question about the act 2600 clutch

[95TSi_AWD_717]

i just bought an act 2600, my friend just told me since i pretty much have stock torque that the 2600 is to big and would eventually cause crankwalk in the car.. another friend told me if i disengage the clutch switch that i would releave the pressure, should i just buy the 2100 disc or is it fine to install the 2600

 

[kchaazz]

There are plenty of discussions regarding this in the forums which can possibly give you a more in depth explaination, however, I will give you my imput as Ive been using ACT clutches for years. In short, crankwalk isnt caused by this clutch, but rather a manufacturer defect in the 2g 7 bolt engine. 95 cars are considered to be the most likely to experience crankwalk, however, Im sure your car has close to or over 100,000 miles on the motor at this point, so if it hasnt happened yet, it probably wont.
Now, about the clutch. The 2600 is a beast of a pressure plate, so before installation, you MUST be sure that the hydraulic system is in good working order. I strongly recommend replacing the master and slave cylinders as they will be worn, and you will have headaches fighting to get the clutch to function properly.
That said, assuming the master and slave cylinders are good, there are two important things involved. First, when you have the trans off, take your flywheel to a shop to have it inspected, and to have the step machined to .610". This is not a suggestion, its required for this clutch to function properly. You may also look into just replacing the flywheel with a Fidanza or ACT performance piece while everythings apart, as these are typically already stepped properly anyway, though it never hurts to check before installation. Roadraceengineering has loads of info on all this.
Second is clutch adjustment. Jacks Transmissions has a video on this. It shouldnt be necessary to play with the switch youve mentioned. Are you familiar with where the fork lever is on the transmission? This is the way I adjust my clutch: Get everything put back together. Start the car. Push clutch pedal to the floor, shift into first, and slowly let the pedal up until the car starts to move. Note where the engagement point is, relative to the pedal position. If engagement is occuring close to the floor, adjustment is needed. You can then adjust the master cylinder rod out a little and check the engagement again. The way I adjust is to screw the master cyl rod out while a friend is under the car. Why? Because if you adjust the master cylinder rod out too far, you will block the bleeder inside the master and end up with the "pump up" everyone is always talking about. It is easy to check to be sure you havent over adjusted. Just have your friend push the fork toward the slave after every turn you make on the master cylinder rod. The fork should easily move with little effort. What I do is turn the rod out until the fork cannot be moved, then back it in little by little until the fork can be pushed and then tighten the jam nut on the rod, fire the car up and the engagement should be closer to the top, or a third of pedal travel. Hope this helps, and if you have any questions, let me know.

 

[bmoha2]

Oye! This could turn into a long post. Alot of us including myself upgraded a nearly stock Dsm to an act 2100. It's a fine clutch with a street disc. Lateron when I upgraded turbos and started running 21psi it started slipping and failed. That was after 8 years and 33k. Granted the car has sat broken for 3 of those 8 years. What do ya want? It's a dsm.
Act 2600 will definitively cause slave and master clutch cylinder to fail if they are showing their age. But... My both my slave and clutch master cylinders gave up the ghost shortly after installing the 2100. I'd plan on replacing them anyways.
There has been some discussion that having to depress the clutch on startup and having the clutch depressed the whole time you're at a stoplight can promote crankwalk. Especially if you have a heavier than stock clutch. That's where you're friends comment about the switch is talking about. I don't know. I don't have any factual information on it.
On a stock Dsm the 2600 is probably overkill. But if you're planning on upgrading turbo etc in the near future then it'd be a good choice. 2100 will hold up to a big T28 maybe a evo316G turbo

 

[CardShark]

95 cars are considered to be the most likely to experience crankwalk, however, Im sure your car has close to or over 100,000 miles on the motor at this point, so if it hasnt happened yet, it probably wont.

This is definitely true in general but my '98 GSX walked with 130K on the odo

In short, crankwalk isnt caused by this clutch, but rather a manufacturer defect in the 2g 7 bolt engine

While I agree that crankwalk is not CAUSED by the clutch, I think you definitely have to add it to the list of things that strongly contribute to it. Every time you press in the clutch, you are putting pressure on the thrust bearing and a stronger pressure plate like the ACT 2600 is definitely going to exert more pressure on the thrust bearing.

 

[Hitmachine101]

what ive read is that the best thing you can do is disconnect the clutch switch. The most wear and tear on your thrust bearing is when the car is off and you push the clutch in to start it. There s no oil pressure and ive read on this forum that its not a good idea.

