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replacing the little things before modding...suggestions?

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diab0liK

15+ Year Contributor
133
1
Feb 17, 2005
Ann Arbor, Michigan
Ok, so I just got my spyder a couple weeks ago (I'd definitely prefer the hardtop, but I got a gst spyder for 5k, in good shape, so I can't complain) and it's in pretty good shape, but it's about to hit 88k miles, and needs some love on the little stuff, which I'd like to upgrade all of, before I start tackling shit like new wheels, new turbo, etc. etc. etc.

So I'm wondering what you guys think is the best way to go on the little stuff, and maybe some specific part recommendations. I had a brief stint w/ overheating problems, but I think I have that resolved now, and I'm planning to replace a couple of leaker heater hoses this week, and that should be in order. I'm also planning to flush and replace all the fluids (any tips/recommendations on that process would be nice as well) this/next week, and the only tricky part is getting a lift to use to simplify things, since my car is on a spring kit, only about 4-5" of clearance, and so far haven't had luck getting a jack under there.

I'm also planning to get a tuneup sometime very soon, and then do all the little things, before getting into tuning this thing too seriously.

Here's what I'm thinking so far, and I'm curious as to what order would be recommended, taking into account things that would be much easier to do together, and things that would be most beneficial.

Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Water Pump
Pulleys
Timing Belts
dipstick (my current one is w/o a handle :p)
Clutch
Flywheel
Slotted and Drilled Rotors


The only other thing that concerns me is my tranny....it will make a funny clicking noise on occasion, usually in 2nd gear, especially if I get the RPM's up there, in the 30-40 mph range. I think it's just the clutch disengaging kind of rough or something perhaps, ionno. Anyone have thoughts on how worthwhile it would be to have my tranny rebuilt, or at least maybe looked at.

Any other thoughts about minor upgrades, just to get things "nice and happy" before I start getting rough with it? I just want to have the car in good running order, so I don't have to worry about replacing a fuel pump, or anything silly like that when I'm trying to put money into an intercooler and turbo or something like that.

After that I think I'm going to make a job out of the interior, but that's another story altogether.

This reminds me, I need to put some decent pads on this thing pretty soon...god I love having all discs again....####ing hate drums w/ a passion.

I'm also planning on replacing most of the hoses and wires over the course of the next couple of months, trying to get this car geared up for summer.

Any suggestions, especially in regards to what order you think I should start tackling these in, and also, specific brand/models for these parts would be good too, I'm very interested to see what people think. I'm not trying to build some 500hp beast or anything like that, there are no $1500 intercoolers in this car's future, but like I said, I'd definitely like to get it in solid, dependably running order ;)

:dsm:diab0liK:dsm:
 
Oh, and also, anyone have suggestions on a HO Alternator? I'm probably going to be running 2kw by the end of the year, and I am definitely going to need some more amperage for that.

:dsm:diab0liK:dsm:
 
umm thats alot of questions lets see.

i would do ALL maintance first, you cant have a fast car thats not reliable or overheating as you said. All those coolant hoses to the turbo and water cooler can leak sometimes so check them all out.

assuming your NOT rich

rotors - unnecesssary unless your car needs them IE vibrating while braking even then just get stockers and spend the money elsewhere

pullies- you have a turbo car now id say your money can be used more efficiently other places that will give you way more bang for the buck. then 300 pullies that remove a couple pounds :rolleyes:

clutch- i wouldnt do untill its necessary, you need to attempt to adjust your clutch master cylinder to try and improve shift quality, bleed the system ect. thats most commonly the problem not a bad tranny.

all the other ones sound like good ideas if there necessary, might want to use a 1g stick i think there better made.

as far as alternators the only thing i know is canadian alternators are 90amp and us are 75amp? probably wrong put the point is the Canadian one has a little more power.

Your idea of getting your car reliable and dependable first means your thinking clearer then most and off to a good start. good luck!

ps if you need a radiator ive got a new extra 2g one in brighton.
 
You're right in assuming I'm not rich, but I'm also not excessively poor, and I'm good at setting money aside, so I figure I can put aside about $100 a week or so, I'm going to start saving 5's and 1's...really good method if you need to save money, I just go out of my way to break 10's and 20's, and never spend 5's or 1's, and at the end of the day shove them into a jar or something, and then when it gets about ready to overflow, it's usually $400 or so. (Random to mention this, I know, but I'm stoned as hell, and it's 4am, so wtf :p)

I'll look into bleeding my clutch--that sounds like a good idea.

As far as pulleys, I wasn't going to go all the way to the $300 mark, just $150 or so, but you're probably right, I'll put that off for the time being.

I do plan to change all the hoses, I actually have one that's leaking a very tiny amount (a drip every 5 seconds) that I'm going to be replacing in the next day or two. Are all heater hoses generic, or do I need to get eclipse specific ones?

Other than that, I'm just going to do random hoses/clamps and wires over the next month or two.

