Street Build Red5.

[miliman13]

Nice Im painting mine or respraying it just hate wet sanding looks good.

THANKS, turns out i dont like it either, if it comes out right you should be good with a cutting pastes + buff, wet sanding blows.

 

[GST with PSI]

I believe it when I see it! Is that the same gun you used on those wheels? Because they came out Devine. Honestly ill be buying a quality gun for the next "merry go round" maybe even the same brand as yours. Thanks for taking an interest I appreciate it a little more, since you can relate ,since you have an exceptional build many of us are fans of. When that time comes ill remember to I.m you.

Yeah, I used my Devilbiss gun to spray my wheels. I was extremely happy with how they turned out, and I appreciate your compliments.

Devilbiss makes some nice guns, but you'll pay for them. I've used a few Sharpe guns as well, and they performed pretty good too. A good paint gun is definitely an investment IMO. I've made my money back on what the gun cost me just by doing a few side paint jobs for friends. Invest in a good gun, and I'm sure you won't regret it. As always, feel free to hit me up with any questions you may have.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Yeah I need to get my detailers cutting paste and a new pad for more aggressive cutting polish and the wax.

 

[miliman13]

Update :
So i spent some time trying to diagnose a "bog/cut/stall ect" for months with no luck.
So now that graduated college (1st Half) i have a break to begin with the new goal..

I plan to pull the motor identify the low compression 120 120 120 150
and rebuild.
I plan to dial in my cams and shoot for high.

Started tearing already.
Had to stop since i need a 5mm hex socket thing to pull my arp head studs.

 

[miliman13]

Progress: soon I will know how many valves I will need... Keep in mind I also have alot of other projects going on at the same time.

Engine crane is a back saver!!

 

[Mauispyder]

You're an animal. I appreciate all the work you've done on the car and your service to your country as well. Thank you.

 

[miliman13]

Your an animal. I appreciate all the work you've done on the car and your service to your country as well. Thank you.

Thank you for the positive feedback!!!! Much appreciated.

 

[miliman13]

Started using the euro tool, man its a pain at first it's almost like you are making threads on the way down. I had to stop I got two down I'll try pneumatic impact.

 

[miliman13]

So 400ft,lbs with an impact later and got the valves off. Thing is none of them look bent?? So either they were not seating right or its the block.....

The intake.

Exhaust

 

[miliman13]

So is anyone following?
MY comp was 120 120 120 150

and my valves look straight and no appearance of contact like i suspected.??\

Now the head was machined and had a full job done to it prior, so my question is is it possible the seats and valve didn't seal? any other top end possibilities ?

First time using a lever, wow ! i have no idea how i have done it with it before.
So i will be checking piston to wall clearance and ring condition to see if that could be the cause of bad compression.

 

[Type1DSMr]

I'm following. Just read the whole build. Wow, she has gone though many ups and downs. Congrats on sticking with it. Does it still have a 6 bolt in it (at least going back in )?

 

[miliman13]

Yeah above ^ that's a Plymouth 92 long block. Pretty cool

Yeah it will always have a six bolt since I have 2x more 6b spares + 1x 7 bolt.

Pulling the block so I can shave/paint/wire tuck the bay. And blue print the block and bore it .40 if I have to.


I ment is anyone following the question about the seats leading to faulty comp..

 

[DogWhistle]

Yes, bad valve seating will contribute to bad compression, but none of yours look obviously bent or burned. Unless it was a consistently bad valve job to begin with, it would be highly unusual for all of the valve seats to go bad and produce almost identical results across all cylinders.

If your valve seals were bad, your crankcase would be pressurized. Still, you should have the valves and seats reground.

To bring compression numbers that low, you likely have worn rings.

 

[miliman13]

Yes, bad valve seating will contribute to bad compression, but none of yours look obviously bent or burned. Unless it was a consistently bad valve job to begin with, it would be highly unusual for all of the valve seats to go bad and produce almost identical results across all cylinders.

If your valve seals were bad, your crankcase would be pressurized. Still, you should have the valves and seats reground.

To bring compression numbers that low, you likely have worn rings.

Ass I now suspect; the car ran for to long heavily rich. I have heard of this leading to rings failing... I will know the extent later. Fortunately my machinist is beyond willing to check valves for run out and seats.. Thanks for the comment I was looking to discuss it.

 

[miliman13]

Spoke to a friend. Suggested looking into carbon build up on the ring Lands as a possible contributor to bad compression. Just managed to get her on the stand today.

You can clearly see tthe hone marks all on Walls. From 1-4

 

[miliman13]

Rod bearings look good, based on my lack of experience.
Crank looks good and walls do to...
I suspect rings, there appears to be carbon build up..

 

[miliman13]

While I wait for the machine shop, I managed to strip the bay for wash/sand/bondo/primer, paint.

I was able to leave the A/C system completely connected , just moved it out the way a bit. Trying to save money on refrigerant and safe the world all at the same time.
Also moved the PS lines out the way, and got rid off the ABS mistake that was in the bay.

 

[DogWhistle]

You're making good progress. It's discouraging to have to go back and re-do basic stuff, but we've all been there. I like that it makes a chance to do some extra things, like you are with the engine bay.

Let us know the diagnosis once the machine shop has had a look at the engine.

 

[miliman13]

You're making good progress. It's discouraging to have to go back and re-do basic stuff, but we've all been there. I like that it makes a chance to do some extra things, like you are with the engine bay.

Let us know the diagnosis once the machine shop has had a look at the engine.

Thanks bro... Here's the current update. New piston to wall clearance is about .004 after the hone. It turns out the block had steel sleeves, and one came out during the honing process so new sleeve and back on.
It was cheaper then redoing another block and boring.

I'll provide more pics and info once block is back.... Right now in looking for another temporary cheap reliable car since mine died had to junk it. It was a crap cavalier. So this is seeting me back..

 

[miliman13]

Picked up everything from the shop today. Will attempt to build it up next weekend.

Block milled 0.005
Crank micro polished
Head resurfaced.

 

[donniekak]

Get a gallon of wd40 and fill the ports with it. Look for any leaking around the valves into the combustion chamber. You can only do 8 at a time as the head has to sit on its side for a couple hours.

 

[miliman13]

Get a gallon of wd40 and fill the ports with it. Look for any leaking around the valves into the combustion chamber. You can only do 8 at a time as the head has to sit on its side for a couple hours.

That's good advice. Question I wanted to relap the valves can I get away with using a drill or should I just do it by hand. Second what grit do you recommend I know there is more than one.

 

[donniekak]

I use the fine paste, a piece of hose, and a variable speed drill to lap valves.

 

[miliman13]

Right now I'm focusing on the head only.
The following pics are self explanatory. Enjoy.

 

[SomeGoFast]

Keep up the hard work the car looks fantastic i wish i had the balls to try and respray mine