Is the 2600 to much on the slave and master? I ve read guys having to replace them but as long as your driving habits dont have you with the clutch in at the traffic light and starting the car with the clutch in i think you wont have to worry about the dreaded crankwalk

 

[95TSi_AWD_717]

appreciate it everyone, i just found out im getting 3 grand a month from the military ### of some benefits i recieved when i got out, and i plan on putting most of my money into the car. but still gonna be some time before i start recieving money. i was going to just keep the car stock and have a motor aside to build up, to find out they discontinued the oem flywheels, so i just might as well start building up the tranny or get a sheppard tranny

 

[CardShark]

what ive read is that the best thing you can do is disconnect the clutch switch. The most wear and tear on your thrust bearing is when the car is off and you push the clutch in to start it. There s no oil pressure and ive read on this forum that its not a good idea.

Whether this works or not, you should definitely do it. I find it extremely annoying to have to push in the clutch to start the car, particularly when I just want fire it up to warm it without actually getting in the car. There is no downside to it other than having to remember the car is out of gear when you start it...THIS IS IMPORTANT!!

 

[kchaazz]

Well, as far as the switch is concerned, I have heard this discussion before and it does make sense, but Ive never had any issues stemming from an ACT 2600 regarding thrust bearing failure. One thing Id like to mention is the holding of the pedal to the floor at stop lights as was mentioned above. I am of the opinion that this is definitely not a good idea as it will certainly cause undue wear on the throwout bearing and fingers on the pressure plate, even with a stock clutch. As far as 2100 vs 2600 is concerned, Id much prefer the 2600 on even a mildly modded AWD DSM, as it is far too easy to hit over 300 bhp even with simple bolt ons, and I just wouldnt expect the 2100 to hold up. FWD cars can get away with the 2100 far longer than an AWD car any day, and the OP already has purchased this clutch. Just MHO.

 

[CardShark]

One thing Id like to mention is the holding of the pedal to the floor at stop lights as was mentioned above. I am of the opinion that this is definitely not a good idea as it will certainly cause undue wear on the throwout bearing and fingers on the pressure plate, even with a stock clutch.

+1 Very true

As far as 2100 vs 2600 is concerned, Id much prefer the 2600 on even a mildly modded AWD DSM, as it is far too easy to hit over 300 bhp even with simple bolt ons

Not true...it is definitely not easy to hit 300hp on a T25 with simple boltons.

 

[EclipticalGS]

I always use a 2600/ full face street disk no matter what, stock/built..Its just a nice all around clutch. The pedal pressure isn't that bad, ive never broken a fork, and it would hold 500hp+ for when I push it that high. It's better than buying a 2100 just to find out a year later you need a clutch upgrade because you want to go bigger engine/ turbo wise.

Driving daily with a 2600, street disk, lightweight flywheel and being a fwd, I can say its pretty decent.

+1 Very true




Not true...it is definitely not easy to hit 300hp on a T25 with simple boltons.

I dont find it very hard to get a t25 to 300 crank hp at all....Its actually pretty simple. Judging by how our cars come 210 factory.. Ive seen it done with intake, cams, exhaust, injectors, and a safc tune. Sure your maxing the t-25 out but its not that hard to get 300bhp.. now 300whp is a different story

 

[bmoha2]

Everybody likes the act2600. Stick with it. Replace the clutch master and slave cylinders. It's a good time to upgrade to a ss braided clutch line and get rid of that crap on the front of the tranny

 

[RadDsm]

It is also a good idea to replace the clutch fork and pivot ball.

 

[95TSi_AWD_717]

again i appreciate it. looks like im going to put the 2600 in and replace the parts you all just described, im bout to buy a 60 trim turbo cast iron manifold injen intake and a fmic along with the act streetlite flywheel, i have a friend who has a gsx and he's still harpin me saying to get the 2100 and get rid of the 2600, ive believe what he's talkin bout for the fact he runs high 11's in the quarter and puts all his parts in himself. me not being a good mechanic i asked him if he could put the parts in for me and he said he would but not that ### he doesn't want to be blamed when the motor crankwalks... now i bout the clutch used from someone ### he parted out his dsm ### he's bout to drop a supra motor in his 240 and the clutch still has a lot of life in it, and the pressure plate looks fine as well, so would it be fine to put that in or should i just buy a new one?

where the ### are i put c u z guess i need to put because

 

[Project_91Vr4]

Just a heads up to everyone using an ACT 2600 mine just failed after 15,000 miles on a 16g making 350ish to the wheels 2 tabs broke off and the pressure plate disc has multiple cracks in it

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Send it in for warranty replacement. I'm at 13k of hard 500+ hp abuse no such issues yet