New 95 tsi awd

[Haytees]

Just got a 95 awd for 600 bucks...was running just needed a tie rod to drive.

front drivers fender is rolled and dented from the tire coming off, and it has some sunfade

power steering pump is bad and its running pretty rich hitting fuel cut at higher rpms

obd2 tested it and got 9 codes

p1103 waste gate actuator

p0136 heated o2 bank 1 sensor 2

p1500 alternator fr circuit or something

p1105 read only solenoid circuit

p0125 coolant temp always low

p0170 fuel trim bank

p0141 heater condition h02s12

p0443 evap purge/vent solenoid

p0403 egr system fault


okay and as for mods it has evo 3 exh mani and b16g, mbc set at 18lbs, greddy style bov capped of. 3inch turbo back straight pipe to muffler hard radiator hoses and a generic style intake + boost guage

cars runs solid and then starts hitting fuel cut in higher gears like 3rd/4th around 4-5000rpms

im looking up some of these codes and im getting mixed results.. like the wastegate one.. read some people get it because they hit fuel cut or some because the psi is over 16lbs

any tips in the direction i should try to go with getting these codes taken care of??

and was it a good buy for the car itself?

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[Breezio69]

Well if the vacuum lines corroded its probably safe to assume some seals could have corroded or split as well. I'd definately get that tee off the bov line and recirculate the bov to the intake.

One other suggestion, is if you wanted to do a vacuum delete. That would take away about 20 possible leaks in the system. The hardest part is removing the vacuum canister under the battery, because you must remove the battery and tray first. Technically you can leave it, but it makes it cleaner if you remove it, then you can drop the battery too.

 

[Haytees]

Well it looks like alot of them are already deleted, and its vented to the atmosphere but the hole on the intake is properly sealed

 

[Breezio69]

Its not the fact the intake is sealed... its the fact that metered air (air in the charge pipes after the mas) is being blown out of the system and not back into the motor.... please google it as its been cover 70000 times.

And it appears it has not had any sort of vac delete.

 

[Haytees]

Its not the fact the intake is sealed... its the fact that metered air (air in the charge pipes after the mas) is being blown out of the system and not back into the motor.... please google it as its been cover 70000 times.

And it appears it has not had any sort of vac delete.

i was judging by the caps on the intake manifold, and i understand its been covered ive read it also isnt that big of a deal besides it may die with the clutch in??

 

[Breezio69]

i was judging by the caps on the intake manifold, and i understand its been covered ive read it also isnt that big of a deal besides it may die with the clutch in??

Isn't this whole thread about getting your car running right? Hmmmm

Also, a vac delete should leave you with 4 lines. Valve cover to intake, pcv to manifold, manifold to bov, manifold to fuel pressure regulator. If you want to count the turbo to wastegate you can but that's a given. Anything else you can pull out.

Just trying to help, pulling the unnecessary stuff will take possibly leaks out of the equation.

 

[untouchablecc]

When a awd turbo dsm runs and drives well for 600$. YOU BUY IT. Thats not even a question. A stock engine can be sold for 400-500 provided it doesnt smoke and the trans can be sold for the same and 75$ for a tcase, 250$ for rear end. You just doubled your money if you didn't want to drive it. I know you don't want to part it and im not telling you too im just explaining how you really cant loose. Ive sold a clean shell for 700 so there ya go.

As far as hacked goes as long as its not all rotted out and they wiring harness isnt messed with then its pretty easy to un-halfass the mechanical stuff most of the time. That is a sweet find. I would do a compression test, full timing belt change with new pulleys and tensioner and drive it with a. Also change all your fluids out. You have no idea how many times ive drained out the rear end and the fluid looked like brown water from never being changed and it takes like 10 min. I did mine laying on the ground in the snow 1 day and it took me an hour to do trans t case and rear diff. Also change all the hoses out. Its not worth leaving an old crappy one on and blowing it going down the high way at 70 mph. Things get hot pretty quick on a 90 degree summer day.

 

[Haytees]

That tee goes from the bov to perrin mbc to what I believe is the wastegate

 

[Breezio69]

Hey man, got your message and all is well, I'm just trying to point out the obvious things I saw wrong

Best thing to do is the single line off the mani to bov. Then you may need to create your own boost source off the j pipe after the turbo to run to your mbc and then to the wastegate. The wally 255 and afpr are definately a step in the right direction, but AFTER you figure out why its cutting. I would (if it were me) run your wastegate directly off the j pipe to the wastegate for now and see how it responds to that.

Realistically you are on the verge of needing ways to tune. If you want the bigger boost, you need the gauges, wideband, at least safc and injectors to go along with your fuel pump, afpr and boost controller... as well as a logger.

Then you still have your apparent problems. Sounds like one or both of your o2 sensors are shot, egr valve is clogged or non functioning.

Throwing money at it like fuel mods and anything else that's not a step in getting it running right ( which it should run 100% before you upgrade) is just making a big mistake and will cause you more frustration than anything. I bought my car not running right just like you. Did my research and got things fixed slowly and now its running like its fresh off the lot in 95.... only with more power.

Keep your head up, you'll get it, search those codes out and start doing some diagnostics!