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Rotor install.. self or have a shop do it?

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mastaBO

15+ Year Contributor
96
0
Oct 22, 2003
Should i install the rotors my self? If i do it my self, I will be looking at the HAYNES manual and following the steps.
I dont think the shop will ask for alot to put on the rotors. Maybe get new brakes along with that.
What you guys thing? I never installed or touched rotors before. I dont think it will be hard to do it.
 
mastaBO said:
Should i install the rotors my self? If i do it my self, I will be looking at the HAYNES manual and following the steps.
I dont think the shop will ask for alot to put on the rotors. Maybe get new brakes along with that.
What you guys thing? I never installed or touched rotors before. I dont think it will be hard to do it.

A rotor install is very easy bro. A haynes manual will help you alot. don't be intimidated by it because it is brakes.
 
i just tried isntalling them.. The guide bolts are friggin stuck and wont budge. I sprayed WD 40's on em and it still wont budge. I was tryin to take that bolt out for like 2 hrs with no luck. Any suggestions on how to remove the bolts? Its the bolt that u need to remove in order to lift the caliper? up. I eneded on rounding one of the bolts. I even tried hammering it to turn, and still didnt budge.
 
Let the WD soak in for a while, seems to work better if some so. Mine were kinda stuck, but the combonation of stomping, standing, swearing, and swinging worked for me. Using the right size (12 or 14 mm can't remember)? Make sure to clean/regrease the pins before you reinstall them, and replace the rounded off one.
 
If you can, use a breaker bar also. I would also recommened a 6pt socket instead of a 12, those things are junk. If the WD isn't working, try some PB Blaster. It stinks like hell, but it's awesome stuff. You are going to need to let everything soak in as long as you can. :thumb:
 
I think it's 17mm.

Just stick a box end wrench on there and beat with a hammer. Just don't overdo it.

If you're replacing the rotor and not resurfacing it, it's much easier to get off because you don't have to worry about hurting the surface. It's gonna take a lot of beating to get the rotor off, so be patient. Try not to hit the wheel studs, but if you do, they are very simple to replace.

Dan
 
Apply some anti-seize between the new rotor and the hub so you don't have to beat it again next time. :talon:
 
Copper anti seize is the best invention to a turbo car yet :) I use it on anything that needs to be taken off again with ease later.. also a rubber mallet, and pbblaster will do the trick on a stuck rotor, just take your time, apply some force but be nice ;)

Josh :talon:
 
and if all of those suggestions dont work, use a torch that you can buy for cheap at Sears. Heat up the area... not the bolt head, below it, and that should help you break it. :thumb:
 
9d2TSi said:
If you can, use a breaker bar also.

I had to use a 6 foot bar to snap those things off. That was after soaking in PB blaster for a day. And wow, did they make a loud noise when they snapped off. The longer the braker bar the more power in your hands... more power to ya. :thumb:

-Jerad :dsm:
 

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Took me a while to change my rotors about 2 hours for one rotor and after that one about 15min each other rotor.

The bigger the braker bar the ezer to loosen the bolts.

Also one way to remove ur rotor "the fastest way" is to use 2 screws and screw it in the rotor. and try to tighten them at the same time little by little. that will get the rotor off ral fast and u don't have to beat on ur old rotor.
 

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telly699 said:
I had to use a 6 foot bar to snap those things off. That was after soaking in PB blaster for a day. And wow, did they make a loud noise when they snapped off. The longer the braker bar the more power in your hands... more power to ya. :thumb:

-Jerad :dsm:


From the look of the image you attached, you're talking about the hub nut and he is talking about the caliper bolt.
 
oldman said:
From the look of the image you attached, you're talking about the hub nut and he is talking about the caliper bolt.
Yeah, you don't need a breaker bar to get the rotor off :p
 
I got the pb blaster today and the anti seize. I will start on it tomo. Hopefully itll work. The 6foot bar thing is like the first time seeing it. Good stuff.
Thanks guys for all the inputs.
 
also make sure your brake pedal isnt hard in the car when your trying to do it...if your trying to pull those bolts with allot of pressure built up its a pain in the ass...if the pedal is hard- start the car for like 20 seconds and shut it off (DONT TOUCH THE PEDAL) then try it should come right off
 
You know the best way to break a caliper slide bolt loose? First off they totally like the head break off easy so you dont really have to worry about breaking the bolt itself.

Anyway get a jack.. Like a floor jack, put a 17mm wrench on the bolt in question and jack the jack up until its touching the wrench. Might have to put a block of wood between the 2 depending on how high your car is.

Anyway then slowly start to jack up the jack up. As the jack comes up you better believe that bolts going to turn =)

We tried a breaker bar and couldnt get one of mine to move at all. Threw the ol 3 ton floor jack in there and jacked the 17mm wrench and the bolt broke right loose with the weight of the car and pressure of the jack.

Soak it good with PB Blaster though.

Hope that made sense though. Worked good for me.
 
Okay, i was able to get the guide bolts off. The next problem is.. the mouting bots. those other part of da caliper that needs to come off in order to take the rotors out. I got the top bolt off, but the one on da bottom wont budge.. maybe i dont have the right tools? It dosent have enuff room for me to take it off. It seems like im just rounding the bolt. Any suggestions?
 
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