I do need some new rotors, the few times that I've really pushed my car, in a neighborhood or something, and had to stop fast, I've definitely got some shuddering from the rotors, they're a bit warped, and the pads aren't in the best shape (not that they're in the worst either). I'm at least going to get some slotted rotors, just for the mildly better performance, and I can get a decent set for like $80, as opposed to the like $50-$60 for some generic rotors.

I might look into a 1g stick, but I think I'm going to get a new short-throw this summer. I'm planning to MOMO the #### out of the interior after I get the majority of the minor, and probably some of the more major mods (after turbo and intercooler, for sure). Not sure what the plan is yet, the car is currently burgundy, I'm going to repaint it black, most likely, and then probably put some black 18's on it (not sure what yet, but I've got it down to about 10 or so :p), and do the interior either black and yellow, or black and red (the more I think about it, the more I like the red--I'd really like to do black w/ white, but there'd be way too much custom shit to do, and it's not worth the hassle/money).

Yada yada yada, there's a bunch of other shit, but like I said, for now, I'm just keen on getting everything happily running.

Thanks for the input ;)

:dsm:diab0liK:dsm:
 
I wouldn't get slotted rotors just yet. The slots are like a cheese grater and they'll wear your pads out faster than they normally would with non slotted. Besides, they won't make a diffference in stopping power unless you're on a track where the brakes are heavily used.

What condition is the brake fluid in? If it's black or a dark color, then it's time to flush the system. All of that water that accumulated in there over the years will add to the spongy feeling you have when you get on the brakes. Have the rotors turned (they're probably still in good shape, unless your mechanic says that he has to take too much material out to be safely used), replace the brake pads with something like EBC green pads (your money is better spent there), and flush the brake system and replace it with new fluid.

As far as the clutch goes, unless it's on it's way out, don't replace it. Not until you've done some upgrades on your engine and your clutch can no longer handle the power. When that happens, replace with an ACT 2100 or 2600 lb clutch. A lighter flywheel in my opinion isn't that important that you need to get one right away. If you're trying to gain that extra tenth of a second on the quarter mile sure, but as a maintenance item, I say no way.

Same goes with the fuel pump. Replacing that with a higher flowing unit will be part of your modification process. No need to replace stock with stock, a good walbro 190 or 255 with an AFPR will do just fine.

Everything else looks fine, but I'd like to add a few items that you can replace as well.

Spark plugs
spark plug wires
PCV valve
Radiator hoses (if they're cracked/bulged)
Alignment
Check CV joints for torn boots

Don't be in a rush to modify either until you know that your car is ready to go. I spent a year just making sure my talon was in good shape before I did anything beyond a K&N (bro!) and exhaust. The last ting you need is to spend all that money on a whoop-de-damn fast turbo and have it break 1000 miles after you installed it.
 
Thanks for the suggestions....I am going to do the plugs and wires, etc, sometime soon.

I'm going to flush and replace all the fluids to vfaq spec, I would just feel a lot better that way ;)

After that, I think I'm going to do the timing and balance belts, as well as the water, and probably oil pumps. Any brand suggestions for these? I don't mind dropping the dime for good belts and pumps, definitely a worthwhile upgrade.

Only thing I have to do now, is force myself to hold off on this alarm I ran into the other day...

Asianwolf 8000 RS Deluxe

$199 for an alarm, w/ shock sensor, pager, horn that will be mp3 enabled soon (I can't even begin to imagine the classic applications for this :p), remote start, keyless entry, and best of all, it has a turbo timer!

I'm definitely not dealing w/ the 57 harnesses that come w/ it, but I don't mind paying for an install--any alarm that costs more than $79 isn't worth the effort to throw it in....way too much hassle.

And yeah, whenever I get around to a new fuel pump, I will deifnitely spend the extra bones for an upgraded one :D

I spent 4 hours freezing my ass off outside w/o a coat today (b/c I was wearing my goosedown northface...lil puffy to be working in an ecliplse in :p), rewiring my car. Got everything done but the door, and it already has some 16 or 18 guage oxygen free cleanly run to it, so I'm just going to leave it for the time being. Got a hell of a deal, on wire, too, some monster 14 guage, 4-conductor, for $1 a foot!

Thanks for the tips mang ;)

:dsm:diab0liK:dsm:
 
if u really want to get slotted or dirlled rotors, get the ones that's slotted, dirlled ones are useless...

If u r changing all the clutch and brake fluid, maybe u can get some ss clutch and brake lines too....

Also changed the tranny, x-case, and r diff fluid.
p/s fluid
battery, if need a new one...
 
yeah, like I said, I'm doing ALL the fluids to vfaq specs, so they should be good and happy.

My battery is actually fairly new, in fine shape. I'll upgrade it when I do the stereo.

Speaking of that, anyone have suggestions on an HO alternator? I know alex said the canadian ones are 90...that sounds interesting at least...I'd like something more in the 100+ range, but I'll take what I can get :p

Everyone seems to be up in arms about the slotted rotors. I'm not going out and blowing my first $300 on slotted rotors or anything, don't worry. I migiht get some at some point, but if nothing else, I can probably get these machined back to true, and run them for the time being.

