[RESOLVED] vital screw, need part # please \\ Turbo oil feed banjo bolt

[Generation1JeY]

Hi i just broke the banjo bolt that bolts the oil feed line to the turbo to the head, i went to napa, home depot, autozone, kragen, and none of them have it. I live in san diego and i'm wondering where anyone would have this bolt. I already went on machv and ordered theirs, but i know it iwll take like a week and a half to get here and as of right now i cant drive my car because theres an oil leak.

Any hep appreciated

 

[oldman]

You're welcome, glade to know you're one of few that searches. It's going to be mighty hard to find those locally. When I converted my water feed and return to -6AN SS lines (M14 1.50 benjo to male -6AN) I had a real hard time finding them, they weren't cheap either btw. IMO you're better off just paying a little more for a pre-made kit and be over with. If you still want to go through with it, pm me and I will look for the receipt at work tomorrow to give you the name of the company I bought them from. Good luck.

 

[tselling]

Ok folks I have a huge problem. Well my turbo is finally working, but the banjo bolt that is connected to the head, well the threads in the head are stripped out. I can push the bolt in and out of the head. What can i do to fix this problem real cheap and efficent. i have no mods on the car and it is a 1g 90 motor.

 

[Zero Banger]

Can you have it tapped for the next size up?

Is the bolt stripped at all? maybe it will work if the bolt were in better condition.

There really is no way around fixing it right if it is in really bad condition. It will not be dependable and no oil to the turbo is bad news as well as the oil being sprayed if the fitting lets go.

 

[loweperf]

You can probably tap it to a 1/8 pipe thread and use a 1/8 pipe to -3 AN fitting then use braided line to the turbo.

 

[slvrstingray]

You cannot tap that with the next size up!! The oil feed line only takes one size banjo bolt. The only true way to fix this problem, is to use a 10x1.25 Heal-a-Coil! If you do not have the tools to do this, a Heal-a-Coil kit runs from $40-$80. You will also need a tap driver and small or right angle drill. If you are goind to use this method, fill the flukes of the drill bit and the tap with grease to trap any of the cuttings that you produce. Then use a Q-tip to clean out the other pieces that you didn't get. You do not want the metal chips to circulte through out the head.

If you do not want to go with that method, there is an alternative, and it may be less of a hassle. The drawback is, that you won't be able to use a stock oil feed line again. This process will still require drilling and tapping the cylinder head the next size up, so you will have useable theads that you can plug it with. This will not require a heal-a-coil if done properly. Your alternative is to use an aftermarket oil feed line that takes oil from the oil filter housing.

Either way, your trying to be cheap you will have to spend some money somewhere. The investment is about the same in either senario. Just remember that the second method deems the factory oil feed line useless.

If it were my car, I would suggest doing the first method to fix the threads proplerly. Then I would plug it so it is still useable in the future. But I would definitely run the oil feed line from the oil filter housing. Goodluck...

 

[DevilSperm]

^^^ i agree with this guy, my friend had the same problem and it worked great....however, some of us like to refer to it as "Heli-Coil"

 

[slvrstingray]

When you drill the threads out, you will want to drill all the old ones out so you have a clean hole to tap all the way through. it will only go in about 5/8 of an inch before it bottoms out. You will want to have enough clearance to able to run the tap all the way in and have enough threads for the "Heli-Coil." Make sure that you are drilling perfecly straight, and tapping perfectly straight. You only have one shot at this. Use Caution and make sure that the hole is clean! Like a mentioned before, grease up the drill and tap flukes, and Q-Tip with a little grease on the end will pick up all your little shavings. Once you get it all cleaned out, use a little, penetrating fluid or some type of persurized oil, use the "little red Straw" and put it all the way to the back of the hole, then hit if full blast! to try and force any other little pieces out. One the job is done and put back together, I would run the engine for a little bit to make sure that it doesn't leak, then I would change the oil to eliminate the contaminates from the system. Good luck and post your results!

