Pulling Transmission Tomorrow

[DeNoZZo]

I am pulling my transmission tomorrow to replace the throw out bearing. I am pretty confident that I can do it. But I am still not sure how I am supposed to get the axles out. Vfaq's instructions just aren't doing it for me. And I have searched but I cant find a good detailed writeup on removing them. Could someone point me in the right direction or provide some insight? I also wanted to know exactly what tools I'll need. This will be my first time doing something this big in my garage.

 

[pboglio]

Good jack stands to get the car HIGH up in the air so you can roll the tranny out from underneath. I don't know how people do without one but I use a tranny jack. Getting the tranny back in is fun as hell as it will never line up without using a "long prybar" to pull the motor forwards away from the firewall to give room to the tranny line everything up. I also use an engine jack to move the motor up or down depending on how the tranny is sliding in as you will need to support the engine with a jack due to removal of the front/rear/tranny mounting points. This is more an art than science and whatever it takes to get the tranny slid in and lined up with the alignment dowels.

Axle castle nut is the biggest pain to get off, biggest impact gun you have and as shitload of PB blaster. Gonna need a slidehammer set to get the wheel bearing assembly off. Axle can then be pulled without pulling suspension control arms off. There are short cuts and I prefer to remove the bare minimum to do the tranny. There is way too much stuff to list here on what needs to be done. By far the thing that will stop you in your tracks is the axle castle nut removal and the alignment of the tranny going back into the motor. Everything else is just unbolting and bolting stuff back on.

Quick list:

Set of pry bars
4 jack stands
jack
tranny jack
slidehammer set
big impact gun

 

[92ts1]

I have a 1g so my setup is a little different and easier. But I have done a few FWD 2g trannys. Honestly what was said about is about the easiest. Castles nuts are a pain. When I did the trannys I had to undo the lower control arms and slide the axle out of the hub. Didn't have to realign it thank god. I just use a jack to lower and raise my trannys... To get the axle out of the tranny just use a pry bar behind the cup closest to the tranny and push it out. Just like my car you will need to tilt the tranny a certain angle to get it in, or you could move the motor like suggested above, i just angle it..

 

[pboglio]

When you get the car up on jacks, stack 2 wheels up on each other sideways and place them under each side of the car. The amount of leverage you put on the car is going to be too much as your jacks will be at their full extended range.

I've never tried it but a HUGE time savings would be leaving the the driveshaft in place, draining the transfer case oil, then sliding the transfer case sideways to release the driveshaft splined input and supporting the driveshaft with a box or something.

 

[DeNoZZo]

thanks for the help guys. I sprained/jammed my right thumb earlier today wrestling my dad, so now it's going to be a real bi*** to do. But I appreciate the info.

 

[j-jamrod]

only remove the passenger side cv axle and the rest its very easy

 

[luv2rallye]

You don't have to remove the axels from the hubs at all. You also don't have to remove ANY ball joints! Just unbolt the 2 lower arms at the chassis end and remove the damper fork bolt and the entire assembly will swing out far enough to pull the axles out of the tranny (pry axle out the first inch with a flat blade screwdriver between the inner CV housing and tranny on each side of that housing 180 apart). Move tranny axle end out of tranny and down where it won't bump into anything.

Here the control arms, damper fork, and driveshaft are shown disconnected: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=142961&d=1343792826

 

[DeNoZZo]

You don't have to remove the axels from the hubs at all. You also don't have to remove ANY ball joints! Just unbolt the 2 lower arms at the chassis end and remove the damper fork bolt and the entire assembly will swing out far enough to pull the axles out of the tranny (pry axle out the first inch with a flat blade screwdriver between the inner CV housing and tranny on each side of that housing 180 apart). Move tranny axle end out of tranny and down where it won't bump into anything.

Yea, thats exactly how we did it. All came out fairly easy, was a mother getting it back in though. Once we got the mount lined up and the splines, everything else was just bolted back on. One thing worth mentioning to people who do this in the future is to plug the speed sensor hole once you remove the sensor. I about shit my pants when I dropped the rear trans mount bolt in the hole. Luckily, it came out with a magnet.


Drove the car for the first time today, and it all worked very smoothly. Clutch was a little mushy, but I think that's because it needs to be bled a little more.

 

[SnowBird]

Youre a 2G so I cant tell you exactly how to do it VS. my 1G AWD, but to simply pull the axles you would need to pop the axle nut (if you dont have an impact break the nut loose with someone jamming on the brakes inside the car or do it with the wheel still on), pull the rim, remove caliper, and pull the (2) bottom bolts on your strut where it bolts to the knuckle. Now you can push/pull on the control arm all you want. Then simply "pull/pry" to pop the axle out, on the driver side you will have to unbolt the actual carrier bearing of the axle from the block to get the shaft out.

This method works for most vehicles that I have worked on, and does for my 1G, but again I dont know for the 2G, I know you guys have funky upper control arms and $hit compared to my car.

 

[pboglio]

Anybody who has the tranny pulling short cuts down to a tee has pulled one too many trannies I'm on number 2 and never want to pull another, the novelty wore off after the first one.

