10 afr and cruising about 10afr with occasional 11afr. Would the rings wash out if driven like this for about 250 miles? I asked the seller to bring some extra plugs so that it can be swapped out every 100 miles while driving it back. I don't even know if that is necessary.

or I should ask, has anyone ever driven the car like this for couple hundred miles and been ok?

thanks

I'd be more worried about the bearings at this point. If he drove it for a long time like this, he may have been lubricating his engine with a nice oil/gas mix

 

[zhjiln]

that is crazy rich for idle .... wow ....

do not drive until you can lean it out ...

 

[The Chazz]

I personally wouldn't chance washing down the cylinders to drive it.....see if you can trailer it back.

 

[purekoryo]

has anyone experienced this though? driven for couple hundred miles or so and spun their rod bearings?

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

No, we have lots of VFAQ's and what not to show how to hook up a SAFC properly. And we have loggers and other gauges in order for us to fix the problem before it happens. We tune out cars. Therefore, most of us have never ran into this problem.

I wouldn't risk messing up the motor go to U-Haul and rent a trailer and pull it home.

 

[purekoryo]

I don't think all of you do exactly like you stated. Either way after doing some extensive googling as long as their is spark and the timing is right most if not all of the gas should fully combust. It's not like the car has a carburator; this car is spraying mists of fuel. The only way i think there would be a wash is if the spark plugs fouled out in one of the cylinder and there was just gas pooring in there. Therefore, I'm just going to have some extra spark plugs to change them every 50-75 miles or get a wire brush to clean the tips. I'm also going to have the seller change the oil to 20w-50 with lucas oil stabilizer.

No, we have lots of VFAQ's and what not to show how to hook up a SAFC properly. And we have loggers and other gauges in order for us to fix the problem before it happens. We tune out cars. Therefore, most of us have never ran into this problem.

I wouldn't risk messing up the motor go to U-Haul and rent a trailer and pull it home.

 

[lacroixdp]

I don't think all of you do exactly like you stated. Either way after doing some extensive googling as long as their is spark and the timing is right most if not all of the gas should fully combust. It's not like the car has a carburator; this car is spraying mists of fuel. The only way i think there would be a wash is if the spark plugs fouled out in one of the cylinder and there was just gas pooring in there. Therefore, I'm just going to have some extra spark plugs to change them every 50-75 miles or get a wire brush to clean the tips. I'm also going to have the seller change the oil to 20w-50 with lucas oil stabilizer.

Go for it man. If you're going to believe Google instead of us then I suppose there's no point in discussing this further.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

I don't think all of you do exactly like you stated. Either way after doing some extensive googling as long as their is spark and the timing is right most if not all of the gas should fully combust. It's not like the car has a carburator; this car is spraying mists of fuel. The only way i think there would be a wash is if the spark plugs fouled out in one of the cylinder and there was just gas pooring in there. Therefore, I'm just going to have some extra spark plugs to change them every 50-75 miles or get a wire brush to clean the tips. I'm also going to have the seller change the oil to 20w-50 with lucas oil stabilizer.

If it's idling and cruising in the 9-11:1 afr range that means there is too much fuel than is needed for ideal combustion. Therefore, there are unburned hydrocarbons still in the cylinder that get evacuated out during the exhaust stroke. Whether or not its enough to wash the cylinder walls, I don't know. But, I wouldn't take that chance. I do know it's going to make your oil really dirty really quickly and I would not want that in my oil and around my bearings. There is a reason cars shoot for 14.7:1 AFR at idle and cruise and it's because all of the available air and all of the available fuel are used at that ideal mixture.

I would trailer it home. Period. No sense in saving the money on a trailer rental just to throw it away when you have to rebuild the damn thing.

If you do decide to drive it. (which I do not suggest) Make sure you run some seafoam through the engine before you change the oil to get all of the carbon buildup/residue out of the engine. Then, change the oil and fix your rich problem. With the oil changed, run the car for about 300-500 miles and change the oil again. If it's still dirty, change it again after a few hudred miles. You're not done until the oil is clean when you drain it after a few hundred miles.

Then again you could just disregard any of our suggestions and do whatever you want. I don't care it's not a DSM you're messing up.

 

[purekoryo]

If it's idling and cruising in the 9-11:1 afr range that means there is too much fuel than is needed for ideal combustion. Therefore, there are unburned hydrocarbons still in the cylinder that get evacuated out during the exhaust stroke. Whether or not its enough to wash the cylinder walls, I don't know. But, I wouldn't take that chance. I do know it's going to make your oil really dirty really quickly and I would not want that in my oil and around my bearings. There is a reason cars shoot for 14.7:1 AFR at idle and cruise and it's because all of the available air and all of the available fuel are used at that ideal mixture.

I would trailer it home. Period. No sense in saving the money on a trailer rental just to throw it away when you have to rebuild the damn thing.

If you do decide to drive it. (which I do not suggest) Make sure you run some seafoam through the engine before you change the oil to get all of the carbon buildup/residue out of the engine. Then, change the oil and fix your rich problem. With the oil changed, run the car for about 300-500 miles and change the oil again. If it's still dirty, change it again after a few hudred miles. You're not done until the oil is clean when you drain it after a few hundred miles.

Then again you could just disregard any of our suggestions and do whatever you want. I don't care it's not a DSM you're messing up.

Well, I appreciate your suggestions and wll most definiitely do as you suggested
I think the precautions of the guy driving it down here will also be met. He agreed to put 20w-50 weight oil with some lucas additive and bring set of new spark plugs to change it every so often. He also agreed to do a compression test and send me the results from the shop prior to driving own here. Then, I will do a compression test at my house.

Lastly, I will take into account what you have mentioned above and I think I will be fine.

 

[purekoryo]

Go for it man. If you're going to believe Google instead of us then I suppose there's no point in discussing this further.

Well, googling netted me various sites like this one with very experienced people (some 30+ years) mentioning that I should be fine as long as I take certain precautionary measures much more than people that think it will completely distroy the engine after few miles. The people that said it will be ok have actually experienced running like this even for thousands of miles (they just had to increase oil change intervals); however, people that said it will destroy the engine did not have any experience with running rich like this at all. So, I think I will believe real world stats. Don't get me wrong, I'm not fully disregarding what is mentioned on here as well. I know DSMers have a lot of experience just from the shear fact that modifying/tuning DSM's has been around for a while.; that's why I posted here as well.

And yes there is no point anymore in discussing this further, so moderators, please close this thread.