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2G Rotor options...

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Exactly what i'm going to do as well. It just makes sense if you think about it. And a damn good deal.

My question though is this, If one does opt for a slotted or drilled rotor does resurfacing go out the window? Or is it still possible to have them "turned" if they need to be?
 
staticbrainwash said:
Exactly what i'm going to do as well. It just makes sense if you think about it. And a damn good deal.

My question though is this, If one does opt for a slotted or drilled rotor does resurfacing go out the window? Or is it still possible to have them "turned" if they need to be?

Good question. I was wondering the same thing, but by the time I got to putting it down in a post, I had forgotten about it... :confused:
 
I have been using Powerslot Rotors up front and EBC Green Stuff pads for a while now. Very noticable difference over stock, and at a reasonable price. Granted I dont AutoX, but have been known to do some spirited driving. I asked a local brake shop guy if they could be turned, and he said he turns bike and BMW rotors all the time, so I figured the Powerslots would be turnable as well. Just my two cents.
 
staticbrainwash said:
Exactly what i'm going to do as well. It just makes sense if you think about it. And a damn good deal.

My question though is this, If one does opt for a slotted or drilled rotor does resurfacing go out the window? Or is it still possible to have them "turned" if they need to be?

i have actually had customers say they have had their slotted rotors turned but i know most places won't do it.

also, i thought i should note. i have had 2 customers that i can remember of that have warped these rotors and that is in several years.
 
I also respect jtoby's input on all suspension matters. He's a tremendous asset.

But I want to challenge conventional brake wisdom. Instead of assumptions, I'd like to see someone actually post hard data:

1. Rotors are iron. All this talk about special metalurgy gets my curiosity up. What's the benefit, other than speculation?

2. Ditto all this talk about expensive components naturally being superior. Where's the data?

3. Vane geometry; same questions: Where's the data?

4. Drilled/slotted. And again the same questions: Where's the data supporting these revolutions in rotor design that pay such enormous dividends they're worth three, four, ten times the cost of standard, OEM-style imported part?

I highly suspect that offshore foundries can churn out perfectly servicable OEM-style (and/or "technologically enhanced") rotor parts all day and all night at a tiny, tiny fraction the resale price of all the boutique brands, and that further, there's not a lick of actual hard performance data that discriminates against them in any way proportional to the cost difference, if at all.

In another industry I sell expensive products to boys with cash, and I cannot possibly overestimate the lure of big price tags and totally unbacked conventional wisdom about what works and what does not. Gin up a slogan, invent a psuedo-technology, talk loudly about it all ... and be sure to literally charge many times the cost of a nearly identical competitor. Who sells more? You do. People LOVE paying WAY more than stuff's worth when you can sell them a complete line of marketing rubbish. My competitors get rich doing just this, even from similar OEM sources!

Not saying that's at all the case with the automotive aftermarket, but I do know marketing and human nature as concerns boutique products with absolutely no technical advantage. It's better -- WAY better -- because it costs more.

I cannot prove this hunch about rotors, but it's easily as useful a notion as the blanket assumption that bling brake parts make such a tremendous difference. Somebody prove me wrong and I'll be the first to admit it. Meanwhile, I have $20 OEM-style rotors and Wilwood calipers going on the back of my 2G. If they explode, I'll let you know.
 
Hmmm, good thinking Jon. Because of you, I may just have to rethink my brake upgrade. And since I won't be doing a lot of AutoX now, maybe I'll stick with '$20' blanks, and worry about the rest. (i.e. fluid, pads, lines)

:sigh: So many decisions.
 
suicidal2af said:
http://www.importrp.com/product.php?productid=1419&cat=38&page=1

Cheap brembo blanks. Pillar vaned, if you're curious.

http://www.importrp.com/product.php?productid=4475&cat=38&page=1

Cheap brembo sports. Directionally vaned.

To the suggestion of getting rotors with less thermal capacity due to being cheaper and getting better pads: more aggressive pads will create more heat, requiring a better rotor.

If you can prove that, as the common example in this thread, Duralast rotors have less "THERMAL CAPACITY" than that brembo blank, I"ll buy you lunch.


(Before you spend too much time on it though, let me offer some advice. The duralast has more "thermal capacity" as you say, but the brembo transfers heat better. but for 40$ apiece, might as well get those pillar vaned non directional brembos.
 
suicidal2af said:
http://www.importrp.com/product.php?productid=1419&cat=38&page=1

Cheap brembo blanks. Pillar vaned, if you're curious.

http://www.importrp.com/product.php?productid=4475&cat=38&page=1

Cheap brembo sports. Directionally vaned.

To the suggestion of getting rotors with less thermal capacity due to being cheaper and getting better pads: more aggressive pads will create more heat, requiring a better rotor.

Hmm. That's not bad. I think I'll give 'em a call tomorrow to verify that they have the rotors for the dual piston setup, and if they have rotors for the rear. Good find. Thanks. :thumb:
 
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