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Replacing yoke and U-Joint on driveshaft

UndergroundR32

20+ Year Contributor
664
0
Jun 6, 2002
NY
I wanted to know if there was anything that I should anticipate that I'm unaware of. Is it easier to just do it without removing the whole driveshaft or should I take it out? How do I remove the yoke and u-joint from the shaft, is it just C-clips holding it in or do I need a press.
 

Morphius

DSM Wiseman
1,895
58
Jun 9, 2003
M-Town, Michigan
I'd strongly suggest removing it to work on it. It'll only take you 10 minutes or less.

The u-joints need to be pressed out. There are no C-clips.


PS. While you're at it, can you measure the overall length of your driveshaft? I'm building up my GGSX and at the time of purchase the driveshaft was out. I'm wondering if the guy gave me the right shaft, as he had numerous other parts from other DSM's. I think there is a slight length difference between the DSM and the Galants.
 

UndergroundR32

20+ Year Contributor
664
0
Jun 6, 2002
NY
I don't know if the driveshaft that's in my car now is the same one that came with it. The previous owner did a 4 bolt rear in it and the majority of drivetrain parts and suspension parts are aftermarket or from a different car. I'll measure it for you none the less.

In the Vfaq here http://www.vfaq.com/mods/transfer-print.html and numerous other instructions speak about C-clips needing to be removed.

"If you had difficulty like I did doing that under the car, you can use a circlip pliers to remove the clips on the universal joint, and pull the yoke off the driveshaft,"


It also says to use sockets and a hammer to remove the U joint as apposed to using a press. This will work? I'm not sure I understand what needs to be pressed out, or in.
 

1gfromND

15+ Year Contributor
164
1
Nov 11, 2003
Grand Forks, North_Dakota
Where by chance did u get all the stuff to take care of driveshaft? And how did it run you?
 

steve

DSM Wiseman
14,715
1,587
Feb 3, 2002
Boulder, Colorado
My drive shaft had snap rings retaining the cups for the u-joints. The Galant Service manual also shows them.

I just finished replacing all three joints. The hardest part was freeing up the rusted snap rings.
Depending on how rusted the cups are you might be able press them out with a big c-clamp but I had a several that really needed my 12 ton press.

Make sure not to push the cups loose from the yoke, press just far enough to get ahold of the opposing cup with some vice grips or you'll find that the cross will be stuck in the yoke with no room to pull it out. Once one cap is out press the outer side out using a deep wall socket against the cross.

The u-joint kit from Mitsubishi comes with 4 pair of different thickness snap rings and the manual gives a spec for end clearance. I could only get the thinnest ones to fit in with both caps installed. Again be real careful when pressing the new cups in that you don't drive it below the snap ring groove, driving it back isn't fun.

Steve
 

UndergroundR32

20+ Year Contributor
664
0
Jun 6, 2002
NY
1gfromND said:
Where by chance did u get all the stuff to take care of driveshaft? And how did it run you?

www.mitsubishigraveyard.com Gary can set you up. $55 for the yoke and u-joint

steve said:
My drive shaft had snap rings retaining the cups for the u-joints. The Galant Service manual also shows them.

I just finished replacing all three joints. The hardest part was freeing up the rusted snap rings.
Depending on how rusted the cups are you might be able press them out with a big c-clamp but I had a several that really needed my 12 ton press.

Make sure not to push the cups loose from the yoke, press just far enough to get ahold of the opposing cup with some vice grips or you'll find that the cross will be stuck in the yoke with no room to pull it out. Once one cap is out press the outer side out using a deep wall socket against the cross.

The u-joint kit from Mitsubishi comes with 4 pair of different thickness snap rings and the manual gives a spec for end clearance. I could only get the thinnest ones to fit in with both caps installed. Again be real careful when pressing the new cups in that you don't drive it below the snap ring groove, driving it back isn't fun.

Steve

Thanks for your input. I'm sure it will help quite a bit, though it's difficult to understand some of it as I haven't actually began taking it off yet and don't know what to expect or what I'm pushing out or against. We'll see when I start doing it in a day or two.

Just got back from Westchester Medical Center though. Friend got into a bad accident last night in his g35 and got air lifted there.
 

DSM90AWD

DSM Wiseman
2,922
104
Dec 22, 2002
Bear, Delaware
steve said:
The u-joint kit from Mitsubishi comes with 4 pair of different thickness snap rings and the manual gives a spec for end clearance. I could only get the thinnest ones to fit in with both caps installed. Again be real careful when pressing the new cups in that you don't drive it below the snap ring groove, driving it back isn't fun.Steve

Which "color" was the smallest (black, brass, sliver)? They're so close in thickness I'm having trouble eyeballing it.

Tried for an hour trying to get both sides to fit without luck. Think it would be alright if I installed one side and torked the other down (i.e. other side would be retained by the installed circlip)? Don't want to damage them.
 

DSM90AWD

DSM Wiseman
2,922
104
Dec 22, 2002
Bear, Delaware
Finally got it. Got one sides c-clip installed and then pressed the other down enough to get the other side's in. The Silver ones are the thinnest and are the only ones where both would fit.
 

UndergroundR32

20+ Year Contributor
664
0
Jun 6, 2002
NY
Just MAKE SURE it's the right one. It can be pretty difficult to get those things in. It should just BARELY fit. I didn't press mine however. I just banged the u-joint in with a hammer and two sockets.


Chris
 

DSM90AWD

DSM Wiseman
2,922
104
Dec 22, 2002
Bear, Delaware
UndergroundR32 said:
Just MAKE SURE it's the right one. It can be pretty difficult to get those things in. It should just BARELY fit. I didn't press mine however. I just banged the u-joint in with a hammer and two sockets.Chris

The silver ones are def the only ones that would work with mine. I did make the error of adding a bit of greece to the tip (so would slide in better) so maybe that made a diff?

FYI.. c-clips from thick to thin: Black > Copper > Silver.

I examined the other DS u-joints I found my rearmost one binds a bit and has some axial play (which I erroneously thought was my diff :cry: ).

Is there anyone that makes u-joints for our cars other than Mitsu? The joints are $42 with discount from JNZ.. or could just get the yoke recall kit for $30 and press the joint out.
I see Mitsu P/Us and the Starion joints for $18 online.. are they compatible?
 

Turblown

15+ Year Contributor
220
6
Oct 9, 2003
Phoenix, Arizona
The Silver ones are the thinnest and are the only ones where both would fit.

Sorry to bring this post back from the dead, but this post just saved me! I spent 2 hours last night trying to get the "brass" color Snap-Rings to fit thinking they were all the same. The Silver ones are going in right after I get off work!

:thumb:

UPDATE: The silver snap-rings went in like a charm!
 
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