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Re-Manufactured crankshafts

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afsdsm

10+ Year Contributor
82
1
May 28, 2009
Jupiter, Florida
I've been searching for a crank for my 6bolt stroker without much luck. Nothing at the junkyards, and even the dealer tells me they aren't made anymore so new is out. Napa sells a reman 4g64/g4cs crank for $210, but its says "precision ground & polished". is it ok to run a cut crank on a high hp set up? Any feedback appreciated.
 
I work at NAPA,and I hardly ever can even can get a listing for a crankshaft. Usually If the warehouse has one thats a reman,its probably because someone at one time seriously did some damage to it,not because someone was just replacing it and it required a core charge. You should keep checking the classifieds first. I'm not knocking NAPA's parts,its just I see alot that comes back as defective,and for an expensive stroker application it would be horrible to have it fail.
 
From personal experience I would say stay away from the re-manufactured cranks, when i did my rebuild I used one and after 30 mins of test drive I had the same problem again that I did the rebuild to fix. But on the other hand i have a 7 bolt so i guess that may be a factor and maybe i just had bad luck.
 
Well no matter what crank i go with my machine shop will be meticulously checking it. My question is for cut cranks in general. Oh and i spoke with three different napa's and they all found a listing but none stock it, they said it would have to be ordered from the manufacture. I've been checking the classifieds but i really want to know about this cut crank thing before i buy one they may end needing to be cut also.
 
I would get an eagle 100mm crank (makes a 2.3 in a 4g63 block)... Only ~$650 and brand spankin new, stronger than stock :hellyeah:
 
Well no matter what crank i go with my machine shop will be meticulously checking it. My question is for cut cranks in general. Oh and i spoke with three different napa's and they all found a listing but none stock it, they said it would have to be ordered from the manufacture. I've been checking the classifieds but i really want to know about this cut crank thing before i buy one they may end needing to be cut also.

It's not that reman cranks are just cut and polished either. Often they are welded on the journals and then cut back to std. They even weld broken cranks back together.
 
+1 Eagle makes really good cranks, and for the price you really cant beat it.

The Eagle crank was on my build list until i saw how much hp was being made on oem cranks. I thought that was one place i could save a few bucks. Im seriously considering dumping the 2.3 and building 2.0 since i already have a stock 6bolt crank that seems to be in pretty good shape. Also i would feel much more comfortable running eagle or manly rods. What about some of the cranks floating around on the classifieds? Is there any way to tell if its decent in a picture?
 
I have a G4cs crank and bearing set laying around, all prepped and ready to go into a motor. Unfortunately the crank has been ground, which is why it's still sitting in the box ROFL
 
I have a G4cs crank and bearing set laying around, all prepped and ready to go into a motor. Unfortunately the crank has been ground, which is why it's still sitting in the box ROFL

I dont understand what is so bad about a ground crank. If the job is done properly, and the correct bearings are used, whats so bad about it? Somone please explain. Wisemen?
 
I dont understand what is so bad about a ground crank. If the job is done properly, and the correct bearings are used, whats so bad about it? Somone please explain. Wisemen?

The mitsu 4g series cranks have a surface hardining process performed on them, nitriding. Grinding them thins, or eliminates this layer.
 
This is a hotly debated topic among dsm'ers. Some say you cant use a reground crank because of the reason posted above. When i did my research i found out that Mitsubishi offers .010 oversize bearings, thus they intended the crank to be ground if only slightly. Due to this i had my stock crank ground .010 and its been holding up but i havent put more than 100 miles on it. Its kind of a personal preference thing.
 
afsdsm,
Sorry, I am not anywhere near a Wiseman. However, I have recently been doing a lot of due diligence concerning a new or a remanufactured crankshaft decision. I had even PMed GooeyGus to learn about what he had been researching and deciding (he started his decision before me). After contacting several Vendors and Shops (Supporting Vendors/Shops on DSMtuners), I learned that going new is the "better" choice for reliability and durability. In contrast, a remanufactured crankshaft might be all right, yet the probability for its trustworthy reliability would be a trade off for the saved expense (according to Vendors/Shops not offering a remanufactured crankshaft). The Vendors/Shops that did not offer a remanufactured crankshaft explained that they omitted such an offer for a reason (dependability). I was informed that the choice was mine (like the choice is yours), but that saving $300 to $350 on a remanufactured crankshaft was not the "best" place to save my money during a small block rebuild. Consequently, I read a lot of posts about the subject of crankshafts. Using the information that I gathered from several Vendors/Shops, as well as from informative posts, my decision was made to definitely go with a new crankshaft. I decided on rebuilding a 6-Bolt stroker motor (instead of replacing my 7-Bolt internals and over-boring the block), meaning that I had to choose between a new OEM, or a new Eagle 100mm crankshaft (the only two "inexpensive" choices that I found). The only new OEM that I could locate was available at JAM
(100mm Forged Steel Crankshaft, 6 Bolt)
because local Hyundai dealers were not much help in locating a new G4CS crankshaft. I chose the Eagle 100mm. While I had thought about rebuilding my 7-Bolt, or even a 2.0L 6-Bolt, I noticed more options for a new crankshaft. The options included Eagle, Manley, and OEM (listed as a few "lower costing" [yet dependable] crankshafts that I had found
{http://www.maperformance.com/eagle-forged-4340-chromoly-crankshaft-88mm.html;
http://www.maperformance.com/manley-forged-crankshaft-7-bolt-dsm-evo-1901x0.html;
]JNZ Tuning Online- OEM Mitsubishi Parts
are random examples}).
Of course, there are much more expensive options available. Many of the DSMtuners posts that I read involved explaining the benefits of using a new crankshaft. Obviously, some posts did suggest doing what a specific budget allowed. I hope this helps in your decision process.
Jim
 
I dont understand what is so bad about a ground crank. If the job is done properly, and the correct bearings are used, whats so bad about it? Somone please explain. Wisemen?

As stated above, it grinds off the extra hardness coating on the surface. Some people decide to run these and have no problem. Its more of a personal preference thing, I'm sure it would still work okay. It's actually from my brother's car (1992 TSi AWD 6 bolt/4 bolt 2.3L with an FP3065... sexiest DSM I've ever driven.) which we built about 5 years ago. It's been sitting in it's nice little box ever since. I'm sure he'd sell it super cheap if you decide to go that route.
 
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