 

[seth98es]

I need the 14x28 banjo bolt for the 14b turbo coolant line, but none of the mitsu dealers have them in stock. What other stores would sell banjo bolts? Ive tried Lowes and Home Depot but they do not have any banjo bolts. Anybody know of any stores that carry them? THanks.

 

[greeneclipse]

try:

http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=PHPSESSID=f66ab2a984591353dc33d456f4cde9c9&cat=1062

http://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/mainthardware.shtml

 

[seth98es]

Yah I know they both have them, just looking for a local store first but Im not havnig any luck. Ive called every hydraulic store in the phone book with no luck so far

 

[Stainbox12]

I finishished my turbo porting job today, and after installing everything, i forgot to add the washers, to one of the water lines that go to the turbo, (there are 3 banjo bolts in the turbo, 1 for oil and 2 for water, correct me if im mistaken) so i tighten the thing too much, and it broke. Now, the one that broke, was one for the water line, and my question is that, i found them on www.extremepsi.com, but i would like to know the size of it, since there are 3 in the website, i think its the 12mm x 1.25mm, the second one, over this link: http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=18421&cat=864&page=1 , can anyone confirm this please? i would really appreciate it. Thanks.

P.D: my turbo is a small 16g, i think its almost the same thing than the stock one.

 

[ddavisaf]

The water line banjo bolt is the largest of the three if I'm not mistaken.

 

[blackGSX2g]

The water line banjo bolt you need is 14mm x 1.5mm.

The 12mm x 1.25mm is for the oil feed on top of the turbo, and the smallest is for the oil feed on the side of the cylinder head.

 

[carsaval]

I want to replace the slave resivior on my 2g with a ss cable, I need to know the size banjo fitting I need, and the fitting size and type I will need to also eliminate the flexible rubber hose from the ssline from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. Thanks

 

[turbodsm18]

Just buy the kit for Slowboy, its $25.00 and im pretty sure it comes with a new banjo blot and everything else you need.

 

[Midnightride]

Im getting ready to do the 14b install on the 2G tomorrow.

Ok, I know the coolant lines can be resused from the T2small, but will the banjo bolts from it transfer over to the 14B? I know the size of the banjo bolt for the oil feed line is different, but what about the 2 coolant line banjo bolts?

If they are different, what size/type do I need to get?

would jegs/local mitsu dealer carry them?

 

[chetvram]

I just did a 14b swap onto my car used a 10x1.25mm Banjo bolt and 2 new copper crush washers. This was on a 2g head btw, Good Luck.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

10mm x 1.25 Banjo - Goes in the side of the head for a 1G style oil feed line.
12mm x 1.25 Banjo - Goes in the top of MOST TDO5 turbo center sections like the 14B, 16G, Evo 16G, 18G, and SBR Bastard 20G's. If you have a TDO6H turbine wheel this one won't work.
14mm Banjo - Works in the coolant passages of most turbochargers.

 

[Wheels-a-turnin]

Anyone, I really need to know

 

[Mike1992]

14mm http://slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=1919&

 

[eddielujan]

I really need to find another bolt, I accidently broke this one please help me figure out a part number and where I could get it, thanks. here are the pics

 

[C_Keagy]

Get an easy out from a parts store. they are easy to take out because they already have a hole down the middle.

 

[romeen]

As mentioned, a bolt extractor should remove that easily. As far as replacement, that is a banjo bolt for stock oil line to the turbo which it appears you are not using. The part number for it is MF650102. However, since you are not using it for an oil line you can use any M10 x 1.25 bolt to plug it. Don't forget to use a 10mm crush washer otherwise it may leak.

If you do decide to use a banjo bolt, be careful about overtightening. As you discovered, they shear in half much easier than a regular, solid bolt.

 

[tqmx1]

Also if you need to get moving and you can't wait for a DSM part. Motorcycles use the same type banjo bolts in all their brake and clutch systems. If you have a bike dismantler around they should have them around for damn near nothing.

Good luck.

 

[Fitz7099]

I was wondering what size banjo ring (yellow circle) and what size banjo bolt (red circle) I would need to build a SS braided line for a 6-bolt/T-25 set up.

What kind of stores would sell these things?

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