Project '95 TSi AWD; Questions.

[DSM IN MN]

Alright, this is a thread I am starting for my 1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD AT. I am going to use this thread as a place to ask questions I come up with about something in my car, how to do something or what have you.

Let the questions begin...

I have been stripping my car of its sound deadening as you can see from the pictures below.

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I have gotten here...

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..on both sides. The problem I am facing is this; I do not know what the black pad that goes across floor and up into the dash is for. It is covering some of the sound deadening so I cannot get to it to remove it. What I am asking is; does is serve any kind of purpose, or can I just cut it out?

Thank you.

 

[pj91gsx]

its most likely a rubber coating on the metal. probably helps prevent rust.

 

[BoostedBeater]

Its more sound deadening and insulation. You can take it out but chances are the passenger compartment will be a bit hotter without it.

 

[phizzalot]

Also heard that you can use dry ice on the sound deadning/rubber and it will make it a lot easier to use. Try it out.

 

[DSM IN MN]

its most likely a rubber coating on the metal. probably helps prevent rust.

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It is posible the top MAY be rubber but underneath is like a multiple fiber type fabric/blanket type material. My dad, the owner of the shop it is in, said it is for protections against a fire...is there would ever be one..

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It is posible the top MAY be rubber but underneath is like a multiple fiber type fabric/blanket type material. My dad, the owner of the shop it is in, said it is for protections against a fire...is there would ever be one..

Its more sound deadening and insulation. You can take it out but chances are the passenger compartment will be a bit hotter without it.

Insulation sounds the most buyable.. My problem is, it goes all the way up into the dash and is covered by the metal brace/seal for the steering wheel...shaft (I do not remember what its real name is, cut my some slack, haha). It also has lines and/or wire over it.. So the only thing I can think of is cutting it. But then again, you will have half of it up in your dash.

Also heard that you can use dry ice on the sound deadning/rubber and it will make it a lot easier to use. Try it out.

The sound deading is not a problem I just whip out the hammer if it even get's too tough and chizzle my way through. Also, almost ALL the sound deadening is out.. The little bit in the trunk, under the bak seat, under the seats, just under the dash remains.

Thank you for the info though. This will not be my last DSM, and that piece of information will help me in the future... Now I just need to find out where to get dry ice..

 

[DSM IN MN]

Like I said, I am using this thread for any and/or every question that I get about what I may do down the road.

I am building a 2.3 stroker for this thing. I am staying with the 7-bolt, and automatic (and yes, I do know I will need to build the trans.), but the one of the biggest problems I am faced with is: What rod and piston combo am I using? I was told by one friend of mine "JE/Manley combo, Clevite bearings (not a fan of ACL)" (I beams as well he was speaking of, not H beams), but then later told "Ross/Manley". Another friend said the following, "H beams, whatever piston that comes in the compression ratio you want, ACL tri metals, etc etc etc.".

Now I am a little lost as to where to look. One person says I beams, the other says H beams. I personally was THINKING about an Eagle/Wiesco combo. but one of the friends above mentioned "I've seen Wiesco take shits at 600 quite a few times." With that said, here is kind of my set-up I am planning for:

500-600HP, I have not made my mind up but I kind of want 6.
9:1 comp. ratio.
2.3 stroker, obviously.
Piston and rod combo is still being decided.
Forged crank (100mm, duh).
Built head with 272 and/or 280 cams. Ported I would hope.

Holset HX35/40
DSMlink V3
COP setup (not sure..?)
1450 injectors (E-85)
Mitsubishi / DSM IPT Custom High- Stall Torque Converter
Balance shaft elimator kit

That is not my whole to be mods list, it is bigger


Help me out guys! Thank you.

 

[DSM IN MN]

Alright, thanks for all the ideas and support/help! (sarcasm)

Does anyone know of a good replacement to the stock oil filter housing, that will best work with a 2.3 stroker? The car drips a good amount of oil now as it is and I just assume get a new one and upgrade while I am at it.. If anything, I can go back to OEM if I need to. Any ideas, or is this going to end like my last question (no answers what-so-ever)?

 

[2slow4utsi]

Alright, thanks for all the ideas and support/help! (sarcasm)

Does anyone know of a good replacement to the stock oil filter housing, that will best work with a 2.3 stroker? The car drips a good amount of oil now as it is and I just assume get a new one and upgrade while I am at it.. If anything, I can go back to OEM if I need to. Any ideas, or is this going to end like my last question (no answers what-so-ever)?

Go with a simple Eagle/Wiseco combo. Get a Mighty Max OFH. Why don't you do some research bro? All of your questions have been answered over 100x.

 

[Tanro]

I think, You would get more responses asking these questions in individual threads.

1) You can use compressed C02 cans on the foam and shit, and the glue. It works wonders.

2) I Would go with a Wiseco/Eagle Combo.

3) They do make a Forward Facing OFH you can get them from STM I believe. Really OEM is your best bet as I doubt you will find an aftermarket one. If your having leaking issues, take out the water cooling diaphragm. Block off the water lines, go to air cooling.