The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

rebuild, missing anything I will need?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

spidy3

15+ Year Contributor
192
4
Jan 20, 2005
upstate, New York
Doing a full engine rebuilt, have list going, need to know if Im missing anything...
(most if not all will be purchased from SBR)

Prothane motor mounts
Mitsu. front cover w/ gears
Timing belt kit
timing belt cover
mitsu complete gasket set
mitsu metal head gasket
4 layer exhaust mani. gasket
turbo gasket kit

I am also going to redo my head with...

Comp 1012 cams
manley springs/retainers
Manley 1mm oversized valves (worth it?)
valve seals

are the stock valve guides good enough?


Thanks for help...

:talon: Dom
 
don't forget the crush washers for the turbo lines

don't go with the oversize valves, unless you are have a stroker motor built.
stock valve guides will work just fine, no reason to use aftermarket
 
I'm REALLY glad i found this list. I've been compiling my own but feel really uneasy about what i'll need. I'm curious what else would yall add to that if i were going to do the total rebuild with wiseco pistons and eagle rods? Bearings maybe? Not sure. Anything i should replace thats not on his list while its all apart?
 
1gcrazy said:
I'm REALLY glad i found this list. I've been compiling my own but feel really uneasy about what i'll need. I'm curious what else would yall add to that if i were going to do the total rebuild with wiseco pistons and eagle rods? Bearings maybe? Not sure. Anything i should replace thats not on his list while its all apart?

ARP head studs, and better rods, and revised 3G lifters
 
What rods would you suggest me use? Whats wrong with eagle? Would it be better if i bought a shortblock? I can built it but i dont wanna #### anything up. Oh and whats the front cover with gears?
 
1gcrazy said:
What rods would you suggest me use? Whats wrong with eagle? Would it be better if i bought a shortblock? I can built it but i dont wanna #### anything up.

Crower... if you're wallet can handle it. Eagle rods are good rods though. What kind of power are you looking to put down? I believe they can handle around 500hp.
 
if you are keeping the factory rods use arp harware on them new ring's and
berings would be good. good luck on the rebuild


juan
 
honestly, I want to build a ####in house. Start with a extremely strong foundation and ad onto what i have and not have to worry about my internals. So i have no idea, could stay around 300 or i could go nuts and try for 600+
I did build onto a 383 stroker shortblock, 2 450 holleys on a tunnel ram and a 150 shot to top it off stuffed into a 70 vette conv. so i love power and i've recently fallen head over heals in love with awd. we'll see where this goes though.
Short story long, i have no idea what kinda numbers i'm lookin for just dont wanna shoot myself in the foot when i want that 600+
Any suggestions? The wallets kinda small but i'll wait till the money comes in to do it right the first time
 
Water pump, new rings, bearings, stock size valves (ferrea on ebay go for $200 so in my opinion why not!?)

Personally id go with OEM parts and not through slowboy (IM NOT bashing them just they sell a lot of top line parts and Id never run them) Go to JNZ they sell OEM parts at very good prices or the dealer. If anyone wants it I have lists and part numbers from my many rebuilds ive done in the past. I guess you need to consider what you want out of this motor power wise and all...

Not to repeat but my list goes something like:
OEM... Block
-bearings
-piston rings
-gasket kit (includes crush washers, turbo gaskets, manifold gaskets... its complete)
-timing belt
-tensioner
-timing pulleys if needed
-water pump
-oil pump (front case)
-revised oil gears
-bshaft elimination, dont buy the kits get the parts OEM its cheap too
-Multi layer HG
-consider 2G pistons on 1G rods but can be costly

ARPs for Head at the least maybe for the rods, or go aftermarket

As for the head, get it cleaned up...use stock valves or a set of SS with the new valve seals in the gasket kit

Me personally I get carried away and make essentially a factory fresh motor... thermostat, any aged sensors, throw out bearing (OEM so its quiet) my water pipes were nasty... but more of the essentials are listed above
 
1gcrazy said:
The wallets kinda small but i'll wait till the money comes in to do it right the first time

Good way to do things.

The Crowers are probably some of the best rods you can get. Unfortunately, they run upward of $600.
 
There's been plenty of DSM's running Eagle Rods for years. Eagle claim 600HP to cover their butts but they have been proven to handle a lot more. Have you ever looked at one and held one in your hands? I remember this 10 second car years ago http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/features/0302scc_uscc2_06/ even ran with them and theres been plenty of people since then proving the same. I've seen a 900HP 4G63 run with them, also on a drag car in Australia which was making over 1000HP (changed rods now due to engine rebuilds). As long as your bottom end is in good condition and well balanced, I cant see why you cant use Eagles at all - depending on how much power you want form them naturally. Cheap does not always mean nasty! :D
 
Arp bolts, Eagle rods are just fine. B-shafts removed? That's what Road Race recommends and they know there shit. I would go to dsmporn.com and copy what ever he did to his car .
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top