:dsm:diab0liK:dsm:
 
Also change your headlights and foglight bulbs, to be on the safe side. Better yet, change every bulb possible, inside and out.

Can't go fast in the dark. :thumb:
 
easy way to get a good HO alternator is to go to a junk yard and pick up a dead one for 20 bucks. take it to a alternator shop and have them wind it to YOUR specs. Mine is currently a 115 amp and I love it.

as to the stick that was mentioned...

[ghetto quote]I might look into a 1g stick, but I think I'm going to get a new short-throw this summer. I'm planning to MOMO the #### out of the interior [end ghetto quote]

he was referring to the 1G dipstick. You can put whatever shortthrow shifter in the interior with all the MOMO you can find, but it wont affect your oil dipstick. :D


:laser:
 
heh, keen observation on the dipstick.

I guess the quality of the construction of my dipstick just isn't a priority to me for some odd reason...

Yeah, I do need some new foglamps, too, mine are currently dead. New headlights aren't a bad idea, maybe I'll get some good ol' hellaciously obnoxious to drive towards xenons :p

I honestly didn't know you could have any old random alternator wound to whatever amperage you wanted...that's very interesting. Any idea how much it would be (looking for a rough guesstimate here obviously) to get it wound to 100amps or so?

:dsm:diab0liK:dsm:
 
frigginlazer said:
[ghetto quote]I might look into a 1g stick, but I think I'm going to get a new short-throw this summer. I'm planning to MOMO the #### out of the interior [end ghetto quote]
:laser:

can i just ask why you would want to "momo" the shit out of your interior? :confused:
 
can i just ask why you would want to "momo" the shit out of your interior?

I'm just a fan of momo accessories, I'm going to do an all or mostly mom interior, probably either in black/red or black/yellow. That's definitely in the future though.

Do you have issues w/ momo products or something?

:dsm:diab0liK:dsm:
 
diab0liK said:
I'm just a fan of momo accessories, I'm going to do an all or mostly mom interior, probably either in black/red or black/yellow. That's definitely in the future though.

Do you have issues w/ momo products or something?

:dsm:diab0liK:dsm:

This reminds me of a guy (not comparing you to him) who joined westpadsm and listed his "mods" they were all things like: momo floor mats, momo steering wheel, momo shift knob, momo pedals. There seriously wasn't one performance mod done to this kids car. :rolleyes:

Random tangent.. sorry.
 
You forgot the Polk/Momo sound system. :p

I happen to like their rims and steering wheels. But the shift knobs do their best to look a bit out-of-place in any situation.
 
This reminds me of a guy (not comparing you to him) who joined westpadsm and listed his "mods" they were all things like: momo floor mats, momo steering wheel, momo shift knob, momo pedals. There seriously wasn't one performance mod done to this kids car.

Random tangent.. sorry.

Heh.

Yeah, I will probably do an all-momo interior (love the wheels, too), but that DEFINITELY comes post-performance, or at least after most performance (i.e. new intercooler and turbo, clutch, and all the other little shit)

I might go polk for the interior speakers, but audio is kind of my specialty, so I'll definitely get something anal-retentively nice.

I also used to be sponsored by infinity sound, and they're putting out fking SUB AMPS NOW! I'm a huge infinity fan (even though I've blown like 9 12.1 dvq's), and the amps are not only hossy, but sexy as a beast as well. Just b/c they're infinity though, they had to go and make them all ####ed up ass wattages...like 476 x 1, 113 x 4, etc.

I'll probably be putting some infinity reference or kappa series for my interiors until I can really splurge, I can't get by w/o something sounding decent for much more than a month b4 it drives me crazy. I currently have no subs or rears, and it makes me want to cry on a daily basis :p

So, other than mocking me for liking momo, anybody else have input? :D

Thanks for the comments btw, always a good chuckle :thumb:

also, one time, this wise old man, he told me that sleeping was good.

I didn't believe him.

:dsm:diab0liK:dsm:
 
When I got my 95 gsx it shifted like crap I put in BG syncro shift 2, I love the stuff the tranny shifted much smoother
 
psi4mymitsu said:
When I got my 95 gsx it shifted like crap I put in BG syncro shift 2, I love the stuff the tranny shifted much smoother

Yeah, it's not that it shifts rough, really, shifts quite smoothly, actually.

It's when I let off the accelerator at high rpm's in second (i.e. above 30-35 or so--4-5k rpm or so)

When I let off the accelerator, there's an audible click. Higher pitch than the one associated w/ turning, but still doesn't sound "happy".

I've been trying to just avoid downshifting to 2nd, but I usually downshift to 2nd to stop my car, and every time I do it, it makes that pinging noise, and lurches a bit, I'm just waiting to here something snap/break one of these times.

Like I said though, it's this wheel thing that has me nervous.

:dsm:diab0liK:dsm:
 
About the clicking noise, I think you said it does it when you turn also....does your clutch ever stick when turning left? Because if it does it might be crankwalking, in which case you might need to do more than just some little things.
 
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