Ready for More Upgrades!!!!

[dj_remy]

Okay, I got the Evo III 16g bolted on, a Lower IC pipe thats fits my SMIC with no leaks, now I'm ready for fuel upgrades so I'm gonna run by you guys to see if I'm def on the right track....

650cc injectors (used)
Walbro 255 lph fp (new)
Apexi SAFC II (used)
Halman Manual Boost Controler (new)

After installs, taking to local racing shop to go over everything and make sure its all gravy, but no AWD dino tester, oh well, (nearest one is 65+ miles away, not worth it for now).

Any good data logger advice?
Anything I missed?

 

[1992awdlaser]

I would deffinately think about getting a wideband also.

Sorry, no advice about the logger. I never dealt with them because I went straight to dsmlink.

 

[dj_remy]

okay, newbie time, what will a wideband do for me in this setup, and is it neccesay?

 

[98GSXtreme07]

It allows for a much easier tune when on the dyno.

 

[dj_remy]

It allows for a much easier tune when on the dyno.

oh okay, well it will be awhile til I can get it out there for that, just want to know if i need to spend more money, or that stuff is enough to get me going good with me new turbo.

 

[1992awdlaser]

It will tell you exactly what your air/fuel ratio is instead of guessing by looking at the o2 volts. To me a wideband is needed on any modified car since it can save your engine.

 

[spooled_u_1st]

A wideband is very important. Without one you are tuning in the blind.

I would suggest the Innovate LC-1 Wideband. It has the capabilities of logging also.

 

[dj_remy]

Well then, I will def look into that then, a link would be cool, can't really find that particular one, and thats freakin expensive as shit, i thought the SAFC II would work out my fuel issues, am I wrong?

Nevrmind found one.......that really seems way over my head.....kinda discuraging.

 

[Secksthemex]

Don't forget about your upgrade at FPR

 

[dj_remy]

Don't forget about your upgrade at FPR

good shot, thanks.

Found a wideband, the top one is what i could afford what do you think?

XD-1 : Universal Programmable Digital Gauge / Air Fuel Ratio Guage

 

[b-morr]

Don't forget about your upgrade at FPR

I was about to say, you need to do this with the 255 fp or you will be running like crap.

 

[dj_remy]

I was about to say, you need to do this with the 255 fp or you will be running like crap.

okay, found the fpr, if i skip the injectors for now, will everything be okay, the safc isn't for sale anymore, plus i don't have all that money for everything, soooo...

255 fp
halman BC
fuel lab 515 fpr kit w/ gauge
glowshift boost/ oil pressure gauge with bezel


how will that work for me for a while?

or if I go with the 190 fp, will i still need the fpr?

 

[Atuca]

the 190ml fuel pump is good to about 400 horsepower I have read, and doesn't require an AFPR. I actually own a 190ml fuel pump right now, brand new when I bought one of my dsms, and I still have decided if it is the route I want to go. Even with a 190ml you can sitll sometimes over run your stock fpr, and it is recommended to have an AFPR just to insure you are really pushing the amount of fuel your car thinks it should be getting.

I'd go 255ml just to avoid running into pushing any sort of limit on the 190, and have plenty of room to grow, and with the 255ml being the same price as the 190 basicly, why not?

 

[1992awdlaser]

good shot, thanks.

Found a wideband, the top one is what i could afford what do you think?

XD-1 : Universal Programmable Digital Gauge / Air Fuel Ratio Guage

That one would work. I have this one and it is a little less expensive. Modern Automotive Performance  :: DSM  :: Electronics and Gauges  :: Wideband 0xygen (O2) Sensors  :: AEM Gauge-Type Wideband UEGO Controller

 

[TalonTsi31]

i am running a simialr set up to you man and i have the walbro(whine-bro)255 and an aeromotive AFPR w/ 10an aeromotive fuel rail and 650's. and i would highly recomend that set up. it gives you awsome power as well as expandability for the future. at 22 for a quarter second then with a broken boost controller falling to 14-16. so basically 16 psi i made 303 and 335. i know yoou are awd so would make less but never the less it is a killer set up.
also sent you a pm i have somthing you would be interested in
pat

 

[dj_remy]

I just didn't realize how much all this would be, I have to dothings in stages over a couple of weeks at a time. I just want to know is an safc and injectors imparative at this point, or will the FP, Boost Contoller and Gauges be okay for now, then get the safc and injectors later when i can afford them, then go with the wideband and others.