 

[92ts1]

I've pulled my tranny 4 times in the last 5 months.. Sad but it needed to be done. Now I need another tranny...

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Let's see if I can count mine.

1- GS for clutch
2- GS for blown trans
3- White TSi for clutch
4-5-6 I pulled my tranny out of a 2g one night. Pulled the 1g's trans out to put it in there to find out it the 2g trans was bad. Pulled it back out that night and put my original trans back in the next day by noon. (10* weather in February!!)

That sucked!!

7- Whophlungpoo's CFDF clutch job
8- Out again since he forgot to shim the clutch pivot ball
9- Did a clutch job on a 96 GS-T for cash!

10-2g trans is rebuilt and ready to go back in my car. YAY!!

 

[vanilla gorilla]

Had mine out twice for clutch swaps. It really isnt that bad to do, Its just hard to find the drive to get started.
I do it in the driveway,with the car all the way up on jackstand and drop the tranny out the bottom with a floor jack. To put it back in, my home boy (who is a beast) muscles the tranny back into place.
Contrary to what others say, there is really no need for any kind of specialty tool. You dont need a tranny jack, slidehammer, impact gun, or anything like that. Ive built all my cars with basic craftsman handtools. The only non-basic handtool I have is a torque wrench.

 

[SnowBird]

Anybody who has the tranny pulling short cuts down to a tee has pulled one too many trannies I'm on number 2 and never want to pull another, the novelty wore off after the first one.

Not true, a lot of times I pull the tranny its for a minor problem I dont want to become a major one. Its really not bad at all once you do it a couple times, but then again I pull my whole engine to make most undercar jobs easier.

 

[Steve cannon]

I have a 98 gsx and I bought it a few days ago and the clutch fork pivot ball was broken on it. "That's what I was told" can someone help me out at all? The pedal goes all the way to the floor then to the right.

 

[luv2rallye]

Jack car up and look in front of tranny where the fork sticks out of a window. See if you can wiggle it all over the place - if so, the clutch fork pivot ball may be broken (or the fork is broken or the fork is no longer attached to the throw out bearing). You will have to pull the tranny to fix it.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachment...-fork-shimmed-pivot-ball-at-0-071-jpg.148436/

 

[Steve cannon]

Jack car up and look in front of tranny where the fork sticks out of a window. See if you can wiggle it all over the place - if so, the clutch fork pivot ball may be broken (or the fork is broken or the fork is no longer attached to the throw out bearing). You will have to pull the tranny to fix it.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachment...-fork-shimmed-pivot-ball-at-0-071-jpg.148436/

Can you give me a run down of what I need to have in order to drop the trans.. and what's the best way to do it? Yes I know there's alot of post's on here that tell you but that's the thing there's so many idk what to follow.. You can email me if its better that way but I have to fix it today and I've never done a transmission on a eclipse before.. Thank you for your help.. and yes it wiggles Like crazy and when I push in the clutch it goes all the way down then to the right.. And it don't like to go into gear at all..

 

[97_4g63t]

Can you give me a run down of what I need to have in order to drop the trans.. and what's the best way to do it? Yes I know there's alot of post's on here that tell you but that's the thing there's so many idk what to follow.. You can email me if its better that way but I have to fix it today and I've never done a transmission on a eclipse before.. Thank you for your help.. and yes it wiggles Like crazy and when I push in the clutch it goes all the way down then to the right.. And it don't like to go into gear at all..

I'm over pulling the tranny on its own. I pull the motor and tranny out together. I think it's way easier and you have more room to do whatever you need to. Great time to clean the engine bay up as well.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

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Follow all his videos (1-9 but you could skip a couple you'll see what I mean) and you'll be golden. Very detailed and even includes torque specs. It's not too hard you'll do great. Just make sure you clean everything before putting it all back in.

 

[luv2rallye]

Before you pull the tranny make sure it really is a broken fork or pivot ball because that would be rare (especially a pivot ball). Not that it hasn't ever happened, but someone would really have had to trash it by something like popping the clutch under full throttle a number of times with poor quality aftermarket parts, etc. Wouldn't want you doing all the work pulling the tranny to find out it's not it - pulling a tranny is a BIG job (don't let people on here fool you) - have you ever done one on any car? Make sure it's not a bad master cylinder, slave cylinder, pedal bracket, or something else first.

I'd recommend have a friend press the clutch pedal while you watch the slave cylinder and fork under the tranny to see if it moves correctly. And when the pedal is held all the way down, you shouldn't be able to move the fork at all (assuming it moved over like it's supposed to). If you can, then ya something's wrong there. Take a video of the fork movement and post it here.

Here's a Mitsubishi 4g63 tranny removal step by step guide (it's fwd but still usable - you've obviously got a transfer case with awd): http://www.columbusdsm.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16683.
If you do remove tranny, you don't have to remove the axels from the hubs at all (which is a real pain) - I've done this many times (see step 2 here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/wont-shift-into-1st-gear-picture.463935/#post-153268895).