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rich running and diing please help

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dracon8780

10+ Year Contributor
48
0
Nov 3, 2011
priest river, Idaho
Hi everyone
I've been an import fan from the sidelines for a wile now. I finaly got one of my own after years of resurch. a 92 plymouth laser awd turbo that was pre built. the person befor me put nickle coated JE forged pistons, forged rods, balanced crankshaft and removed the balance shaft. then he bent 14 of the vavles and then I took over. After sending the head in to be rebuilt with stainless valves. I noticed a sound coming from the turbo and the car being really hard to start. Sometimes taking as much as an hour and a half to start. once it fired up it would idle a little high but fine for as long as I wanted it to. I could drive it for about 30 miles and then it would start to hesitate. The longer I would drive it the worse it got. To the point of feeling like pressing the gas and the brake at the same time, any time it was under any boost. If I stoped and let it idle for 30 min or so it would be fine for another 30 miles or so and start doing it all over again. It is throwing a code after about 20 seconds of running. the mechanics here will not scan it unless I have it fixed there and I cant afford that. I did try the code flash from the book and nothing happens. this computer erases the codes at shut down so I have no Idea what they are. So the repairs took place.
this is what I have done. One repair at a time.

New 255lph fuel pump.
New AFPR
O2 sensor
NewCoolent temp sensor
New 16g evoIII turbo
New front mount intercooler and piping
New oil catch tank
New exhaust manifold
New BOV
Voltage stabalizer
New vacuum hoses
New radiator hoses
New plugs and wires gaped .25
new timing belt kit
ignition timing is good at 7degrees
tested TPS
tested resistance on MAF sensor
tested cam angle sensor

It does have stock 450cc injectors
After all that the only thing it fixed was under full boost it does not hesitate any more but still not up to full power

The only thing I have not tested that I can think of is the ECU. I am a little intimidated because it is rivited in and an expensive part.

I am getting tired of throwing parts at this and spending a lot of time and money on parts that napa and carquest say are bad!!! I love this car and dont want to get rid of it.:banghead:

Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated

I have gone through the threads and found nothing that would help me so I am posting my own.

I am new to these so please be kind :|
 
450cc injectors are kind of small for 16g.Have you checked for boost leaks?What are you tuning with?
 
I havent got to the tuning yet. I wanted to fix the problem first than tun it for what I got in it. the 450cc injectors are only temp. I dont have the money to get a new ECU yet and I was told you have to in order to install bigger injectors.

Now that you metion it. It does sound like the BOV is on more than it should be but the richness problem was there befor I replaced it.
 
he closest autozone or advance is 80 miles away. I live in northern idaho in the middle of noware. It has its ups and downs
 
Those readers don't read OBD1 cars. Neither does Autozone. Only OBDII. Also, the ECU is NOT riveted in. Remove the center console side covers, the pass. side lower cover, and there are 3 10mm bolts holding the ecu in.
 
Another cheap Option to Log via a laptop is a V3 ECMlink Cable $39(Not that they let you know that) an a Number of programs like MMCD with a palm emulator or Tuner Pro

BUT Not with The ECmlink program without a ecm/dsmlink Chip...

That is If you don't want to mess with old Palm pilot's an building a logging cable... if you plan on doing any kind of mods this is going to be invaluable

Never hurts to pull the ECU an check for capacitor damage... .

Also FYI our cars where built in the US an are not really technically an Import LOL
 
sorry to high jack this thread, but you can order the v3 ecmlink cable and just run mmcd with an emulator on ## laptop?
 
Also, if you just wanna check your CEL codes, you CAN hook up a speaker, or an analog volt meter to two pins on the reader jack in the car. It's next to the fuse box located near your left foot. It's kind of awkward to get up there, but it helped me read my codes and find out I just had a bad Throttle Position Sensor calibration. So if all you wanna do is read codes, if you've got a multimeter, or a speaker and wire/alligator clips, you should be able to sneak by. Though, with those kind of upgrades to your car, you'd probably want tuning stuff soon anyways.

Hope that helps, I'll do some quick googling and see if I can't find the page that helped me read my codes with an analog volt meter.

Edit: This might help

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/319844-1g-code-reader-cel-code-reader.html
 
Ok. Sorry I havent replied in a few days but I had my car at a shop. talked to the owner and he said he would look at codes for $65. He showed me the scanner and it said every sensor was bad. So he went through them manuely. They all tested good. Even he didnt know so a waist of 65$. As I was driving home. I heard the BOV slightly at cruise. after some resurch I found that there was a restrictor with my BOV that I did not install. There for it was opening and closing intermitenly. I installed this cheap plastic and everything worked great. No more surging.
So on the way home I let her open to see the improvements. scared the crap out of my self. I have never felt such power. I am looking forword to getting even more. Thank you all for your help.

can any one tell me how to put this under resolved?
 
Is your BOV recirculating tube on?

I was posting to the oringinal post my bad. Good luck.
Btw, these cars will nickel and dime ya. I'm 17 and figured that out the hard way.
 
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