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Removed FP Mani, how bad does tris look?

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projekt1

15+ Year Contributor
436
2
Nov 21, 2006
NorCal, California
So I decided to remove my FP Manifold to replace a suspected exhaust leak from the exhaust gasket and mani to turbo gasket. Some how I managed to jump a thread (or something) on one exhaust stud that it pulled the whole stud out. Additionally I manage to bend one of the turbo bolts. All ARP hardware.. Once everything was removed I noticed the light brownish stuff on the turbo and gasket. On the exhaust mani gasket there's obvious sign of leaks everywhere along with oil both on the gasket and head.

My plan was just to replace both gaskets and call it a day but this is a DSM so I should have hoped for the best and expected the worst.. Now what....

What do you guys think?
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Those copper gaskets seem to be complete junk unless the surfaces are PERFECTLY smooth. I used a copper gasket on my previous turbo setup and I could NEVER get that thing to seal. I pulled the manifold off atleast 4 times. Even planed the manifold flange flat but the head surface was still not flat enough. I would go back to an OEM 4 layer gasket and call it a day. But that brownish stuff is normal. All my exhaust housings had it and I never had any problems with those engines.
 
Those copper gaskets seem to be complete junk unless the surfaces are PERFECTLY smooth. I used a copper gasket on my previous turbo setup and I could NEVER get that thing to seal. I pulled the manifold off atleast 4 times. Even planed the manifold flange flat but the head surface was still not flat enough. I would go back to an OEM 4 layer gasket and call it a day. But that brownish stuff is normal. All my exhaust housings had it and I never had any problems with those engines.

That's what is was thinking about the copper gaskets. I originally had the copper mani to turbo gasket as well but half of it disappeared so I replaced it with the metal crush gasket.. I have both metal gaskets that came with the mani laying around so I think I will give those a try since FP must have decided they were good enough to sell right:hmm:... Ok good to know that the brownish stuff is normal. Even the wheel looks like really old milk chocolate :p

What about the ARP harware, is it normal for them to bend like that and for the nut to jump threads and get stuck?
 
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The reason for the blown gasket on the turbo to manifold flange is due to the ring not being there. That ring is to keep this from happening and when most people port there manifolds you can no longer use that ring.
 

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The reason for the blown gasket on the turbo to manifold flange is due to the ring not being there. That ring is to keep this from happening and when most people port there manifolds you can no longer use that ring.

What ring are you referring to? Does my FP mani have this ring? I had the copper embossed gasket before but like I said above, half of it disappeared LOL...
 
This is what the ring look's like.
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It smooths out the flow from the Manifold to the turbo but also acts to protect the gasket as well


Quoted from RRE's website.

"We also have the factory sealing rings to fit the 7cm size opening. This gives the gasket some protection if you leave the step there on the manifold and the turbo".
 

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^ true

That will happen when you run no insulating metal O ring and the factory or factory style gasket between the turbo and turbo manifold hotside.
I have my collection of mistakes still.
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As far as your head to manifold gasket, before you use the factory 2 layer or the 4 layer metal gasket, make sure the surface is clean on both sides. Then use proper torque and torque sequence when installing.
 

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Should I expect the metal gaskets that came with the mannifold from FP to fail? What gaskets do you guys recommend?

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check some of this thread out, it talks about copper gaskets. alot of good information


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...-copper-turbo-inlet-gasket.html#post152535293


Those copper gaskets seem to be complete junk unless the surfaces are PERFECTLY smooth. I used a copper gasket on my previous turbo setup and I could NEVER get that thing to seal. I pulled the manifold off atleast 4 times. Even planed the manifold flange flat but the head surface was still not flat enough. I would go back to an OEM 4 layer gasket and call it a day. But that brownish stuff is normal. All my exhaust housings had it and I never had any problems with those engines.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...-copper-turbo-inlet-gasket.html#post152535293 - this is one about sealign surfaces

I am using copper gaskets, they work great, seal great and expand quickly. A copper gasket is a crush gasket, ti works the same way as ta crush washer the the matting surfaces.



People have use the oem 4 ply exhaust manifold gasket for years with great results. close to 400 hp. They are also reusable.
 
Javier, It looks as if it blew out at the same spot as before. You may want to try and chase the threads on that corner.Or verify both surfaces are flat. Which bolt jumped a tread? They should not have siezed as the anti-seize we used is designed for 2000* + in turbine engines. Did you try to re torque them when you got back after leaving my house that night?
 
Wow, when I blew my mani to turbo gasket, I got peices, haha. I was doing a 1-4 test pull and in the middle of 3rd it got super laud, I thought I blew my turbo. I got home and opened my hood, there were peices of my gasket scattered through my engine bay. I got the two coppers (mani/turbo, turbo/o2 housing) and the ARP turbo botls and I have not had any problems with them at all!
 
Javier, It looks as if it blew out at the same spot as before. You may want to try and chase the threads on that corner.Or verify both surfaces are flat. Which bolt jumped a tread? They should not have siezed as the anti-seize we used is designed for 2000* + in turbine engines. Did you try to re torque them when you got back after leaving my house that night?

Yea I'll do all of that. Yea I torqued them again.

Anyone else notice the massive carbon buildup?

I know right...
 
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