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rods from 7-bolt into 6-bolt

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turboedspyder

15+ Year Contributor
103
1
Feb 28, 2007
Shillington, Pennsylvania
I had a set of 1G rods paired up with evo pistons in my last 7-bolt engine. the rods had to be shaved down to fit the 7-bolt crank, so would i need oversized rod bearings to make them fit onto a 6-bolt crank?? My 7-bolt crank walked, im pretty sure it was due to a poorly adjusted clutch or clutch pedal, or even an improperly stepped flywheel, so i wanna go 6-bolt this time, just to be safe. Im not sure exactly how i would go about this, or if its even possible to make this work, so any help from people who know what theyre talking about would be awesome. Thanks alot for any help
 
kinda unrelated but on the 7bolt was the oil pump new or in spec and did you you address the oil squirter issue? What clutch were you using?
 
Definitely go with 6 bolt rods on 2g pistons. But don't reuse the rods you had shaved down for the seven bolt. You can easily find a used set of 6 bolts rods for sale on this or local forums.
 
the oil pump wasnt new but seemed in good condition. i know i ###### shouldve gotten a new OFH when i did the rebuild. and i did nothing with the oil squirters, does blocking them off reduce the chances of crankwalk or something?? I was thinking about it, and dont see why i perfectly built 7bolt, with everything in spec(such as new OFH, slave cylinder, master cylinder, clutch pedal assembly, flywheel, good clutch, bearings, TOB) i dont see why a well built 7bolt shouldnt last atleast a good 100k miles. just making sure the flywheel isnt dragging, (putting pressure on the crank while in nuetral), a nice soft clutch that isnt too rough on the tranny, and doing regular oil changes...etc. does anyone else believe that a properly built 7bolt could be as reliable as any 6bolt??
 
Yes, a properly built seven bolt would be just as reliable as a six bolt. Seven bolts are weak with their rods. So as long as your not making a lot of power on the seven bolt you should be good. I have seen a couple seven bolts snap rods and put them through the block. But these were high mileage motors seeing around 25 psi. As long as it's "properly" built. No half ass throwing stuff together job. You should always relplace all bearings, and new oil pump, water pump and timing belt+components. Replace all parts that have the chance of failing. And a good machine shop to machine and clean your parts is always a good thing. But if I were you and since your thinking about it, just do the six bolt swap. I did it and it's worth it. You will have extra mental insurance. Stronger rods, no CW(or less likely), better flowing head.
 
Yeah i think the builds gonna be a 6bolt. i dont want "crankwalk" bein in the back of my head everytime i drive the car.LOL plus i dont wanna risk rebuilding a 7bolt block that already walked. might as well put the money into it and do it right now. i could just get a set of 6bolt rods from dsmgraveyard and have the machine shop install the evo pistons on these new 6bolt rods right? i think the top end of a 6bolt rod is in spec to fit on the evo piston, but im not sure. its been awhile.LOL even if not im sure the machine shop in my area could make it work
 
if your interested i have a set of 6 bolt rods....if so let me know.....also the dsm graveyard uses npr pistons...i belive thats the name...u can pick the m up on ebay all day long for 100 bucks....and if you go to a machin shop that knows what their doing you can easil get ot done for under 300 bucks...just my opinion..also if your going with a standard piston...i have a wierd combination i would like to c someone try...i have the 6 bolt rods but i purchased evo 6 pistons by accident from ebay...genuine mitsu part i even called around and found that they cam out of the evo rs..i think thats what the rally version was called...ne way i woul give the rods and pistons away for a good price, i really need to get some stuff out of the garage LOL
 
the oil pump wasnt new but seemed in good condition. i know i ###### shouldve gotten a new OFH when i did the rebuild. and i did nothing with the oil squirters, does blocking them off reduce the chances of crankwalk or something?? I was thinking about it, and dont see why i perfectly built 7bolt, with everything in spec(such as new OFH, slave cylinder, master cylinder, clutch pedal assembly, flywheel, good clutch, bearings, TOB) i dont see why a well built 7bolt shouldnt last atleast a good 100k miles. just making sure the flywheel isnt dragging, (putting pressure on the crank while in nuetral), a nice soft clutch that isnt too rough on the tranny, and doing regular oil changes...etc. does anyone else believe that a properly built 7bolt could be as reliable as any 6bolt??

Blocking/Removing the oil squirters completely removes the possibility of being prone to crankwalk.
 
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