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Proper head gasket install ??

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2GbRS

Probationary Member
20
0
Nov 28, 2009
washougal, Washington
Just got my head back from the machine shop. nice and clean, they took .006 off

have a new felpro MLS gasket to go on, copper spray to go along.

never done a head gasket before, first time so whats the best way to prep the block for the gasket to seal perfect? right now it's naaasty.

been reading on here for a while and no one says anything about how they cleaned it up just that it needs to be.

another thing is what side of the gasket does the copper spray go on? both side or just one?

I think my head gasket came with tq specs but if not anyone have em handy?
 
Just got my head back from the machine shop. nice and clean, they took .006 off

have a new felpro MLS gasket to go on, copper spray to go along.

never done a head gasket before, first time so whats the best way to prep the block for the gasket to seal perfect? right now it's naaasty.

been reading on here for a while and no one says anything about how they cleaned it up just that it needs to be.

another thing is what side of the gasket does the copper spray go on? both side or just one?

I think my head gasket came with tq specs but if not anyone have em handy?

clean the block with a scrapper, and clean it the best as possible, and use a cleaner like brake clean to wipe it down, (this is assuming the block is till in the car). Once its nice and clean, place the head gasket in place without spray, i strongly suggest you put the gasket on dry. And use the torque specs that come with the new gasket, they are created for that particular head gasket. This is assuming you want to do it right.
 
i did a cometic.i cleaned everything with acetone.i then sprayed both sides my gasket let it dry.also sprayed block and head let them dry.torque head and it worked great.i would seriously consider a water pump while you have it down that far.
 
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ive done 3 different headgaskets. one on a 94 1.8L eclipse. All without any copper spray. And they worked just fine.
 
If you have any air tools get one of those rubber gasket remover tools, if not, use a scraper but don't gouge the metal. Use brake cleaner or any solvent to get it perfectly clean before you put it together, and keep the crap from getting in the cylinders.
 
Hmm, good info. I think I'll ask my buddy that works on these for a living what he thinks. I hate asking my "mechanic" friends shit all the time. In my opinion, if it were the case that you don't use it cause you want the mls gasket to move, then why not just spray the block side so it gets a good seal.the machined head side is perfect so there's no need. in fact i think i remember now someone telling me to only spray one side. maybe that would be why.. either way, i'll ask my buddy and on go's the head tomorrow mourn. after a heavy cleaning of the block surface.
 
ok here is my input and this is coming from prople with 800 and plus hp cars. me and all of them spray out mls headgaskets with hi-temp engine spray them put the gasket on and the head then torque it to spec. all while it is still wet. you can call me a idiot but i also heard this come from a guy with a 2000hp mustang that is boosted one more time...THAT IS BOOSTED. so these are not just N/A cars with high compression although some are. and like i said yall all can call me a idiot or that i dont know what im talkin bout but i have done 2 motors like this including the one i am building now for my car. my best freinds eric and kenny have 2 boosted 6.0 chevy motors that they have done the same way.eric is making 800 to the rear wheels on stock internals in his mustang foxbody. but that is my 2 cents.:boring:
 
ok here is my input and this is coming from prople with 800 and plus hp cars. me and all of them spray out mls headgaskets with hi-temp engine spray them put the gasket on and the head then torque it to spec. all while it is still wet. you can call me a idiot but i also heard this come from a guy with a 2000hp mustang that is boosted one more time...THAT IS BOOSTED. so these are not just N/A cars with high compression although some are. and like i said yall all can call me a idiot or that i dont know what im talkin bout but i have done 2 motors like this including the one i am building now for my car. my best freinds eric and kenny have 2 boosted 6.0 chevy motors that they have done the same way.eric is making 800 to the rear wheels on stock internals in his mustang foxbody. but that is my 2 cents.:boring:

It's okay, no one's going to call you an idiot. The point of DSMtuners is to share information. With that said, I'm curious about your acquaintances' cars. Do the engines have blocks and heads made from two different metals? I know a lot of the older big block engines had iron blocks and heads, whereas a lot of newer engines have aluminum block and heads. I think the bulk of Doug's argument is that copper gasket spray shouldn't be used with an iron block and an aluminum head because they expand with heat at different rates.
 
Good read I've never come across, thanks Paul.

Dont use the MLS headgasket unless your block has been machined FLAT!!!!!! Use the stock felpro composite headgasket with ARP head studs torqued in 3 stages to 80lbs. I

stock 420a head gasket is an mls gasket :thumb: (at least now it is)
 
yes i understand about ## cast iron to cast iron but my two buddies kenyy and eric are running chevy fuel injected 6.0's. they are iron blocks with aluminum heads and the factory gasket is a mls gasket. also they run the well known ls1 and boost them on 10lbs and they also use mls headgaskets in the same way i said before by spraying them with engine enamel paint.the ls1 is aluminum block and head.
 
so i didn't spray the gasket. i cleaned the surface as clean as can be and put it on dry. it has a black rubberish layer on both sides of the gasket so i felt like putting copper spray on would hinder what it's there for. now all thats left is cams timing belt other belts and a few minor do dadds and i'm done.. nothing like stressing out for hours on end wondering if everything is gonna go together right. i torqued everything right so i hope the gasket doesn't leak. i'll be beyond pissed if it does.
 
I'm not sure about everyone else, but I just did my hg on my gs and the first time I sprayed the mls gasket with copper spray...leaked like a s.o.b. right after starting it up. Oil in coolant and the works. Needless to say, the next time I installed the mls gasket dry and haven't had a problem yet. Yes, I followed the revised torque sequence and used brand new oem headbolts.
 
well i've heard both ways alot, but in my opinion it already has the tacky black sealant on it."felpro mls" so it didn't make sense to put the spray on. but i'm not done putting it together yet. just picked up my anaerobic sealant tonight to torque the cam caps down. then i picked up a replacement bolt for the idler pulley. snapped the oem one off in the head. luckily i got it out

getting close to being done.
 
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