rebuilding TB

[4g63turbo84]

i have just got my hands on a 1g non turbo TB and i readied that they are the biggest OEM TB (budget upgrade), now i have also read that this TB is not made for boost so having it rebuilt would be a good idea??and if so could i do it, or should i have a shop do it and who dose that kind of work????

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Yes, you can use a 1G NT TB on a Turbocharged system. First, you must replace the throttle plate shaft seals with better quality seals. There are already
older posts that you can search out to get part numbers.
Let me just say right up front, that the only reason to increase the flow rate of
air/fuel mixture into the intake is if you are going to use a ported head and or 1 mm oversize valves. Also, having the block cylinders bored to 0.040" over will help the engine 'breathe' better. If you want more power, you can increase the boost and the fuel outputs. You will also need a higher flowrate fuel pump.
Just adding one or two mods is not the way to go if you are looking for more reliable power. The engine has to viewed as a system.

You got one part right, you will need to replace the throttle plate shaft seals which is recommended to have done by a professional. You do not need a ported head of 1mm oversized valves to run a bigger throttle body. LOTS of people do it on stock port heads. You will however need to increase the inlet on the intake manifold to match the throttle body. Boring the block .040" has nothing to do with better flow. Sure it will add a tiny amount of cubic inches but it is done to get the cylinder walls straight and matched to the piston because there is scoring or damage to the wall. There is more to it than just increasing the "boost and fuel outputs" He will need to get the proper modifications, pump, regulator, injectors, mbc, tuning device, logging device, and other bolt on modifications first. Adding a couple mods at a time is the way to go when wanting more reliable power. Adding 14 mods at once usually raises problems and then you can't pinpoint what specific mod made the car react better or worse. My input it rebuild the throttle body if you feel comfortable being able to do it. If not send it to a professional.

 

[Yngvar]

It's not hard at all to replace your shaft seal I did it on my car and it was one of the easiest things I have done to it. Just us the vfaq write up and I go my seals at napa from the part number they give on the write up. Napa has to order them in for you. Here the link to the Wire up Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page

 

[the_mork]

Order your new seals from machv.com they are a little expensive but they are nice complete replacements which means you don't reuse the metal rings.

When you go to take the screws out of the throttle plate either use a torch for some gentle heat or tap your screwdriver into the heads of the screws so that the screwdriver gets more bite. The screws are installed with loctite so they will be a PITA to get out and if you strip one and have to drill it out they are a very uncommon size and thread pitch so they are hard to get replacements for.

 

[snowborder714]

The screws are installed with loctite so they will be a PITA to get out and if you strip one and have to drill it out they are a very uncommon size and thread pitch so they are hard to get replacements for.

Actually, it is a somewhat common size as I buy replacement ones for all the throttle bodies I rebuild at my local hardware store. I think they're a 5x.8x12 if I remember correctly.

 

[the_mork]

Then you are far luckier than I am. I searched a number of hardware stores in my area including a fastenal and the only way that I could purchase the screws was to buy a bulk box. I ended up replacing the ones that I stripped with ones out of an otherwise useless RVR throttle body, or at least useless except for the TPS, IAC, and FIAV.

 

[Yngvar]

When you go to take the screws out of the throttle plate either use a torch for some gentle heat or tap your screwdriver into the heads of the screws so that the screwdriver gets more bite. The screws are installed with loctite so they will be a PITA to get out and if you strip one and have to drill it out they are a very uncommon size and thread pitch so they are hard to get replacements for.

Using a good screw really makes a differences. When I tried with a craftsmen screw driver it wanted to strip out and then I use a matco and it came out no problem

 

[the_mork]

I was using a correct size snapon screwdriver.

I've gotten REALLY good at taking screws out recently though because my Jeep uses torx bolts all over with loctite.

 

[snowborder714]

I don't think having a "good screwdriver" will make that much of a difference. I have used many different ones and the one thing that works consistently now is an impact driver.

 

[the_mork]

The majority of impact drivers that I've used have sucked.

That is why at this point I generally recommend simply using a sharp screwdriver or a screwdriver with a carbide tip and using a hammer to tap it into place. This does two things that I'm sure you're already aware of, the first thing is that it causes the screwdriver to seat down and bed itself right into the head of the screw for a tighter fit and greater contact patch. The second thing it does is send deforming waves through the body of the screw and the threads which can break it loose and weaken the loctite. With a bit of gentle heat the screws come out like you just put them in.

Of course a good impact driver will do this all in one step but my experiences with them have made me simply move on. My problem is probably from using the harbor freight versions which tend to break the bits within seconds and have a tendency to not turn well.

 

[snowborder714]

I use a Craftsman one without any problems. I believe I did some reading on impact drivers before purchasing one and read the HF ones really sucked. Some people said they had them fall apart after 2 or 3 hits with the hammer.

Never heard of a screwdriver with a carbide tip - neat.

 

[4g63turbo84]

thanks for all the input....

 

[Calan]

I just plan on them requiring a drill and easy-out.

I also found them at Ace Hardware. I seem to remember them being something like 4mm x 6mm.

You might check out http://www.throttlebodys.com. I had him build mine a couple years ago (he's local here), which included an over-size bore job, modified throttle plate, and complete rebuild for around $150 I think.

 

[jjrock5]

I use a Craftsman one without any problems. I believe I did some reading on impact drivers before purchasing one and read the HF ones really sucked. Some people said they had them fall apart after 2 or 3 hits with the hammer.

Never heard of a screwdriver with a carbide tip - neat.

I actually used the Harbor Freight one for my TB and it worked out great. Two hits and each screw came loose. Ive used it a couple of times afterwards and its still working. If it ever fails I can go back and get another one since they have a replacement warranty.

Heres a pic in case anybody doesnt know what one looks like.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Hal]

The reason people strip the throttle plate screws is that they try to remove them using a "phillips" head screw driver.

A "posi" drive tip screw driver (phillips with a flatter tip) works much better.

The throttle plate screws are staked, so even after you get them to turn, you need to be diligent in keep the screw driver in place while taking the screws out. It's still possible to strip the threads for the first couple of turns.

The FIAV body screws can be a pain to remove as well.

I've found a high torque cordless drill and a posi bit work best.

If anyone needs rebuild parts, I sell complete kits (FIAV body & throttle plate screws, shaft seals, new biss & FIAV o-rings, and a new FIAV body gasket) for $35.

Using the proper tools and the VFAQ, anyone should be able to rebuild a throttle body.

 

[knochgoon24]

I ended up going through a myriad of driver bits before I found one that fit nice and snug. I had no problem getting the bolts out. I just kept a constant pressure to prevent stripping.

I used a socket to help tap the shaft seals in place. I also drew a line down the side of the springs with a sharpie, so I knew how much they needed wound back up.

Use dielectric grease to lube the shaft seals. It won't eat the rubber like other grease will.