Replacing clutch

[bjmauck]

I'm buying a 98 gsx with bad clutch. Any suggestions on a replacement? It's gonna be mildly modded and daily driven. My 99 has an act and have had no problems with it. I'm kinda scared of a puck style clutch for a dd.

 

[Tiki2777]

Why are you scared of a puck clutch?

 

[3kgt2nv]

For a dd you can do what ever will hold the power the car will make. A unsprung puck will chatter a little bit more and give a harsher engagement but long term will not have a chance to shoot the springs out and they can take more power to the wheels.

If its only going to be mildly built go with a full face sprung disc and drive it.

 

[bjmauck]

I'm scared of the puck design because its a daily driver and doesn't seem like it will last.

 

[twicks69]

There is absolutely no need for a puck clutch for a stock or mildly modified daily driver.

If you do a search for clutches, you will see which ones are being recommended the most. South Bend Clutch, Competition Clutch, Fidanza, and ACT are all decent options.

For a low HP daily driver, I would go with the South Bend Clutch SS-Series pressure plate with TZ-Series sprung hub full face kevlar clutch kit.

 

[Tiki2777]

There is absolutely no need for a puck clutch for a stock or mildly modified daily driver.

If you do a search for clutches, you will see which ones are being recommended the most. South Bend Clutch, Competition Clutch, Fidanza, and ACT are all decent options.

For a low HP daily driver, I would go with the South Bend Clutch SS-Series pressure plate with TZ-Series sprung hub full face kevlar clutch kit.

Does haveing a sprung 6-puck clutch on a daily hurt you though?

 

[Arnie]

There is absolutely no need for a puck clutch for a stock or mildly modified daily driver.

If you do a search for clutches, you will see which ones are being recommended the most. South Bend Clutch, Competition Clutch, Fidanza, and ACT are all decent options.

For a low HP daily driver, I would go with the South Bend Clutch SS-Series pressure plate with TZ-Series sprung hub full face kevlar clutch kit.

Alright I'ma interupt , but since we are talking about clutches! I will be needing to replace mine when I have money!

What kind of clutch should I get?
I have no mods, just stock, I have seen a few kits, but wasn't sure which one to get!
Maybe eventually a intake / headers... not sure... for mods

The car is a daily driver!

 

[YanDsm]

I'm running an act2100 with a sprung 6 puck in my daily driven 1g and i'm really happy with it. The clutch engagement is really similar to a full face street disk.

 

[twicks69]

Alright I'ma interupt , but since we are talking about clutches! I will be needing to replace mine when I have money!

What kind of clutch should I get?
I have no mods, just stock, I have seen a few kits, but wasn't sure which one to get!
Maybe eventually a intake / headers... not sure... for mods

The car is a daily driver!

Since you are a 420a / T350 (A578) transmission setup, you would want to go with a South Bend SS-Series pressure plate and TZ-series kevlar disk MODULAR CLUTCH ASSEMBLY. Part number: K70131SSTZ -- It is around $500 shipped.

 

[twicks69]

Does haveing a sprung 6-puck clutch on a daily hurt you though?

It doesn't hurt you; it simply makes it more interesting to drive. I wouldn't be doing clutch dumps with it if you like your transmission in one piece.


A full-face clutch disk can handle the capacity when the proper friction materials are used for the application. That, in conjunction with the proper matching pressure plate and using the right flywheel for the application make a world of difference.

For example, I regularly put people into a full kevlar sprung-hub full-face clutch disk for daily drivers with mild bolt-on's on a soft pressure plate (2200#) with either a stock flywheel or an ACT chromoly flywheel (SBC SS-Series pressure plate with TZ-Series disk kit).

I normally offer the following for DSM's with the 4G63 engine:

Quick Product Breakdown:

SS-Series Pressure Plate = 2200# Clamping Force
SS-X Series Custom Pressure Plate = 2700# Clamping Force

TZ-Series Clutch Disk = Full Face Kevlar Clutch Disk
OFE-Series Clutch Disk = Full Face Organic/Feramic Clutch Disk
TZ/FE-Series Custom Clutch Disk = Full Face Kevlar/Feramic Clutch Disk
TZ/B-Series Custom Clutch Disk = Full-Face Kevlar/Segmented Ceramic Clutch Disk
DXD-B Clutch Disk = Segmented Ceramic Clutch Disk
DXD-F Clutch Disk = 6-Puck Feramic Race Clutch Disk

Past 550-600TQ, I normally recommend the Quarter Master Gear-Drive twin disk assembly with two different friction materials (street or race), and up to three different flywheel weights including: stock weight (AWD applications only ~16#), street (FWD/AWD applications ~9.5-10.5#), race (AWD applications only ~6#) and have flywheels available for 6bolt AWD/FWD and 7-Bolt AWD/FWD. Each combination requires a different length flywheel bolt depending on the application. Normally the race flywheels require a 19.5mm flywheel bolt or a 17.0mm flywheel bolt, and the street applications use a 21.2mm flywheel bolt or 22.5mm flywheel bolt. The stock-weight ones use a 22.5mm flywheel bolt and are only available in 6bolt or 7bolt AWD. As well, I offer different surface finishes to the flywheel, pressure plate and floater plate depending on which clutch disk friction option is selected. I also regularly offer the Competition Clutch forged steel clutch fork to be used with the OEM TOB, TOB clip, and OEM clutch fork pivot ball. I offer the race applications in two versions of clutch assemblies as well -- the 6-leg 7.25" V-Drive Rally clutch cover/floater plate/pressure plate, or the 8-leg 7.25" Optimum-V Rally clutch cover/floater plate/pressure plate with steel legs.

Either way, a twin-disk clutch is totally unnecessary for your applications listed.