 

[dj_remy]

Okay, my buddie (mechanic schooling) says the 255 fp and FPR are good no matter what, boost contoller (manual) and the oil press and boost gauges should be good for now, that the injectors and safc can wait without harm, that fuel cut really wont be an issue with my auto tranny.

Is he correct, or blowing smoke up my ###?

 

[DSMvroom]

255lph + AFR and you are OK. Later, AFC must be installed at the same time or before injectors.

 

[dj_remy]

thank you much buddy, thats what i was looking for, buying right now.

 

[toojung2die]

Okay, my buddie (mechanic schooling) says the 255 fp and FPR are good no matter what, boost contoller (manual) and the oil press and boost gauges should be good for now, that the injectors and safc can wait without harm, that fuel cut really wont be an issue with my auto tranny. Is he correct, or blowing smoke up my ###?

I agree with your buddy. You need the AFPR with the 255 fuel pump. I ran my 190 on the stock FPR for a long time but got the AFPR to be safe. You will need the boost gauge to set the boost controller. Oil pressure gauge; that's optional. You can have fun with the stock injectors and they'll take surprising amounts of boost before you hit fuel cut. Fuel cut will be your friend with stock fuel system. It will let you know you exceeded the fuel system's safe limits. If you hit fuel cut, back off the boost until it's happy.

Purely conjecture, but your friend may know something about the 'auto trans = less fuel cut' and I didn't make the connection you mentioned it. I have an A/T. I ran 18 psi on stock injectors for one 1/4 mile run at "The Strip". Bad wheelspin and my worst run of the night but I didn't hit the fuel cut threshold. My pocket logger did show pulled timing at the top end, probably due to knock and my trap speed was lame. Which brings me to my next point.

All the advice given about the importance of having a WB to tune is true. But WB sensors have only recently become inexpensive enough for most people to consider adding one. If you go back five years or more in these forums you'll see tuning with S-AFC, a pocket logger and no WB was common. You have no way to log air/fuel ratio and no way to log knock on a 2G. You watched the timing curve. If timing was pulled, it was assumed to be knock induced by a too lean air/fuel ratio. It relied a lot on guesswork and engines have been sacrificed in the quest for horse power using this method but if you're conservative with your tune you can get along without a WB and bigger injectors until you have the money to buy one. But you'll need the pocket logger to have any idea what to do.

It's best to do it in stages. Install an upgrade and see what problems are created. Chances are the solution will be your next upgrade.

 

[dj_remy]

Okay, good advice thanks man, i REALLY appreciate. I was only getting the boost controller to lower boost til i could get the injectors and safc, but since you can't lower with them, nevermind on that.

I'm gonna get the 255 fp, the FPR, and the gauges (the oil pressure gauge come with the bezel setup, plus mine is broken and not working so awesome for me), so I can atleast get numbered readings on my boost and keep it under control.

I'm running stock 14psi and i'm a little worried something is going to go wrong, and i don't know how to lower my boost. ARGH! I'm so about to go back to stock and sell this 16g, this is frusterating when you don't have alot of money!

 

[toojung2die]

I'm running stock 14psi and I'm a little worried something is going to go wrong, and i don't know how to lower my boost. ARGH! I'm so about to go back to stock and sell this 16g, this is frustrating when you don't have a lot of money!

14-15 psi is the sweet spot I found when I had the stock fuel system. You should be fine and you will feel a noticeable increase in in the "butt dyno" over stock boost.
Turn the adjusting screw on the boost controller counter-clockwise to reduce boost, clockwise to increase. The best reason to own a DSM is you can get big increases in performance for a relatively small cost. Just be prepared to do some work. One of the least expensive diagnostic devices you need is a boost leak tester. Use it! Use it every oil change.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...hoot-boost-leak-tester-merged.html#post124615

 

[dj_remy]

okay, i feel better now, i just don't want to break it, it took me a long time to get this, so i want to be careful. so thanks.
as far as reducing boost, which controller (manual) do you recommend then? the halman has no screw.